New MAC h-pipe, any advice before install

soctty7676

New Member
Apr 4, 2005
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Hey all, after getting my clutch cable issue fixed, I decided to reward myself with a new MAC o/r h-pipe to complement my Flowmaster Am. Thunder cat-back system.

I have always thought that I need the MIL eliminators when putting on an o/r pipe. But, the MAC pipe has all four threaded holes for all the O2 sensors. So does this mean, I don't need to purchase the MIL eliminators? If I do need them, but don't buy them right now, will I be hurting anything by running it that way?

Any other advice before I get this started would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
soctty7676 said:
Hey all, after getting my clutch cable issue fixed, I decided to reward myself with a new MAC o/r h-pipe to complement my Flowmaster Am. Thunder cat-back system.

I have always thought that I need the MIL eliminators when putting on an o/r pipe. But, the MAC pipe has all four threaded holes for all the O2 sensors. So does this mean, I don't need to purchase the MIL eliminators? If I do need them, but don't buy them right now, will I be hurting anything by running it that way?

Any other advice before I get this started would be appreciated.

Thanks!
you will need the mil eliminators in the two rear holes and 02
sensors in the front two holes:nice:
 
Ok, I will buy the MIL eliminators then.

I am guessing if I don't do this and the Check Engine light comes on, that the car would probably go into a "safe mode" and not run correctly?

So far, engine-wise I have only done exhaust modifications (cat-back and soon, mid-pipe). I do not need a chip or custom tune yet do I?
 
Search the many threads that address this issue (the new H pipe). You'll find everything you need including what combination of sockets and extensions to use. Lots of PB Blaster too. Have fun with your new language. Don't use the impact wrench that some will advise to do. You'll strip the nuts. PATIENCE is the key.
 
It is a '98 GT Convertible. From what I could tell the O2 sensors look to be in the same place in the rear from the stock mid-pipe to the MAC.

I am hoping I can put it on this weekend, then worry about the MIL Eliminators and stuff after another week or two. (Need to save more money).
 
I would invest few bucks on Can of header paint. Black THC coating on Mac is junk. I sprayed it with Silver header paint on my ProChamber, and let it burn in, and year and half later, it was still like new. Aint that right Mossberg?
 
soctty- I have those exact MIL elims and they work just fine. Order them now because he sends them US Mail and that could take a while depending on where you are! He is in Michigan somewhere and I'm in Mississippi on the Gulf. With a 39 cent stamp, it takes 7 days. They will arrive in a plain white envelope.
Make sure to use some heat-shrink after you solder the connections and you'll be weather proof.
 
My Mac pipe with the black coating is fine.. looks brand new after a year, and I never EVER wash the underside. Of course I live in AZ, so dust is about the only thing that ever touches it.

Disconnect the battery first is my main advice. Secondly, medium deepwell sockets work well, and whoever recommended to not use airtools probably used the wrong size socket. You won't strip them if you take your time and line up the socket before you pull the trigger.
 
Thanks for the advice on painting the mid-pipe, I will paint it Thursday and put it on Saturday. I live in Florida and it seems like anything will rust/corrode here.

Also, thanks for the advice on the MIL Elim. I figured they would work fine, but wanted to know if anyone else has used them.

Hopefully, since my clutch was replaced about 4 months ago, the mid pipe will not be frozen on. The night before I took it into the shop, I sprayed the bolts with PB blaster, and the mechanic said they came right off with no problems at all. Hopefully that will be the case this time around.
 
I put on an off road X last weekend. Use PB Blaster and like the other guy said a medium 15 MM socket. The deep well can work but you are more likely to strip the nut with it.

I have driven my stang about 90 miles since the install and it still hasn't tripped the Check Engine light. I should have my SCT tuner this week so if it does then I'll turn it off. I would have figured it would have tripped by now.
 
when i installed my O/r x-pipe I drove around for 2 months with the SES light on.. didn't really seem to effect the car any at all. I just had my tuner turn the rear o2 sensors off instead of wasting money on mil eliminators