new to mustangs

I'll move this over 5.0 tech for ya.
As far as a 357cid it is most likely a 347cid. I do not know of a 357 stroker kit.

You either have a (347) or a 351 that has been bored to 357. You need to call up (the kid) and ask a few more questions. At least that's what i'd do. As far as the heads go, just pull a valve cover and post the numbers that you find.

Look on the ends of the heads, they should have three or four bars. Three bars are GT40 heads and four bars are GT40P heads. Lightnings I believe had the GT40 heads. They should be stamped with GT all over the castings. It may save you from pulling the valve covers. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

if you're running pump gas in that engine without hella pinging, I doubt it's a 13:1 compression ratio. If it's a 302 block, it can only be a 347 or 331 if it's stroked.

Since you lack knowledge about electricty and how the computer works, here's a book that will get you started with how
the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $25-$35 from Borders.com. See Amazon.com: Online Shopping for Electronics, Apparel, Computers, Books, DVDs & more .
Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search

Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the
book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.


Try Automotive Online Instruction for a beginning course. The course is very good and best of all, it is FREE!!!

3G 130 amp alternator conversion instructions - This will resolve any alternator problems you have - Stangnet 3G install sticky 3G Alternator Install:
A How To - Mustang Forums at StangNet

Here is a list of vehicles that have the 3G alternator, most are 130A, but some might be 110A:
94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
94-95 Mustang 5.0
94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
96 Sable 3.0 V-6
94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6


EFI to carb conversions are fine for a race track only car, but are a primitive hack job for a street car that orginally had a EFI
system installed.
There is a bunch of electrical work that needs to be done for a proper EFI to carb conversion that includes the fuel pump, ignition system
and instruments. There is no bolt on harness that magically coverts an EFI wired car to a carb car.

A word of warning on EFI to carb swaps: don’t expect to pass emissions in any state that does comprehensive
smog inspections, because it won’t happen. Be aware that you are violating several Federal laws concerning the removal of
pollution control equipment. If you operate the vehicle on public highways and get caught by state or federal law enforcement
(doubtful, but possible) you could be subject to fines and imprisonment. You won't get any more power from a carb than you will
from EFI.

slowstang271 said:

i really dont care about fedral law at all or law enforcment if i have to it will be a track only car but forget all the law bs that comes with modding a car..
that being said its not a lack of understanding of efi its the utter hate i have for it i came from 10 second imports and thats the reason im not into imports anymore to much of a head ach and not enough resale value..
my buddy is doing all the wiring on my car we are elimanating all efi wireing and unneeded plugs we are custom building a instrument cluster but everything fire wall back will be left in and working.
also i could get this car past emissions with 4 cats and a charcol can but most likly will be a track only car

Click to expand...

A common import ruuning 10 seconds - was that an 1/8 mile track?

You will never pass smog visual inspection without all the smog present and fully functional.