New Key Remote

Shiroelex said:

I've just finished fixing a 92 Tbird SC, and it didn't come with a remote for the door locks. It has the number pad on the driver's door, but I don't know the code for it. Is there any way to get a new remote for the locks made? I hate having to unlock it manually, especially since that driver's door tumbler is feeling a little gritty lately.

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Tips for adding keyless entry

Here are some tips on the installation of the aftermarket keyless entry system. This is mainly for the 89-93 interior, but I'm sure you 94-up guys will find some valuable information. Here are the most important steps.
• GET A WIRING DIAGRAM if you plan to do this yourself. I think Chilton's manuals has them, but I'm not sure how extensive they are. You can use a Popular Mechanics AllData CD-ROM myself, it's only 20 bucks and you can do all kinds of stuff with it. If you have the wiring diagrams, it's simply a matter of reading simple schematics and looking for the right color wire to splice/tap/whatever. If you don't, it's a hellish experience involving a multimeter and a lot of patience.
• You can installed the module underneath the sunglass holder or whatever it is under the climate control. That gives you a convenient power source- the cigarette lighter.
• Most of the modules have a signal wire to tell when the car is on. Unless it says otherwise, you don't want a wire that is on in Accessory/Run, you want a Start/Run wire. Accessory wires shut off when you start the car to give starter more power, so the module can get confused when you start it up and it loses power while the starter is running.
• The Warning Chime module is easy to get to, and it has a Start/Run wire. Press in the tabs at the sides of the glovebox and drop it down, the module is toward the right of that opening. The red/yellow wire is what you want. While you're in there, hook up the trunk release. The release does not use a relay, so you'll need to if your module doesn't have one built-in.
• Remove the gauge cluster bezel to access the headlight switch wiring, you can tap into the parking lights here. There is plenty of room under the driver's dash for lock and dome light relays if your module needs them.
• If you remove the knee bolster (plastic panel and metal plate--really easy on the knees, huh? , you'll see plenty of space. The area above the courtesy light and fusebox is ideal. You will also see the horn wire running down the column, it is yellow with a green stripe.
• There is a hole to the left of the cigarette lighter where you can run wires to this section of the dash too. The lock and dome light wires are accessible by removing the plastic piece at the base of the driver's door opening and lifting the carpet. You'll also need to remove the kick panel to run wiring up to the dash.
• To run the locks, dome light and trunk release, you will need four SPDT automotive (30-40 amp) relays. And your module has to have outputs for them. Be sure to use good connectors and tape everything up securely. BTW, the difference between 3M and el-cheapo electrical tape is astounding. Go for the good stuff!!
• Use either relay harnesses or quick connectors on the relay tabs, preferably the fully-insulated kind. I used wire that's sheathed in soft plastic as well as a hard outer coating so it won't be easily damaged by chafing on metal parts. It was 14-gauge, but you can use 16 or probably 18 without any problems.
• A box of the light-blue (14-18ga I believe) Scotch-Lok tap connectors are a godsend, as are good wire nuts with metal inserts for a secure connection (tape these well!) and some butt connectors.
• Don't forget the crimp tool and some good wire strippers/cutters!
• Just be sure to use the proper parts for connecting these wires, if your connections fall apart you don't want to have to take everything back apart to find out why your locks stopped working or why you keep popping fuses!
• Oh, and if your module comes with a button to program/override the system, find a better place to put it than the ashtray. I thought it would be a nice location, but I broke the plastic piece that the cover pivots on ("Plastic Welder" epoxy to the rescue!!), and then I had a hell of a time wiring the switch into it. The upper rear of the sunglass holder would be a much better location.

My system also came with an LED that blinks when you lock the car, I put it on the side of the dashboard facing the driver's window so I don't have to stare at that very aftermarket-looking LED all the time when I drive. If I had to do it again, though, I would try and put it in the bulb holder for the "ANTI-THEFT" light in the gauge cluster for a factory look.

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