hey guys,im new here on the boards,one of my buddies told me about itim actually in the market for a fox stang.i just sold my jeep that i've had for a while and i have about 5grand to play around with.im looking for a decent car with some decent mods or a nice clean stocker.im in the maryland/d.c area and willing to drive
new guy looking for a fox
- Thread starter lukkin4astang
- Start date
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Aaron
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Welcome to Stangnet!
Your best bet would be to check out the Stangnet classifieds. That, and check the local ebay / Craigslist listings. You'll find one you will really like sooner rather than later.
What model are you looking for? LX hatch, Notch, GT? Vert? T-Tops?
Your best bet would be to check out the Stangnet classifieds. That, and check the local ebay / Craigslist listings. You'll find one you will really like sooner rather than later.
What model are you looking for? LX hatch, Notch, GT? Vert? T-Tops?
nice
You have good taste.
LXs are the cleanest looking foxes for sure.
Just don't be in a hurry to buy and don't settle. If you are not picky about color, you should be able to find something in your price range but be prepared for it to take a few months.
I was very picky, I had $5,000 to spend, I wanted a black lx hatch that was totally rust free and wouldn't take anything else so it took me over a year to find mine.
Good luck and feel free to ask for opinions on any cars you find.
You have good taste.
LXs are the cleanest looking foxes for sure.Just don't be in a hurry to buy and don't settle. If you are not picky about color, you should be able to find something in your price range but be prepared for it to take a few months.
I was very picky, I had $5,000 to spend, I wanted a black lx hatch that was totally rust free and wouldn't take anything else so it took me over a year to find mine.
Good luck and feel free to ask for opinions on any cars you find.
hey ya sry i wasn't actually soliciting i guess i was in a rush and forgot to actually get to my point... i was just wondering what other ppl thought i should look for and things that go wrong,like common problems, that i should look out for and any opinions on my choice n what to do when/if i ever get her...
2BADSTANGS
Member
Personally I like the '87-'93GT's or the '93 Cobra but thats just MY opinion! Just make sure its got a V8 and that its been well taken care of. These cars dont have too many things that usually go wrong, except, heater cores going bad, (just replaced mine for the 2nd time in about 7yrs.) the ashtray cover will usually bust and the center console armrest lid will not secure. (If the car has 1). Other than those things just look out for the "usual suspects" when buying used.
nt have too many things that usually go wrong, except, heater cores going bad, (just replaced mine for the 2nd time in about 7yrs.) the ashtray cover will usually bust and the center console armrest lid will not secure. (If the car has 1). Other than those things just look out for the "usual suspects" when buying used.
Welcome to Stangnet... 
Not all of us know how to fix everything, but some of us know how to fix some things
with excellence!
If you want to do the fix up & power up thing, make sure that you have some other
form of reliable daily driver. That way the stang can sit while your wallet and hands
take a rest from the last project that didn't quite get finished on that 3 day weekend.
Things always cost more and take longer the first time you do them. Having some
other working vehicle makes life easier since it isn't the big crush to get it running
for the Monday morning drive to work or class.
Plan on spending some money on tools it you don't already have them. The stang
has both metric and american fasteners, so you really need two sets of wrenches.
A timing light, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge, compression tester, fuel pressure
test gauge and fuel line coupler tools are some of the test & tuning tools you'll need.
Visit the pawn shops and sometimes you can find a deal on tools & test equipment
if you stick to well known name brands.
A sheltered work area is almost a must, someplace that you can leave the car in
pieces without upsetting anyone. Some guys here have changed a transmission in
the parking lot of their apartment in a rainstorm, but they will tell you it wasn't fun.
Depending on where you live, a warm dry garage is a nice place to do the winter
projects that stangs tend to become.
EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) Computer - every stang after 85 has or had one:
don't let it intimidate you. The computer based EFI systems are not hard to fix
and most of the time they tell you what's wrong with the engine. Here's a book
that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst:
ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.
It's about $25-$30 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select b...d.php?t=643651"]Useful Technical Thread Index” sticky at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum.
Things that break often:
T5 5 speed manual transmission (syncros go bad, mostly 3rd gear)
TFI Module (Thin Film Ignition module - mounts on the distributor)
Electric door locks (see the link in my sign for a cheap & easy fix)
O2 sensors(oxygen sensors) They are good for about 60,000 miles and start to go
down hill after that.
TPS Sensor (Throttle Position Sensor) causes flaky problems with idle & acceleration.
Fog lights They overheat the wiring and cause the headlights to flicker. The fix is
cheap and simple if you can do electrical stuff.
Harmonic Balancer – they separate between the hub and outer ring. A harmonic
balancer puller is a must have to change it. You can rent or borrow a puller from
most of the larger auto parts stores.
Things that are very durable:
Engine - as long as it hasn't been abused, it will run good for 150,000-200,000
miles without an overhaul
Rear axle other than an occasional case of worn clutches in the traction lock,
they almost never have problems.
Computer - believe it or not, the computers seldom have problems of their own.
Most of the problems are with the sensors and the wiring.
Suspension – the front and rear suspension has very few problems if the car hasn’t
been wrecked or seen a lot of drag strip runs. The drag strip runs tend to distort and
tear the mount points for the rear axle control arms. Revving the engine up to 4000
RPM and dumping the clutch with slicks or drag radials tends to break things.
Things that don’t break often but are hard to fix:
Water pump mount bolts – they corrode and shear off when you try to change the
water pump.
Rear oil seal on the engine – lots of parts to remove to get to a $20 seal.
Power steering pump – the pumps are noisy and the pulley requires some special
tools to remove and install. If you have the tools, they are easy to do. Again, the
larger auto parts stores will rent or loan the tools for the pulley.
Power Steering rack - it is hard to get the toe in set so that you can drive the car
to the shop to get it properly aligned.
Starter – the top bolt is hard to get a socket on if you don’t have the right combination
of socket, universal joint and extensions.
Everything considered, 5.0 Mustangs are not hard to work on. They just require
some patience and though before you get started.
Not all of us know how to fix everything, but some of us know how to fix some things
with excellence!
If you want to do the fix up & power up thing, make sure that you have some other
form of reliable daily driver. That way the stang can sit while your wallet and hands
take a rest from the last project that didn't quite get finished on that 3 day weekend.
Things always cost more and take longer the first time you do them. Having some
other working vehicle makes life easier since it isn't the big crush to get it running
for the Monday morning drive to work or class.
Plan on spending some money on tools it you don't already have them. The stang
has both metric and american fasteners, so you really need two sets of wrenches.
A timing light, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge, compression tester, fuel pressure
test gauge and fuel line coupler tools are some of the test & tuning tools you'll need.
Visit the pawn shops and sometimes you can find a deal on tools & test equipment
if you stick to well known name brands.
A sheltered work area is almost a must, someplace that you can leave the car in
pieces without upsetting anyone. Some guys here have changed a transmission in
the parking lot of their apartment in a rainstorm, but they will tell you it wasn't fun.
Depending on where you live, a warm dry garage is a nice place to do the winter
projects that stangs tend to become.
EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) Computer - every stang after 85 has or had one:
don't let it intimidate you. The computer based EFI systems are not hard to fix
and most of the time they tell you what's wrong with the engine. Here's a book
that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst:
ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.
It's about $25-$30 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select b...d.php?t=643651"]Useful Technical Thread Index” sticky at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum.
Things that break often:
T5 5 speed manual transmission (syncros go bad, mostly 3rd gear)
TFI Module (Thin Film Ignition module - mounts on the distributor)
Electric door locks (see the link in my sign for a cheap & easy fix)
O2 sensors(oxygen sensors) They are good for about 60,000 miles and start to go
down hill after that.
TPS Sensor (Throttle Position Sensor) causes flaky problems with idle & acceleration.
Fog lights They overheat the wiring and cause the headlights to flicker. The fix is
cheap and simple if you can do electrical stuff.
Harmonic Balancer – they separate between the hub and outer ring. A harmonic
balancer puller is a must have to change it. You can rent or borrow a puller from
most of the larger auto parts stores.
Things that are very durable:
Engine - as long as it hasn't been abused, it will run good for 150,000-200,000
miles without an overhaul
Rear axle other than an occasional case of worn clutches in the traction lock,
they almost never have problems.
Computer - believe it or not, the computers seldom have problems of their own.
Most of the problems are with the sensors and the wiring.
Suspension – the front and rear suspension has very few problems if the car hasn’t
been wrecked or seen a lot of drag strip runs. The drag strip runs tend to distort and
tear the mount points for the rear axle control arms. Revving the engine up to 4000
RPM and dumping the clutch with slicks or drag radials tends to break things.
Things that don’t break often but are hard to fix:
Water pump mount bolts – they corrode and shear off when you try to change the
water pump.
Rear oil seal on the engine – lots of parts to remove to get to a $20 seal.
Power steering pump – the pumps are noisy and the pulley requires some special
tools to remove and install. If you have the tools, they are easy to do. Again, the
larger auto parts stores will rent or loan the tools for the pulley.
Power Steering rack - it is hard to get the toe in set so that you can drive the car
to the shop to get it properly aligned.
Starter – the top bolt is hard to get a socket on if you don’t have the right combination
of socket, universal joint and extensions.
Everything considered, 5.0 Mustangs are not hard to work on. They just require
some patience and though before you get started.
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