New Dyno sheet...!!!

Yellow2002GT · Jun 12, 2006

Well I junked the Pro-M 80MM Maf and went back to the C&L 85MM Maf....Cut the Power Pipe and put the MAF back in the engine bay and routed the filter back to the fenderwell.....Also made a custom heat sheild that rocks! Will post up some pics soon.............Overall the Outside temp was 102 deg and the humidity was low but it is running extreemly well! Heres the Numbers......263rwhp and 293rwtq......The air fuel was way low due to the heat. The car still managed a 13.03 at 103 in 91 deg weather!
View attachment 463188

Crzyhrse · Jun 12, 2006

What mods have you done???

Yellow2002GT · Jun 12, 2006

Here my mod list.....putting in VT stage II cams and Typhoon intake when it gets here!

ENGINE:
- STOCK 4.6L SOHC MOTOR
- AFM 4" POWER PIPE/ K&N FILTER
- BBK 75MM THROTTLE BODY
- BBK UNDERDRIVE PULLEYS
- BBK 1 5/8 LONG TUBE CERAMIC HEADERS
- C&L 85MM MASS AIR CALIBRATED FOR 24LBS INJECTORS
- SVT 24LB INJECTORS
- CUSTOM SCT DYNO TUNE (264RWHP/304RWTQ)
- MEIZURE ELECTRIC WATER PUMP
- PLASMA BOOSTER IGNITION
- ACCUFAB PLENUM
- 1/2IN PHANOLIC INTAKE SPACER
- 2.5IN EXHAUST WITH FLOWMASTER AND CUSTOM X-PIPE
- AEM'S WIDEBAND UEGO CONTROLLER
- BBK TIMING ADJUSTER
- STEEDA CATCH CAN
- 180 DEG POWER STAT
- STEEDA 190LPH FUEL PUMP (BOSH)
- STEEDA HIGH FLOW FUEL FILTER

DRIVETRAIN:
- AODE 4R70W TRANSMISSION
- TRANSGO SHIFT KIT
- 410 GEARS
- 3200 PI TORQUE CONVERTER
- RACE CONCEPTS SLOTTED/DRILLED ROTORS
- HAWK PERFORMANCE BRAKE PADS
- FRPP ALUMINUM DRIVE SHAFT
- FRPP FRONT C SPRINGS
- STEEDA ALUMINUM LCA’S

INTERIOR:
- CUSTOM PAINTED INSERTS
- YMR REAR SEAT DELETE KIT
- X2C FRONT RACING SEATS

EXTERIOR:
- EAGLE 17X9 ALUMINUM RIMS
- MT DR'S (27540R17 OUT BACK)
- FUTURA (24540R17 UP FRONT)

FUTURE MODS:
- TYPHOON LOWER INTAKE - LEVEL II 4R70W
- VT STAGE II CAMS - 75-90 SHOT
- COBRA R HOOD

Crzyhrse · Jun 12, 2006

That's quite the laundry list. Seems like you should be about 25 more horsepower than that. The heat and rich condition?

Oops. I guess I thought you had cams too.

loosescrew79 · Jun 12, 2006

Those are some good #s.
That is one pretty long mod list.

billfisher · Jun 12, 2006

auto hurts

Yellow2002GT · Jun 12, 2006

Crzyhrse said:
That's quite the laundry list. Seems like you should be about 25 more horsepower than that. The heat and rich condition?

Oops. I guess I thought you had cams too.

Yea....with the cams and intake I should be around 305 hp and 310 tq....... I am just curious what the power and torque curves are gonna look like after the install......hopeing to hold on to the power to around 290 at 6100rpms......It should deffinately make this a low 12 sec street stang in street trim! My tranny and rear end are shot right now also....so I don't know how much power it is robbing! Should have the installs and repairs done by mid July.......Ohh and the cams and springs install is only 350.00....I couldn't believe it!

"ED"

BooWFO · Jun 13, 2006

Ok why you running a TA and a SCT dyno tune?
Also why did you go up to 24lb injectors?
Don't forget to give us a full review of that intake when you get it.

csledd · Jun 13, 2006

bigger pic of the dyno sheet? lol

Yellow2002GT · Jun 13, 2006

BooWFO said:
Ok why you running a TA and a SCT dyno tune?
Also why did you go up to 24lb injectors?
Don't forget to give us a full review of that intake when you get it.

Well I got the 24lb'ers out of a wrecked 01 cobra......Guy was parting out the car and got them for 40 bucks! The timing adjuster was there before the SCT tune but can still use it if I decide to run over 100 octane! I can still bump the timing up another 4-5 deg with some better fuel.....But really no need to I guess....not worth spending the time and money on the race gas I guess but just an option! But with the 24lbs injectors it will suit my needs better with ported heads and the engine rebuild I have planed later on down the road. Plus a 75 shot will go on too after I replace the Intake. Going with a custom head port and a big bore block! Looking for 230-240 hp later on down the road.....after car is fully paid off!

"ED"

hotmustang331 · Jun 13, 2006

^ 230-240 is alot to expect out of a fully built 2V.

Anyways, nice #s man, and good luck with everything . And thats a GREAT price on install too

BooWFO · Jun 13, 2006

No doubt if install was that cheap around here I might not think about doing it myself.
I was wondering I was going to leave my TA on there but went with the xcal2 and said forget it I yanked it off and sold it.

Yellow2002GT · Jun 13, 2006

Well I was going to take the TA off and my Tuner said that the timing was dead on and not too egressive.....Told me with some good fuel I can still bump it up a bit! Its currently tuned to run 91 octane!

"ED"

Yellow2002GT · Jun 13, 2006

hotmustang331 said:
^ 230-240 is alot to expect out of a fully built 2V.

Anyways, nice #s man, and good luck with everything . And thats a GREAT price on install too

LMAO...Oppss! I meant 330-340! lol Guess I better start proof reading my own posts! lol

"ED"

JayC · Jun 13, 2006

The best I can tell from the tiny pic is that these are STD corrected not SAE corrected. Your SAE corrected numbers will be 5-10 rwhp lower in most cases.
SAE is the standard that most everyone goes by.
Jay

hotmustang331 · Jun 13, 2006

Yea I know a guy that has a forged 284 (bored iron block) 2V, VT stg 2 heads, custom VT cams (between STG 2 and STG 3), P51 intake and all the boltons.....he puts down 330RWHP.

hotmustang331 · Jun 13, 2006

JayC said:
The best I can tell from the tiny pic is that these are STD corrected not SAE corrected. Your SAE corrected numbers will be 5-10 rwhp lower in most cases.
SAE is the standard that most everyone goes by.
Jay

Well actually SAE corrects power for "normal" conditions. Thats somewhere around 60-65*s I think. So him being in 102* weather, SAE would actually make his #s higher .

uhoh5.0 · Feb 13, 2007

Why did you go from the Pro-M to the C&L mass air meter? And why did you put the Mass air sensor back in the engine bay? I thought that one of the main reasons the "powerpipe" worked so well is because it keeps the MAF sensor out of the hot engine bay. And the C&L with factory electronics is better than the Pro-M? The reason I ask, is because I got a good deal on a "powerpipe" and I'm going to try it versus my C&L setup that keeps the air filter and MAF sensor in the engine bay. Also, the C&L has a lot of bends in it as to allow you to use the stock air box if you desire. Thats another reason why I thought the "powerpipe" might be better due to the fact that it has a larger diameter and has smoother bends. One of the main reasons I'm trying this is because my car REALLY gets heat soaked in the summer and I suspect some of that is from the effects of the underhood temps on the MAF. I've added a 180* t-stat and my fans come on early too, so that also should help. Right now I am using the stock MAF sensor, but I will have to upgrade if I use the "powerpipe". Let me know your theories.
Thanks

Stan Weiss · Feb 13, 2007

hotmustang331 said:
Well actually SAE corrects power for "normal" conditions. Thats somewhere around 60-65*s I think. So him being in 102* weather, SAE would actually make his #s higher .

The question is which SAE correction calculation was used. The old SAE J607 uses 60 degrees 29.92 in Hg. The standard used by FORD now is SAE J1349 June 1990 and uses 77 degrees and 29.31 in Hg. See page 61 Ford racing performance parts 2006 catalog.

four six · Feb 14, 2007

nice #'s man

Auto and the 4.10s hurt though. Cams and intake should kick ya past the 300 mark

New Dyno sheet...!!!

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