New guy here.

HDTony · Oct 15, 2010

Picking up a relatively stock 6 cyl 65 coupe this weekend. As expected I have a lot of questions

Can anyone point me in the right direction on a good power disc brake conversion kit to replace the manual drums in front?
Also I'm assuming there is a good article on the ideal power setup for a 289 build, did some searching and didn't get a very narrowed down result.

2+2GT · Oct 15, 2010

Can anyone point me in the right direction on a good power disc brake conversion kit to replace the manual drums in front?
Sure- Use the Master Power Brake repro master with the dual cylinder on it, excellent function and works with auto or stock manual trans. Glazier/Nolan uses them on PB conversions, with excellent results. For front disc brakes on your 65 200, use the Scarebird disc brake conversion. Inexpensive and easy, and you can keep your stock wheels.

Also I'm assuming there is a good article on the ideal power setup for a 289 build, did some searching and didn't get a very narrowed down result.
Here's the best piece of advice you'll ever get. If you really want a V8 engine, sell that car and buy a V8 Mustang. Converting from 6 to 8 cylinder will require you to replace everything but the body and seats.

Either install the MPB booster and Scarebird brakes, plus convert the car to a T5 5-speed and enjoy (personally I'd also put headers and stock GT dual exhaust on it, too) or sell it and get the V8 you seem to want.

HDTony · Oct 15, 2010

Seriously, is it really that bad? Already planning on a different trans, may as well do a driveshaft and 9 inch, what else are you thinking about I'd need to replace?

2+2GT · Oct 15, 2010

I swear I'm gonna do a cut-and-paste link on this someday. To convert a 64-66 cylinder Mustang to V8, you need to replace:

Engine
Transmission
Engine Mounts
Driveshaft
Rear axle assembly complete
Rear brakes
Rear springs
Exhaust system
Front-to-rear fuel line
Front spindles
Front springs
Sway bar
Front brakes
Inner & outer tie rod ends & adjusters
Center link
Idler Arm
Pitman arm
Radiator and hoses
Engine wiring harness
Throttle pedal and linkage

Some other stuff I forgot.

If you're planning on changing the trans, how about a nice 5-speed on the engine you have? Then you don't have to replace all that other stuff.

10secgoal · Oct 15, 2010

If your restoring the car, you have to replace 90% that anyways. So, even if you had a V8 to start with and decide on new exhaust, intake, carb,etc, then you would have bought it either way. If the car is straight and minimal rust, I'd keep it. Harder and harder to find a nice one now a days. An added bonus is the 6 cyl don't have years of abuse on the bodies like the original V-8 cars, and the initial investment is cheaper for a 6'er.

PoppyMod · Oct 15, 2010

HDTony said:
Seriously, is it really that bad? Already planning on a different trans, may as well do a driveshaft and 9 inch, what else are you thinking about I'd need to replace?

let me add:
Why does everyone think they need a 9" rear assy? If it's a track car maybe, if it's a street warrior, no!
Why waste your money on that. Put that dough into the best "heads" and matching cam! I guarantee more return on the dollar.
Happy Motoring!

HDTony · Oct 15, 2010

That's the nice thing this car is from Arizona with very minimal rust underneath which is extremely rare here in Chicago where our local road crews salt the heck out of our roads.

2+2, thanks for the list, looks good, I can see where the frustatrauon comes in from newbs, I own a motorcycle forum as well I see it all the time. Although it doesbt seen that bad. Especially since the foundation of this car us is so solid, which is rare in my neck of the woods.

Poppy, what rear end do you suggest, I am new to ford, I fully expected having to swap out the rear. Justness guessing that 9" was the way to go because like you said that's what you always hear about.

HDTony · Oct 15, 2010

Oh and sorry about my spelling, damn iPhone is constantly auto correcting and I can't scroll back up with the iPhone template thats running here

afreejack · Oct 15, 2010

The car I have was originally a 200 6 cylinder with a 4speed (based on the VIN). The previous owner put in an 82 302 with a T5 5 speed from a 94. He changed the motor mounts. He also put a different water pump on the car so it would fit up to a 66 V-8 radiator (inlet and outlet on the same side). As a result of the water pump, I had to make new timing marks because the water pump inlet covered them. (just a small example of the things I've had to do).

Since I've had the car I've had to replace most of the items on the list that 2+2 provided because they were for the 6 cylinder and couldn't handle it, or the PO threw a bunch of parts together and tried to make them fit. (mostly the latter one)

At least in your case, you know what you are starting with. These guys here have been helping me a lot in the progress on mine. Good luck in your build.

2+2GT · Oct 15, 2010

HDTony said:
Poppy, what rear end do you suggest, I am new to ford, I fully expected having to swap out the rear. Justness guessing that 9" was the way to go because like you said that's what you always hear about.

Interestingly, the 8" is the exact same design as the 9", the difference is the size of the ring gear. They even share some parts, such as the spider and axle gears. The strength of the design comes from the third bearing on the pinion gear, even the Ford 8.8 and GM 12-bolt don't have this.

Currie makes a reproduction 8" Traction-Loc, with 4 spider gears, not 2, and better steel than OEM. Basically, it's supposed to be stronger than run-of-the-mill 9" rears.

PoppyMod · Oct 16, 2010

HDTony said:
That's the nice thing this car is from Arizona with very minimal rust underneath which is extremely rare here in Chicago where our local road crews salt the heck out of our roads.

2+2, thanks for the list, looks good, I can see where the frustatrauon comes in from newbs, I own a motorcycle forum as well I see it all the time. Although it doesbt seen that bad. Especially since the foundation of this car us is so solid, which is rare in my neck of the woods.

Poppy, what rear end do you suggest, I am new to ford, I fully expected having to swap out the rear. Justness guessing that 9" was the way to go because like you said that's what you always hear about.

If your ride is a street car making 400 or less RWTQ and street tires, then, You'll be just fine with the FORD 8" rear assy. Just renew the wear 'n tear items. A logical ratio is going to depend on your engine build, tranny, and cruising speeds.
I run a trac-loc 3.55 with a T5z and BFG tires. My 70 mph Rs are about 2000.
With this combo, my 4th gear is a real "bad-arse" passing gear.

Happy Motoring!

HDTony · Oct 16, 2010

2+2GT said:
Interestingly, the 8" is the exact same design as the 9", the difference is the size of the ring gear. They even share some parts, such as the spider and axle gears. The strength of the design comes from the third bearing on the pinion gear, even the Ford 8.8 and GM 12-bolt don't have this.

Currie makes a reproduction 8" Traction-Loc, with 4 spider gears, not 2, and better steel than OEM. Basically, it's supposed to be stronger than run-of-the-mill 9" rears.

PoppyMod said:
If your ride is a street car making 400 or less RWTQ and street tires, then, You'll be just fine with the FORD 8" rear assy. Just renew the wear 'n tear items. A logical ratio is going to depend on your engine build, tranny, and cruising speeds.
I run a trac-loc 3.55 with a T5z and BFG tires. My 70 mph Rs are about 2000.
With this combo, my 4th gear is a real "bad-arse" passing gear.

Happy Motoring!

The 8in trac-loc sounds like a great way to go, I was also thinking of gearing it somewhere around 3.5-3.75. Usually just about right.

What kind of cost is one looking at for rear end setup?

PoppyMod · Oct 16, 2010

HDTony said:
The 8in trac-loc sounds like a great way to go, I was also thinking of gearing it somewhere around 3.5-3.75. Usually just about right.

What kind of cost is one looking at for rear end setup?

I have their 3.25 TSD (back up) unit from when I was running a C4 and the drop-in jack pot cost about $900 a few years ago. But, it is a nice very well built product.

CPOWoodyUSNRet · Oct 17, 2010

I have a 65 coupe originally a 6 cylinder set up that I converted to a V8 289 set up. I used the original rear 8 inch axle assembly and installed a Currie 355:1 PosiTrak gear box and it's solid as a rock. You will have to install traction bars. If you won't have Tbars you will geet massive wheel hop, especially if you haven't up graded the rest of the suspension system yet along with changing the rear axles and front spindles to the 5 lug set up. I bought the complete suspension kit with poly bushings at CJ Pony Parts and it came with much beefier sway bars. I have a 4 speed and left me tell you that set up freaking ROCKS. I also have a Monte Carlo Bar with brace. I can't remember what I paid for my Currie 3.55:1 but I know it was worth every penny.

HDTony · Oct 27, 2010

CPOWoodyUSNRet said:
I have a 65 coupe originally a 6 cylinder set up that I converted to a V8 289 set up. I used the original rear 8 inch axle assembly and installed a Currie 355:1 PosiTrak gear box and it's solid as a rock. You will have to install traction bars. If you won't have Tbars you will geet massive wheel hop, especially if you haven't up graded the rest of the suspension system yet along with changing the rear axles and front spindles to the 5 lug set up. I bought the complete suspension kit with poly bushings at CJ Pony Parts and it came with much beefier sway bars. I have a 4 speed and left me tell you that set up freaking ROCKS. I also have a Monte Carlo Bar with brace. I can't remember what I paid for my Currie 3.55:1 but I know it was worth every penny.

Yup, I was talking with my father in law this weekend, he mentioned massive wheel hop in the 3 of these that he had back in the day.

been working on tearing down the 289 that came with the car on the side, working with my machinist to get the motor planned out looks like we may be going 347, but I need to find some good heads.

PoppyMod · Oct 28, 2010

HDTony said:
Yup, I was talking with my father in law this weekend, he mentioned massive wheel hop in the 3 of these that he had back in the day.

been working on tearing down the 289 that came with the car on the side, working with my machinist to get the motor planned out looks like we may be going 347, but I need to find some good heads.

HI,

The 347 is a great way to go. What kind of duty do you have planned for the 347. street warrior, street/strip, drag queen?
Answering this will guide you toward the at least the size heads, you're seeking, as well as, the cam, it's events and the valve train to maximize those heads. I prefer TWs, but that's my opinion.
So, answer the question ,you'll be headed in the right direction.
Good Luck with your project.

HDTony · Oct 28, 2010

Just playing around on the streets, and the occasional test and tune night at route 66 in Joliet.

Heads are my next question, I've seen some talk inhere about a member who does gt40 heads. And I've been sniffing around the dart website a bit as well.

I do want a lumpy cam as I love a nice rough idle when rolling through the local car show. Any suggestions on either account?

Poppy, what's the deal with the 8 inch ar end, is this something I can build into my existing housing, or did you buy an entire assembly for 900 ish?

coolblue65 · Oct 28, 2010

If you are building a 347 look for something like AFR 185 heads, and a cam like the Comp Xtreme Energy 274 or 280 rollers.

For brakes if you want quick and cheap go with the Granada set-up, if you want to spend a bit more you can go for a late model swap like the '04 Cobra 13" brakes.

Rear end wise, I kept my 8" added 3.55 gears and a Powertrax locker. Been running this on the street with the occasional Rt66 or Union Grove trip for years with no issues, I even started using drag radials and have been ok so far.

HDTony · Oct 28, 2010

Coolblue... Your running 10.8 for compression, you ok on 93 octane pump gas? I was thinking 10.5 would be the limit?

PoppyMod · Oct 28, 2010

HDTony said:
Just playing around on the streets, and the occasional test and tune night at route 66 in Joliet.

Heads are my next question, I've seen some talk inhere about a member who does gt40 heads. And I've been sniffing around the dart website a bit as well.

I do want a lumpy cam as I love a nice rough idle when rolling through the local car show. Any suggestions on either account?

Poppy, what's the deal with the 8 inch ar end, is this something I can build into my existing housing, or did you buy an entire assembly for 900 ish?

Regarding the rear...
Yes, you can buy a complete drop-in "jack-pot", then, you jack up the rear axle assembly, pull the rear wheels, drums, remove the axle retainer plate, pull the axles. from under the car, disconnect the rear u-joint nuts , pull away from the pinion yoke. Place a pan beneath the rear housing remove the 12(?) nuts holding the carrier assy. Don't worry dude, it won't fall off, for sure! Next go find the "BFH" and start tapping the perimeter of the carrier forward of the parting line. If you're lucky, it'll break loose. If not place a wooden wedge in the parting line at several points around the perimeter of the housing to break it loose. Once successful, the lube will start to spill, catch as a possible, then, pry it off the studs. Now dude, be ready for one "friggin" heavy lump of iron.
So, you only have to choose an appropriate form of locking rear. You can choose , TSD, Equa-Lok, Trac- Lok, Detroit Locker, PowerTrax, Auburn, etc. Most reputable companies can supply a drop-in unit and can be installed in the reverse of removal. You only half to add a high quality gear lube and an traction additive, if required.

Bud, if you want a "lumpy" cam then you got to develop a whole new plan!
I'll defer that comment to someone else. I don't know....maybe a "thumper"?

New guy here.

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