new parts!! woohoo!!!

sade04 · Nov 20, 2006

ok so ive had my heart set on getting some h&r ss springs for the LONGEST time. Right now im at 110K on the stock suspension so you can imagine how bad the car handles. Any way I was on ebay and found a set of brand new tokico blues that a guy decided he didnt want anymore. SO i waited and waited and waited and in the last 15 secs put in my bid and won! Ok well it doesnt make sense to get new shocks and not get lowering springs...so i ordered the hr ss's. ...then i remembered everyone said that new cc plates WILL be needed with such a drop. So i ordered the MM CC plates. Also i didnt want my stock waffels to look tucked in the back so i got 1in spacers

Everything is getting put on this wednesday!!
If anyone has any tips let me know thanks!!

View attachment 422691

Blackened302 · Nov 20, 2006

nice, Eric, it's gonna look sweet!!

SeventyMach1 · Nov 21, 2006

I'm currently running all the exact same stuff ..... except the spacers of course. I also used Fox Tokico's ..... but pretty much the same.

You should love it! As far as tips ... it's a pretty straight through simple thing to do. It just took me a while because I was doing ball joints at the same time. If you need a walk-through guide, I can post one up for you.

Oh, one favor please for when you do this. There are 4 small & 4 large spacers with the MM plates. Make note of how many / which ones you use on top & bottom & post up. I asked this when doing my install & others have asked this as well. I don't even really know how you're supposed to determine what goes where, lol.

For visualization, this is what mine looked like afterwards .....

HISSIN50 · Nov 21, 2006

Nice choices! I run the same Dampers with a Prokit (it doesnt look beautiful like Justin's ride, but I worried any more drop would mean that I'd need CC plates. Also, I drag on crap as it is).

You're going to LOVE IT!

Oooh, you might want to get some fresh spring isoloators. Poly will raise things up a hair over the stock stuff IMHO, but sometimes the stock pieces come out, well, in pieces. Figure 50 bucks or so shipped for isolators (pricey, I think. I put up a thread asking for cheaper alternatives and no one had any. Prothane is a hair cheaper than ES but I went with ES because I've used their stuff before).

Have fun!

ProKiller · Nov 21, 2006

only tip i have is to take out the wtb thing in your sig.

SeventyMach1 · Nov 21, 2006

+ 1 on ISOLATORS!!!

One thing I wish I would have done.

1TallMF · Nov 21, 2006

Should be a sweet setup, you'll love it. I put on the fox shocks about a month ago as well, but it looks to me as though the shocks are the same length. See for yourself:

Not much in terms of tips, maybe just make sure you secure the stock springs somehow before you loosen and lower the control arms, they can sometimes be unpredictable and eject themselves at you. The rest is pretty straight-forward. And remember to post up before and after pics of the stance, thats a requirement for this type of thread

SeventyMach1 · Nov 21, 2006

Stephane, I "think" the difference is inside, but I may be wrong.

FWIW, Maximum Motorsports has informed me that putting the Fox struts & shocks on did not make any kind of difference. But they were cheaper .... so I can't complain!

The Green GT · Nov 21, 2006

My H&R Super Sports are red.

SeventyMach1 · Nov 21, 2006

The Green GT said:
My H&R Super Sports are red.

Mine are blue .... in size 7 text that is blue!

The Green GT · Nov 21, 2006

SeventyMach1 said:
Mine are blue .... in size 7 text that is blue!

WELL IM STUMPED IN SIZE 5 TEXT SO I CAN BE DIFFERNET PLUS WHEN IM DONE TYPING THIS IM GONNA HIGHLIGHT IT ALL AND MAKE IT SOME CRAZY COLOR.

sade04 · Nov 21, 2006

SeventyMach1 said:
I'm currently running all the exact same stuff ..... except the spacers of course. I also used Fox Tokico's ..... but pretty much the same.

Oh, one favor please for when you do this. There are 4 small & 4 large spacers with the MM plates. Make note of how many / which ones you use on top & bottom & post up. I asked this when doing my install & others have asked this as well. I don't even really know how you're supposed to determine what goes where, lol.

yeah i bought the fox tokicos too

and ill def. let you know about the mm plates, hopefully i can figure it out haha.

i found a few links for the walk-throughs...

http://www.stangnet.com/tech/spring.html

http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/steedaspring1.htm

...which i think are really detailed and helpful.

btw your car looks great

sade04 · Nov 21, 2006

HISSIN50 said:
Nice choices! I run the same Dampers with a Prokit (it doesnt look beautiful like Justin's ride, but I worried any more drop would mean that I'd need CC plates. Also, I drag on crap as it is).

You're going to LOVE IT!

Oooh, you might want to get some fresh spring isoloators. Poly will raise things up a hair over the stock stuff IMHO, but sometimes the stock pieces come out, well, in pieces. Figure 50 bucks or so shipped for isolators (pricey, I think. I put up a thread asking for cheaper alternatives and no one had any. Prothane is a hair cheaper than ES but I went with ES because I've used their stuff before).

Have fun!

nuts, i didnt think i needed new isolators! all the walkthroughs i read didnt mention anythign about putting on new ones. anyway i guess i can always put em in later.
thanks for the advice man

...ive never seen a pic of your car (so please post one )

The Green GT · Nov 22, 2006

If you can get the isolators off the stock springs w/o ripping them then you deserve a medal.

I think all they do it eleminate noise between the springs and where they sit.

SeventyMach1 · Nov 22, 2006

Thanks man!

Chances are, the stockers will not look too great. The reason I didn't get them, you are now experiencing. I didn't see anyone else saying to get them. I regret not doing it because they are cheap and good to do while there. I get squeaks from time to time and all I have left to blame it on is the isolators. They also help with the "ride" just a little.

BTW, I DID manage to get them off without ripping them. I just sprayed some penetrant (or something like that) into all of the grooves. Let it sit for ~10 minutes. They slid right off.

HISSIN50 · Nov 22, 2006

sade04 said:
...ive never seen a pic of your car (so please post one )

Unlike most of you guys, I don't have anything nice (nor do I take nice photographs - I've seen some flattering angles when I'm parked places, but I don't have a camera). It's always nice to be asked though.

Here's a couple that I've posted before:

We will, of course, need before and after pics of your ride.

I'd add that if you have stock springs and think they might be hard to remove (with the common internet spring removal methods), we can provide an alternate method (works well for tall-spring removal).

Good luck!

sade04 · Nov 22, 2006

i do have the stock springs...soo what exactly is the alternate method?

Blackened302 · Nov 22, 2006

nice looking cards, JT, never seen them before! where do you live? looks desert-ish.

SeventyMach1 · Nov 22, 2006

Yes, they are. I wish we had more pics.

No offense meant to anyone at all ..... but I don't see how you desert & Canadian folks can take it, lol. I can't stand extreme hot or extreme cold temps.

JT, I always liked those 96+ wheels on our cars. Are they polished up really nice or chromed?

HISSIN50 · Nov 22, 2006

The alternate method is to disconnect the anti-sway bar end-links and remove the two LCA mounting bolts (where the LCA's mount to the K).

Now instead of using those two bolts as pivots (with the BJ and tie rod disconnected - like the internet articles have you do), you let the strut be the pivot. There's no prying of springs or anything involved with this method. You do need a good floor jack (not a 20 dollar one from the parts store) because for the removal and install, you use the jack under the control arm to lower and raise it (with the spring pressure on the LCA and jack). Upon the reinstall, you need to be able to move the jack to get the LCA arm bolt-holes and K to line back up.
With this method, it takes me about 15 minutes a side to swap front springs.
If you do actually use this method, we can post up more specifics. Most folks don't do it this way so I don't type a whole lot initially. With any suspension work, obviously just be careful of the parts and give them great respect. There are some very thorough online write-ups of this method.

The internet-article methods work real easy if you already have lowering springs of some sort in the car. And if you do want to do the internet method, The Green GT recently did a nice write up (might be a good reference in addition to those two articles you already found).

After some hunting, I think this is it:

http://www.automodding.com/sitemap/install-lowering-springs-94-t1449.html

Paul, thank you for the kind words! I'm in the AZ desert. Like you, we're still warm (it was in the 80's today).

new parts!! woohoo!!!

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