Yeah I apprecaite it. I'm just starting to be afraid I don't have any compression. How hard should it be to turn the motor with a breakerbar and a socket?
Yes! I once worked on an old 68 Cutlass I bought for 200 bucks. I was about to throw a hammer through ALL the windows when my cousin came and helped me out. Turns out I had it 180* out, everything lined up, but I was at the top of the exhaust stroke, I didn't realize there was a difference (I was 17).
Anyway, whent he screwdriver just starts to come up on #1 cylinder, take it out and put your finger over the spark plug hole and feel for pressure pushing your fingure away. On the compression stroke both the exhaust and intake valves are closed and this is the stroke you want. On the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is open so no air will try to escape past your finger.
We don't think you an idiot. We all know too well that no matter how knowledgable you are with these cars, there's always some stupid little thing that'll bite you in the hind quarters!
Yeah, I've tried it both ways. I just took all the plugs out, cleaned them, dried them. Blew the cylinders dry with air, and restabbed the dizzy. Stabbed it both ways. Still not a bit of difference.
I'm done, I don't know what else to try. It;s getting towed to a shop on Monday I guess.
Is it possible to compression test a motor that hasn't even run yet? I wouldn't think so since the rings haven't seated yet, but I'm not sure. I've never had to comp test a new motor, only old ones.
even with low compression, the motor would still try to start at least. You'd hear it wanting to fire up. it'd have to have almost zero compression to be a problem like that.
Yes. I'd open it up where the throttle body is and spray some right into the throttle body, then put the air intake back on the throttle body and give her a shot. I think even if you are 180* out of time, it'll still try to start. It'll let you know your problem is elsewhere.
I'll get some and try it
No difference at all with the starting fluid. Something is wrong somewhere, I just don't know where else to look.
Just a thought, is the TFI module plugged in? That is about the only other electronic piece in the ignition circuit that hasn't been referenced.
you sure it's just not way out of time?
here's a pic of mine.
comparing mine and Mark's(the_mustang) picture,your's is in a different position.
see the tab on the cap(yellow arrow),our's is to the right of the green line,your's is up front.
mine is a reman from autozone with an MSD cap and rotor,set to 10*BTDC.
could try setting the engine to TDC again,use the intake manifold bolt as a referance and re-stab the dizzy.
hope this helps alittle.
good luck.
Mine did the exact same thing after my engine re-build, turns out i had the dizzy out 180*(even though i checked and verified it twcie while on the engine stand), re-stabbed it and still no go. So i put the timing light on it and checked the timing during cranking, and lo and behold it was so far retarded it wouldnt fire, gave it a quick twist and it fired right up.
Put a timing light on it and get someone to crank it over while you check, and dont forget about pulling the SPOUT,
Jay
How'd you tell the dizzy was out 180? I've tried the thumg method, screwdriver method, all different types and can't verify which stroke i'm on. Plus I just found out my timing indicator is bent, so I'm not sure exactly where the point is.
Just a thought, is the TFI module plugged in? That is about the only other electronic piece in the ignition circuit that hasn't been referenced.
hey, I brought up the TFI!It's remote mounted on the fender side
Problem is I can't feel any air coming out of the #1 plug hole. So I guess it's time to start taking it back apart. The only part I didn't assemble myself was the shortblock, and that was straight from Ford. Maybe a bad ring. Dunno.
I would toss a compression tester on there first before you start rippin and tearin. You mentioned you replaced the valve springs, could there be someway the valves are stuck open enough to allow compression loss? im swingin pretty far with that, but it really could be anything. if you have spark and fuel your missing some air somewhere.
Even if the the dizzy was out 180, it would still fart and pop, Mine did atleast. It was farting and popping out of the exhaust.
Did you somehow have a major brain fart and forget the push-rods? how about cam timing? did you run it straight up? Rockers tourqed down properly?
I would toss a compression tester on there first before you start rippin and tearin. You mentioned you replaced the valve springs, could there be someway the valves are stuck open enough to allow compression loss? im swingin pretty far with that, but it really could be anything. if you have spark and fuel your missing some air somewhere.
Even if the the dizzy was out 180, it would still fart and pop, Mine did atleast. It was farting and popping out of the exhaust.
Did you somehow have a major brain fart and forget the push-rods? how about cam timing? did you run it straight up? Rockers tourqed down properly?
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