New Mods Coming!

FoxGT87 · Apr 28, 2011

the car is finally getting some love!

Clay has my 24 lbs injectors and Pro-M 80mm MAF in the mail

I dropped the car off at a buddys shop so we can get my MM full length subframe connectors welded on

and.... im picking up a set of Windsor JR heads for $400 saturday... heres a link to see what im getting (yes i know its cast iron... but they have a 180cc chamber with out a port!)

World Products - WINDSOR JR. Iron Heads

should i hold off on putting the heads in the car and port and polish them up and buy a new cam? that way i can do the install once and be done with it.

also what else will i need to do the head job?

wythors · Apr 28, 2011

FoxGT87 said:
also what else will i need to do the head job?

A willing woman.

FoxGT87 · Apr 28, 2011

I took yoga for a while but i never could get flexible enough to.... uhhh never mind.

NIKwoaC · Apr 30, 2011

Hey man, just saw your post in my build thread.

My vote is to port them. If you were to port the heads, would you do it yourself, or would you pay someone to do it? If you do it yourself, you're a braver man than I! Just make sure you do a lot of research on head porting, it is really easy to screw it up. You could always do a very mild port on them yourself, just to clean up the casting a little (basically just a polish), and then down the road pay someone to CNC them, to hog them out and really get some serious flow numbers.

Remember, port volume isn't everything! A perfect example of that is the Trick Flow "Fast as Cast" 190s versus the Trick Flow CNC 185s. The 185s flow something like 25 more CFM at .600" lift, even though they have a "smaller" intake port. Food for thought.

As for a cam, it's really up to you how adventurous you want to be. I'm no expert, so I won't try to recommend specifics. The Comp XE line of cams seems to be really good performers, and if you look at the specs on those cams, you can see that they're much more up-to-date than older stuff like the FRPP letter cams. Honestly, though, your BEST bet with the cam, is to get on the horn with someone who knows what they're talking about. You could always call a place like Comp or Anderson Ford Motorsport and have them help recommend an OTS cam, or you could call a true custom cam builder and have them make you a one-off cam. (Comp does do one-off custom cams, but I'm not sure how you go about ordering one directly from them. My Comp cam IS a one-off custom, but I ordered it through T.E.A. )

BTW, a few custom cam companies to look into are Ed Curtis at FTI, Cam Motion, and Bullet. There are others, but none are coming to mind right now. You're going to spend more on a custom, typically around $100.

FoxGT87 · Apr 30, 2011

Yeah i was thinking roughly $300 for a custom ground stick. I really think that im going to ride out with my car the way it is and put the 80mm MAF on there for now. That way i can save up and and buy the necessary stuff to do the IE: having someone do a port job, gaskets, timing chain, etc. I don't want to get caught with my pants down when i tear my car apart.

When you have someone port a set of heads for you, how do you buy new valves for the heads? This will be my first ever tear down of an engine, what other parts should I keep in mind to do this correctly (gaskets, timing chain, what ever else I'm missing because I know I am).

So right now I'm projecting myself to need another $600 dollars to buy a custom grind cam and have the heads ported ($175 locally) and valves (no idea how much that costs) Thats not even including the parts that I am not sure I need. Input and criticism is welcome, this site has saved me a couple of times when i was about to drop coin on something.

For exciting news..... PEEEKTURES!!!!!

I might have the SFC's welded on tonight. I have been told they make a huge difference so I can't wait to have my car back from the shop!

Cobra912 · Apr 30, 2011

save your cash, run them as is. a custom cam is great but on a close to stock motor I think it's hardly worth it IMO

be prepared to spend more than you budget, all of a sudden those gaskets cost you more than you thought, you need differnt pushrods, you find out the timing chain is worn etc etc. a valve job isn't cheap, that'll set you back some extra cash

FoxGT87 · Apr 30, 2011

what does a smaller combustion chamber do for me? is bigger not necessarily better in a combustion chamber? I do not really know how compression works that well I'm googling to find info right now.

Head intake port combustion chamber intake valve exhaust valve
E7TE 124cc 61cc 1.78 1.46
GT40P 145cc 59cc 1.85 1.46
GT40-Explorer 145cc 65cc 1.85 1.54
GT40-Cobra 145cc 61cc 1.85 1.54

i noticed that the GT40P has similar combustion chambers, intake, and exhaust valves as the Windsor JRs, but the Windsor JRs do have 35cc more intake port. so again what does having a smaller combustion do for me?

Intake Runner: 180cc, standard port location
Exhaust Ports: 64cc, standard location (dual exhaust bolt pattern to accommodate large custom headers)
Combustion Chamber: 58cc

I would like more opinions on porting/polishing and a custom stick. i see HP to be gained with it but as cobra said i would definitely be counting the dollars disapear. so maybe i will try and buy an OTS cam that best fits my goals. Help me make up my mind!

EDIT: How does upgrading to a 1.73 roller rocker effect me? what are the benefits. i see a lot of people sticking with the 1.6 rockers but i see just about as many going with the 1.73 rockers. i got a set of bigger eddy aluminum valve covers on my old F150 302 that has 1.73 rockers but i think that is a flat tappet 302 so i won't be able to use them.

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