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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

New dizzy stiff to rotate

  • Thread starter Thread starter hssnpny
  • Start date Start date Oct 11, 2008

hssnpny

Member
May 30, 2002
49
0
7
SoCal
Oct 11, 2008
#1
  • Oct 11, 2008
  • #1
I just picked up a rebuilt dizzy from AZ, had old and new on the bench comparing that they are the same part, and noticed the old dizzy spins very freely, while the rebuilt does not. It isn't like it takes a wrench to turn it, but I feel resistance. Should it be stiff to turn since it just got rebuilt? Or is that a sign that something isn't right?

Thanks.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Oct 11, 2008
#2
  • Oct 11, 2008
  • #2
I would not be comfy with a really resistive one. I would swap it in, or at least compare it with other dizzies at the parts house.
 

desertcox05

New Member
Oct 3, 2007
379
0
0
south atlanta
Oct 13, 2008
#3
  • Oct 13, 2008
  • #3
i agree also. tack it back and get one that spins more freely
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
Oct 13, 2008
#4
  • Oct 13, 2008
  • #4
I don't think it should just spin freely. I've never had a distributor do that. Even my MSD one with bearings doesn't do that. I would expect some tightness from new bushings. It may be worth while to get a couple drops of oil on the bushings to make sure they aren't dry. On a side note, not to related, make sure you have the right pinion if you got a new one . . . always worth checking.
 

hssnpny

Member
May 30, 2002
49
0
7
SoCal
Oct 16, 2008
#5
  • Oct 16, 2008
  • #5
Sigh . . . on to the next issue

The rotational stiffness seems to be normal, as I compared to others at AZ.

So I thought I'm good to go, went to stick the dizzy in the hole, but didn't get very far. The first round part of the housing of the dizzy starts into the hole in the block, but binds up after about 1/4". It's not that it's hitting the oil pump drive shaft, as I can try the orig dizzy, and it drops in further before it hits the shaft. I went back to AZ and got another dizzy, and same exact issue. Before I take a file to try and size down the housing, is there any known reason for this, like slightly diff models of dizzy out there? As far as I can tell the rebuilt dizzy is the right part, as all measurements are the same, and the casted ford part number on the dizzy housing is the same. I've measured the round part of the housing that's binding with a rule, and it looks the same, so it's probably only a few thousandths off.

Or, is there someplace I can take (send) my orig to be rebuilt? I don't really wanna mess with it.

Thanks
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Oct 16, 2008
#6
  • Oct 16, 2008
  • #6
At a min, you need to use a Vernier caliper to compare the dimensions.

If it requires more than light hitting with an emery cloth, something is wrong. I'd not want to grind or clearance anything.

A ma and pa electrical shop might be able to rebuild yours. I'd consider a new aftermarket piece if that's the case (you might have some kind of fitment issues again but at least you're getting a new dizzy).
 
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