Title was a mouthful but it everything I want to know in a nutshell. Got the car on the dyno today and my A/F ratio was very very bad, in the 10's bad. Dropping the fuel pressure down to 34psi or so allowed me to jump into the 11's, but still very rich. Besides messing with the fuel pressure or swapping the MAF, is there anything I can check? Car does only have about 200 miles or so on it, does the computer need more time to learn? Any input would be great. Thanks!
New engine, A/F ratio is very rich, what are some common fixes or things to check?
- Thread starter Andres2882
- Start date
When you dynoed:
What the motor heat soaked (warmed up)?
Was the hood open or closed?
Have you pulled codes?
These are things that initially come to mine as I read your post. The EEC being stuck in open loop with 30lb injectors may be a possible cause. Though you can often run that large of an injector with the stock EEC, many things need to be right in order for the EEC to trim fuel down to normal levels. That aside, you may discover down the line that an EEC tuner of some sort may be required to get your AFR where it needs to be. An Anderson PMS (though pricey) can be used to trim the fuel back through the usable range to bring things back to where they need to be (assuming that you intend to run with adaptive control and the EEC is currently able to get into that mode). For now, I'll stop right there. In order to not get off on a rant that may not apply, please answer the questions above so that we can offer better suggestions and a possible cure.
What the motor heat soaked (warmed up)?
Was the hood open or closed?
Have you pulled codes?
These are things that initially come to mine as I read your post. The EEC being stuck in open loop with 30lb injectors may be a possible cause. Though you can often run that large of an injector with the stock EEC, many things need to be right in order for the EEC to trim fuel down to normal levels. That aside, you may discover down the line that an EEC tuner of some sort may be required to get your AFR where it needs to be. An Anderson PMS (though pricey) can be used to trim the fuel back through the usable range to bring things back to where they need to be (assuming that you intend to run with adaptive control and the EEC is currently able to get into that mode). For now, I'll stop right there. In order to not get off on a rant that may not apply, please answer the questions above so that we can offer better suggestions and a possible cure.
Well it seems that you are in need of either a custom tune or EEC tuner then. Having a meter calibrated for specific sized injectors is not the final answer to tuning. The EEC still expects 19lb injectors and is programed for pulsewidth, breakpoint, and min and max orifice expectations for stock injectors.
One other thing that you may want to try before spending huge money on an EEC tuner is reclocking your meter to see if things improve or get worse. Just loosen and rotate the thing to try several different orientations of the electronics to see what differences it makes.
One other thing that you may want to try before spending huge money on an EEC tuner is reclocking your meter to see if things improve or get worse. Just loosen and rotate the thing to try several different orientations of the electronics to see what differences it makes.
Andres2882 said:
It's one of the possibilities when you talk about taking the electronics from a stock meter, screw it into a metal tube, and try to fool the EEC by varying the amount of air that reaches the meter element.
ProM meters on the other hand, are calibrated electronically instead of putting a smaple tube infront of the meter element. It's a bit more precise. It's that sampling tube that you're using that gives "reclocking" the meter the potential to work for you. All you're doing is changing the flow pattern of air before it hits the tube. May work for ya or may not. Worth a try though.
If the meter itself has adjustable pots on it, then yours will be the first I've seen or heard about. I've got a basic understanding of how extenders such as the Anderson unit operate, but couldn't say one way or another how well the adjustable meter you've got will function. It's may be in your best interest to try rotating your C&L before you swap in another unknown quantity (this other meter).
I've never seen the Optimizer function right on a meter, usually it is a seperate additon. I had decent success with a 76mm C&L but I did have to clock it around to get it perfect, also ran it with a stock airbox. I switched to a 80mm Pro-M and the car had smoother TQ and HP curves on the dyno and made a few more as well.
The Meter may fix and reading issues you are having a chip will help all around possible to get everything working together. I would buy a tuner before I would buy a chip, then as you make changes you do not have to get a re-burn.
SCT has some decent packages out as far as tunable chips, and they really are not all the expensive.
Andrew, I replied to all your e-mails
The Meter may fix and reading issues you are having a chip will help all around possible to get everything working together. I would buy a tuner before I would buy a chip, then as you make changes you do not have to get a re-burn.
SCT has some decent packages out as far as tunable chips, and they really are not all the expensive.
Andrew, I replied to all your e-mails
Andres2882 said:
Fix the code 22!!!
Code 22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range. The MAP or BARO sensor is pretty much the same sensor for both Mass Air & Speed Density cars. The main difference is where it is connected. Mass Air cars vent it to the atmosphere, while Speed Density cars connect it to the intake manifold vacuum. Its purpose is to help set a baseline for the air/fuel mixture by sensing changes in barometric pressure. The MAP or BAP sensor puts out a 5 volt square wave that changes frequency with variations in atmospheric pressure. The base is 154 HZ at 29.92" of mercury - dry sunny day at sea level, about 68-72 degrees. You need an oscilloscope or frequency meter to measure it.
The MAP/BARO sensor is mounted on the firewall behind the upper manifold.
Baro or MAP test using frequency meter - run the test key on engine off. The noise from the ignition system will likely upset the frequency meter. I used a 10 x oscilloscope probe connected from the frequency meter to the MAP/BAP to reduce the jitter in the meter's readout.
If it is defective, your air/fuel ratio will be off and the car’s performance & emissions will suffer
ooooohhhhh you have the pro m meter with the dials on it??? It's the optmizer version with it built into the sensor.
Rare, very rare. I tried for like 2 years to get one. My dumass fell asleep on one when it was going off on ebay.
My buddy BD has a couple at his shop, and he will NOT part with any of them.
That's the best one to have.
Change the C&L, you seem to be a bit over injectored, which is ok, just not with a c&l meter.
If you switch to the pro m, you will likely be a bit rich at idle still, but no big deal. Just don't stand behind the car too long admiring your cam.
Rare, very rare. I tried for like 2 years to get one. My dumass fell asleep on one when it was going off on ebay.
My buddy BD has a couple at his shop, and he will NOT part with any of them.
That's the best one to have.
Change the C&L, you seem to be a bit over injectored, which is ok, just not with a c&l meter.
If you switch to the pro m, you will likely be a bit rich at idle still, but no big deal. Just don't stand behind the car too long admiring your cam.
jrichker said:
Well, my A/F ratio is off and my performance is suffering. I'm going to take a look at this right away.
Update: I guess the connection being unplugged would not allow it to function properly?
Thanks JR!
-----
I wasn't aware that my Optimizer Pro-M MAF was so desireable, interesting very interesting. I'd always thought it left more room open for human error, ie the dialing in yourself, and couldn't truly be trusted?
Ok, it seems the plastic clamps that hold the sensor on are a bit weak and probably are what allowed it to come undone, going to tape that up.
Now, when I was getting it dyno'd, the fuel pressure was adjusted to pull the A/F out of the 10s. It was bumped down to 35ish psi. Should I just leave that be for now and allow the computer to adapt, or should I increase the fuel pressure?
Now, when I was getting it dyno'd, the fuel pressure was adjusted to pull the A/F out of the 10s. It was bumped down to 35ish psi. Should I just leave that be for now and allow the computer to adapt, or should I increase the fuel pressure?
Similar threads
