New motor slower than stock ... READ

Ok well i took my car to the track tonight. Expecting a low 13 or high 12 with my setup... Ok here are the mods 89 GT Full weight

306 with SLP pistons
Stock rods and crank
F-cam
Strike Force aluminum heads 2.02/160
Trick flow intake manifold 70MMTB
24# inj
Headers Xpipe Exhaust
3.73 Gears

I made 1 pass and parked it, it was a perfect run by me.
14.2 @ 99 MPH :mad:

Ok when i had 170K on my stock longblock with the intake and injectors i was running 13.7 @ 102

And then i put a 50 shot on it before and ran a 13.2@109

Any ideas here??

I use to have a MSD 6al but it stopped working but i dont belive that would make that big of a diffrence, So at the current time im just running off the Blaster 2 MSD coil...With stock distributor and ford 9MM wires
 
What was your 60' and was this on radials?

Since you said this was a perfect run I'm assuming traction wasn't an issue. Timing could be off, or engine may be tuned incorrectly, possibly running lean.

Those heads seem pretty big for a 306 with that small of a cam, those are 200cc intakes right? Similar to vic jrs.

I still think you should be way faster, What are you shifting at?

I run low 14's with my 289 with iron 160cc heads and small [email protected] cam.

I would be shifting at 6K with that combo, seems like it would make peak power close to that.
 
to me it seems like a badly match combo (not to be an ass) just.. a 306 doesnt add THAT much power.. it just add's some.. also is it a auto or manual? manual could have a clutch slippage problem or low launch rpm... auto could need a stall and shift kit.. need more info
 
TheChevyEater said:
to me it seems like a badly match combo (not to be an ass) just.. a 306 doesnt add THAT much power.. it just add's some.. also is it a auto or manual? manual could have a clutch slippage problem or low launch rpm... auto could need a stall and shift kit.. need more info


I dont think he means being just being bored over to a 306 is gonna make it a rocket but when u see people hitting high 12's with stock heads and some gears, slicks, and a few little things i get a little jealous. obviously theres something way wrong, especiallly if it was faster with a stock motor..

hows it run, have low vacuum, got any codes, clutch maybe slipping, wheres the timing, fuel pressure?
 
Ok 2.1 60 FT on street tires
I went with a 306 and F cam becuase i am going to boost the motor in the future and yes these are 200 CC heads which will really help with boost. Timing was i belive on 12deg. But i would think with this setup i would run better than stock long block or maybe im just retarded and like spending 5K on ****... All i know is this sucks.
 
What I dont get is I see that you have big heads on a 306, so you should espect to lose some low end, but your MPH is quite a bit slower than before. With those big heads and bigger cam, you should have picked up some MPH, if not some ET. Sounds like a dyno tune is in order.
 
exactly i expected some loss of low end but it feels stock to me, it has good torque at 2000 rpm. But this thing should scream the higher the rpms go the harder it should pull. and it does have a smooth pull all the way to 6K but its jus not fast... so im at a total loss, and dyno tuning and hooking this thing up to a computer to see what is goin on is deff. on my mind, but i jus cant belive how much slower this thing is, even with a bad tune i would of thought id break 100mph and hit somewhere in 13...
 
Tonys89GT said:
What I dont get is I see that you have big heads on a 306, so you should espect to lose some low end, but your MPH is quite a bit slower than before. With those big heads and bigger cam, you should have picked up some MPH, if not some ET. Sounds like a dyno tune is in order.

I agree. Good luck getting it fixed. :)
 
^^^^ i agree.......my timing was set at 15* and i wanted it to cam alot harder so i knocked it back down to the stock 10* and took it for a run........ran like a piece of crap. An f-150 could have beat me. SOOOO i would for sure mess with the timing
 
If your running the stock distributor you'll be limited to the curves you can run.

Stock advance rates and base timing were meant for emissions not power,

You'll want total timing to come in by 2500rpm, Shoot for 35-38 total timing

The higher the compression, the lower your total timing and advance rate will have to be in order to avoid detonation.
 
hey Mike, keep in mind, not everyone can just swap out advance springs and bushings-I'll be losing that capability pretty soon when I swap to FI. The only thing you can really do with an FI car for timing without hooking up a tuner is initial timing, or lock it out by running total timing all the time...
 
Did you degree the cam? Did you advance it? Bigger heads may need some higher RPM than the F cam is willing to perform at, I don't know the range of the F cam, but might the band for the cam be falling off where the heads are looking to start? You may need to go forced induction to really make use of the big valves in those heads.
 
Give this thread a good reading..you'd be surprised how important aspects like this can be in the overall performance of the engine can be.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=618405&highlight=degree+cam
I would talk to the builder..see what he has to say.I have a good relationship with the gentleman who assembled my shortblock, he contacted me both during and after the install to see if I had any issues or questions he could answer for me.
 
ok i bumped the timing up to 15...BUT now i am gettin mixed reactions on my FP.. I had the guy that built my motor tell me put it at 31-32 ... and another guy i know is running a 6psi charger with a keithcraft 306 and 24#inj and he is only running 32 psi ... and i have all yas on here tellin me to crank it up... So i dont know what to do, so first i tried it at 31psi and it felt a little better but jus barley...