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New guy here.

  • Thread starter Thread starter HDTony
  • Start date Start date Oct 15, 2010
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PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
6
19
Severna Park, MD
Oct 28, 2010
#21
  • Oct 28, 2010
  • #21
HDTony said:
Coolblue... Your running 10.8 for compression, you ok on 93 octane pump gas? I was thinking 10.5 would be the limit?
Click to expand...

Yo Tony,

It's quite possible to run, what might appear to be a high CR, however, it's not so much the static CR, as it is the dynamic CR that occurs during operation and is determined, in part, by the overlap event. The result, of which, is a lower CR.
As an example, I built a static CR of 10.6, however in fact, it is 9.8 in operation. Which was a planned event.
 

coolblue65

Founding Member
Jul 26, 1999
1,224
2
39
Algonquin, IL
Oct 28, 2010
#22
  • Oct 28, 2010
  • #22
yeah, I usually run Premium gas, but I have even run it on regular (not at the track though) without any issue.

My idle is pretty lumpy, although not as much as it was when I had flowmasters, the magnaflows smoothed it about it.
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Oct 29, 2010
#23
  • Oct 29, 2010
  • #23
PoppyMod said:
Regarding the rear...
Yes, you can buy a complete drop-in "jack-pot", then, you jack up the rear axle assembly, pull the rear wheels, drums, remove the axle retainer plate, pull the axles. from under the car, disconnect the rear u-joint nuts , pull away from the pinion yoke. Place a pan beneath the rear housing remove the 12(?) nuts holding the carrier assy. Don't worry dude, it won't fall off, for sure! Next go find the "BFH" and start tapping the perimeter of the carrier forward of the parting line. If you're lucky, it'll break loose. If not place a wooden wedge in the parting line at several points around the perimeter of the housing to break it loose. Once successful, the lube will start to spill, catch as a possible, then, pry it off the studs. Now dude, be ready for one "friggin" heavy lump of iron.
So, you only have to choose an appropriate form of locking rear. You can choose , TSD, Equa-Lok, Trac- Lok, Detroit Locker, PowerTrax, Auburn, etc. Most reputable companies can supply a drop-in unit and can be installed in the reverse of removal. You only half to add a high quality gear lube and an traction additive, if required.
Click to expand...

Doesnt sound too bad. Makes more sense now, thinks for the descriptive post mang!

PoppyMod said:
Yo Tony,

It's quite possible to run, what might appear to be a high CR, however, it's not so much the static CR, as it is the dynamic CR that occurs during operation and is determined, in part, by the overlap event. The result, of which, is a lower CR.
As an example, I built a static CR of 10.6, however in fact, it is 9.8 in operation. Which was a planned event.
Click to expand...

Are you speaking to cam duration? I remeber this issue from building my last harley motor. they have starting issues with high compression and not enough duration.

coolblue65 said:
yeah, I usually run Premium gas, but I have even run it on regular (not at the track though) without any issue.

My idle is pretty lumpy, although not as much as it was when I had flowmasters, the magnaflows smoothed it about it.
Click to expand...

Sounds less lumpy or it actually changed your idle? from Backpressure?
 

coolblue65

Founding Member
Jul 26, 1999
1,224
2
39
Algonquin, IL
Oct 29, 2010
#24
  • Oct 29, 2010
  • #24
HDTony said:
Sounds less lumpy or it actually changed your idle? from Backpressure?
Click to expand...

Definitely sounds less lumpy and probably feels less lumpy. If you youtube my user 'KJDIVES' you should come up with some videos of both exhausts and you can definitely tell a difference.
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Oct 30, 2010
#25
  • Oct 30, 2010
  • #25
coolblue65 said:
Definitely sounds less lumpy and probably feels less lumpy. If you youtube my user 'KJDIVES' you should come up with some videos of both exhausts and you can definitely tell a difference.
Click to expand...

Nice videos, thanks for that, the car looks great! Why did you switch to the magna flows? I love the way it sounded with the flow masters.
 

coolblue65

Founding Member
Jul 26, 1999
1,224
2
39
Algonquin, IL
Oct 30, 2010
#26
  • Oct 30, 2010
  • #26
HDTony said:
Nice videos, thanks for that, the car looks great! Why did you switch to the magna flows? I love the way it sounded with the flow masters.
Click to expand...

The flowmasters were on the car for years, welded to a rusty 2.25" exhaust with no h or x-pipe. I upgraded to the Magnaflow stainless 2.5" system w/ X-pipe after I put the 347 in. The goal was to get as much power out of the motor as I could with the better system and freer (sp?) flowing mufflers, and to have a long lasting exhaust.

Sound-wise I absolutely preferred the flowmasters, although I probably wouldn't go back to them only because they are so common and when you hear a car with flowmasters they all pretty much sound the same no matter what motor. The magnaflows definitely quieted my car down at idle and regular driving, to put the point that most people underestimate what my car can do.

If I was to buy new mufflers I would probably buy the Corsa Black series. My father has a set of Corsa's on his car and they plain sound mean.
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Oct 30, 2010
#27
  • Oct 30, 2010
  • #27
coolblue65 said:
The flowmasters were on the car for years, welded to a rusty 2.25" exhaust with no h or x-pipe. I upgraded to the Magnaflow stainless 2.5" system w/ X-pipe after I put the 347 in. The goal was to get as much power out of the motor as I could with the better system and freer (sp?) flowing mufflers, and to have a long lasting exhaust.

Sound-wise I absolutely preferred the flowmasters, although I probably wouldn't go back to them only because they are so common and when you hear a car with flowmasters they all pretty much sound the same no matter what motor. The magnaflows definitely quieted my car down at idle and regular driving, to put the point that most people underestimate what my car can do.

If I was to buy new mufflers I would probably buy the Corsa Black series. My father has a set of Corsa's on his car and they plain sound mean.
Click to expand...


Makes sense. I've been watching your videos a few times. That thing sounds and runs awesome. Any tips on what you would do different with your 347 knowing what you know now?
 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
6
19
Severna Park, MD
Oct 30, 2010
#28
  • Oct 30, 2010
  • #28
I've been running Spintechs with 3" resonators and love the sound.
It's an open chamber sound.
 

jonfor

New Member
Apr 20, 2009
59
0
0
Columbus, GA
Nov 2, 2010
#29
  • Nov 2, 2010
  • #29
2+2GT said:
I swear I'm gonna do a cut-and-paste link on this someday. To convert a 64-66 cylinder Mustang to V8, you need to replace:


Rear axle assembly complete
Rear brakes
Rear springs

Front-to-rear fuel line
Front spindles
Front springs
Sway bar
Front brakes
Inner & outer tie rod ends & adjusters
Center link
Idler Arm
Pitman arm

Engine wiring harness
Throttle pedal

Some other stuff I forgot.

If you're planning on changing the trans, how about a nice 5-speed on the engine you have? Then you don't have to replace all that other stuff.
Click to expand...

my car was converted +15 years ago and i bought more or less a running car. less because it had the wrong flywheel, bald tires, and a siezed caliper, but the price was right. it came with front power disks and is 5 lug on all corners and i have since installed shelby type springs up front. any specific info on why i would need the high-lighted stuff?
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Nov 7, 2010
#30
  • Nov 7, 2010
  • #30
Tore down the 289 this week and dropped the block off at the machine shop yesterday, picked up a T5 and am ordering afr 185's this week, project is moving along.
 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
6
19
Severna Park, MD
Nov 8, 2010
#31
  • Nov 8, 2010
  • #31
HDTony said:
Tore down the 289 this week and dropped the block off at the machine shop yesterday, picked up a T5 and am ordering afr 185's this week, project is moving along.
Click to expand...

I'll add, when you get the block back, you might consider chamfering all of valey oil return holes, that is, radius for better oil return.
There are two in the back and in the center. Also, check around the dizzy shaft area too.
A little glytal added to the avlley and crankcase areas help, as well.
Happy Motoring!
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Nov 8, 2010
#32
  • Nov 8, 2010
  • #32
PoppyMod said:
I'll add, when you get the block back, you might consider chamfering all of valey oil return holes, that is, radius for better oil return.
There are two in the back and in the center. Also, check around the dizzy shaft area too.
A little glytal added to the avlley and crankcase areas help, as well.
Happy Motoring!
Click to expand...

Now this is the kind fo stuff I like hearing. these little tips are golden. Thanks Poppy, anyone got an tips?
 

horseballz

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2009
824
19
49
Las Vegas, NV
Nov 8, 2010
#33
  • Nov 8, 2010
  • #33
Tony,
Do you know what rear end you actually have? I could be mistaken, but I think in 65, most 6 cylinder cars came with the light duty 7.5" or maybe it was 7.75". This rear would have a rear cover bolted on. If you are lucky enough to actually have an 8" with 4 lugs, then all you will need to do is put in a new center chunk and swap to 5 lug axle shafts. If not, you need a complete rear, housing and all.
HTH,
Gene
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Nov 8, 2010
#34
  • Nov 8, 2010
  • #34
Center cover is bolted on.

The rear end is definitly going to need some attention.
 
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