New Clutch Installed - Still Have To Mash To The Floor For A Clean Shift

koala33 · Jul 12, 2014

My throwout bearing was bad, so I replaced OEM clutch with Ram HDX, pilot/throwout bearings, and bearing housing. When I got the car back it shifted like a dream. I didn't have to mash the clutch all the way in for a clean shift. 24 hours later, it still feels like a new clutch but on occasion I have to put quite the effort in making sure the clutch is all the way pushed in - otherwise I can't get it into gear or it doesn't shift that smooth. Keep in mind I just had the new clutch put in yesterday. It still is much better than OEM - day and night. Need to figure out why sometimes I have a really hard time getting it into gear. Seems like 3rd may be specifically tough - but again it's not every time, or maybe I am pushing the clutch in with more and less pressure and that's what is going on.

Does this have anything at all to do with the shifter? I still have an OEM shifter.

I do have an SR clutch adjustor kit that I need to install. Just haven't got to it yet, or know exactly how. I am wondering if this will help? Maybe the quadrant is bad?

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

Noobz347 · Jul 12, 2014

You need a firewall adjuster to put pedal height where you want it.

jka · Jul 12, 2014

Installing the adjuster kit it will help..because the factory stuff just don't work with a performance clutch kit.

Noobz347 · Jul 12, 2014

jka said:
Installing the adjuster kit it will help..because the factory stuff just don't work with a performance clutch kit.

Agreed. Any pressure plate heavier than OEM spells eventual destruction of nearly ALL stock plastic quadrants and prawls.

If you still have this:

Then there's a good chance that it's your problem. If it's NOT your problem then it will become one very soon.

omarimoe · Jul 13, 2014

I have an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster and my car still feels like I have to mash the clutch to the floor to get a clean shift. Have you checked to see if your cable has stretched? My buddy had his stretch on him after a new clutch install and all the adjustments in the world couldn't have fixed it.

stykthyn · Jul 13, 2014

Ditto on the stretch

koala33 · Jul 13, 2014

So this will fix the problem more than likely? I am on vacation, but when I get back I am going to try and install. If the cable is stretched, this is the cable that will replace, right? Or is there another? I think I read I have to lay upside down under my seat to get this put in..

jka · Jul 13, 2014

Take the seat out to install your kit...it will be easy to install that way. Also you will not pull any muscles like i did when i installed mine.

jrichker · Jul 14, 2014

jka said:
Take the seat out to install your kit...it will be easy to install that way. Also you will not pull any muscles like i did when i installed mine.

Yes, do take the seat out: most of us aren't made out of rubber like Gumby...

It's like 4 bolts and move the fuel pump relay out of the way if your car was made before 1992. The 92 and later cars don't have the fuel pump relay under the seat. Put a board or several layers of cardboard over the 2 studs that anchor the front of the seat mounts. This will help prevent the studs from poking you in the back while you wrestle with the quadrant and cable.

Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs. preload on the clutch cable.

Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.

Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit

[url=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDA-555-7021/]Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40

[/url]

koala33 · Jul 14, 2014

I got the SR Performance Clutch Adjuster from American Muscle. Will this work? Thanks so much for the write up.

jrichker said:
Yes, do take the seat out: most of us aren't made out of rubber like Gumby...

It's like 4 bolts and move the fuel pump relay out of the way if your car was made before 1992. The 92 and later cars don't have the fuel pump relay under the seat. Put a board or several layers of cardboard over the 2 studs that anchor the front of the seat mounts. This will help prevent the studs from poking you in the back while you wrestle with the quadrant and cable.

Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs. preload on the clutch cable.

Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.

Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit

Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40

koala33 · Jul 25, 2014

This is getting fixed today. need one last piece of advice. should I just try replace the quadrant since most people say oem cable is best? at this point engaging clutch with the pedal isn't doing much anymore. I'm shifting without a clutch.
Had new clutch put in 2 weeks ago but cable and quadrant is still oem. how do I know if it is just the quadrant is bad? I have the SR kit from AM... Ideas? i gotta do this today...

koala33 · Jul 25, 2014

I just don't want to put the SR cable in and it snap after a few weeks. Does ford carry oem cable??

koala33 · Jul 25, 2014

Seems like the quadrant replacement with the springs are the crappy part.

Noobz347 · Jul 25, 2014

Use your OEM cable.

koala33 · Jul 25, 2014

So its the quadrant then? Do you think my oem may be stretched? Iit only has 33k miles to it

koala33 · Jul 25, 2014

When I try to self adjust I get to clicking noises or anything. nothing happens. There is a small plastic piece under the pedal with a plastic slider. I clicked that back and when I engage the clutch it went back of course. should I try to adjust at the bell housing? bottom line is, with clutch fully pushed in, car starts moving when I let out about half an inch. t
This doesn't really explain why I am having a hard time hitting gears. I don't get it. I know I need to replace quadrant but I am wondering if they didn't adjust correctly at the bell housing when they put on new clutch

koala33 · Jul 25, 2014

Please help I have to get this fixed asap. If replacing quadrant is the immediate answer then I'll do that but my pedal seems fine it just seems like an adjustment problem

Bullitt347 · Jul 25, 2014

Re-read jrichker's post #9. It already has all of your questions answered.

Noobz347 · Jul 25, 2014

You probably don't need a new cable if your current one is OEM. Cable stretch doesn't really mean much once you have a firewall adjuster installed.

stangr5oh · Jul 25, 2014

Who put the clutch and TOB/PB in your car when this first happened? You or a shop? And did you have this problem before you had the clutch install?

New Clutch Installed - Still Have To Mash To The Floor For A Clean Shift

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