new m/c and bb... pedal still goes to the floor, WTF?

old_blue

15 Year Member

Nov 3, 2003

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Oct 8, 2006

#1

• Oct 8, 2006

• #1

Whole car is about to go into the trash. 5 lug conversion was going great until it came to bleeding the brakes. I have never had soo much trouble bleeding the brakes. I get solid fluid to all four corners. I just replaced the brake booster and m/c and the pedal still goes to the floor..... I am about out of ideas. Giving up for tonite. I don't know where the air is hiding but I am obviously not getting it out or something else major is wrong. any ideas?

 

K

krallman

New Member

Mar 3, 2006

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Hurricane, WV

Oct 9, 2006

#2

• Oct 9, 2006

• #2

did you replace any lines.. if so there is going to be alot of air. bleeding brakes isnt fun and can take a while sometimes. you just have to keep doing it until you have pedal. you could have a leak but that would be pretty obvious.

 

8

8950HO

New Member

Mar 31, 2005

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Oct 9, 2006

#3

• Oct 9, 2006

• #3

Did you bench bleed the new mc first?
Is the booster pushrod set up properly?

If your getting solid fluid at all 4 wheels with no air,it could be a defective mc.

What parts are you using?

 

old_blue

15 Year Member

Nov 3, 2003

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Oct 9, 2006

#4

• Oct 9, 2006

• #4

I don't know if the rod is set properly or not. I have about 1/2" to (maybe) 1" of travel in the pedal. I dont know if that would be my problem though. I spent the better part of today with the pressure bleeder (piece together from homedepot) and it didn't really push too much fluid like I thought it was going to. Just a slow drizzle and the PSI never dropped once I pumped it to 10 psi. Doesn't sound right to me. I am beginning to think that maybe I didnt gut the stock proportioning valve totally. How many pieces are in there? maybe I didn't get it all out....... I can't think of anything else. Either way I dont think the pedal should be going to the floor.

My next step is to take it to a shop and have them bleed it for me. See if they have any luck.
any more suggestions. And yes I bench beld the mc.

 

B

BlackBaer5.0

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Nov 26, 2003

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Oct 9, 2006

#5

• Oct 9, 2006

• #5

A couple things to look for

One , take the MC back out and verify you have the correct preload/ or shaft length on the pushrod...and then check out this site I just found..it seemed to have all the answers

http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/

 

old_blue

15 Year Member

Nov 3, 2003

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Oct 9, 2006

#6

• Oct 9, 2006

• #6

how much preload am I looking for? should there not be any play in the rod length? I have been to that site and my only real concern is that (1.) I may not have gutted the stock pv completely. I maybe have left a small piece in there. I know I got the rod and the spring but I don't know if there was more than that. (2.) there is air in the lines that I am not getting to. WHen I used the make shift pressure bleeder I have it up to 10 lbs of pressure and it just stayed there the whole time even after I opened the line and let fluid out it never dropped below 10psi and the fluid came out at a slow drizzle. Never shot out or anything like it was even under pressure.

 

old_blue

15 Year Member

Nov 3, 2003

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Oct 9, 2006

#7

• Oct 9, 2006

• #7

what am I looking for on that site? does someone have a specific page to look at? I can't believe this is such a pain in the arse.

 

old_blue

15 Year Member

Nov 3, 2003

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Oct 10, 2006

#8

• Oct 10, 2006

• #8

8950HO said:

Did you bench bleed the new mc first?
Is the booster pushrod set up properly?

If your getting solid fluid at all 4 wheels with no air,it could be a defective mc.

What parts are you using?

Click to expand...

oops I forgot to answer your question:
I am using a 93 cobra brake booster, 95 gt master cylinder, 99+ pbr front calipers, 96 rear calipers, a wilwood proportioning valve. The only parts that are not brand new are the rear calipers. Everything else has been bought brand new.