New to Slicks...

I also could use a lesson in drags...any info from the pros?

1: The depth of the hole(s) is used to measure the tread on the tire.

2: Probably don't need tubes. If the tires say tubeless, go with that. There are only a few slicks that need a tube setup.

3: BFG's aren't bad but Mickey's seem to be the preferred tire. I've rolled on a set of BFG drag radials and they were so/so, but by the time I acquired them they were well worn.


Slicks are a very bad choice for a daily driver tire. They were very fast (like... a set per few thousand miles) and if you ever hit wet roads, your chances of meeting a wall, ditch, or another vehicle are increased tenfold. If those are your intentions, about the most daily friendly, grippy tire you'll get is a Nitto 555R. They aren't the best at the track, but they hook hard on the street for some reason, last longer than the other drag radials/slicks, and offer some protection against wet conditions compared to others.

BurningRubber said:

Slicks are a very bad choice for a daily driver tire. They were very fast (like... a set per few thousand miles) and if you ever hit wet roads, your chances of meeting a wall, ditch, or another vehicle are increased tenfold. If those are your intentions, about the most daily friendly, grippy tire you'll get is a Nitto 555R. They aren't the best at the track, but they hook hard on the street for some reason, last longer than the other drag radials/slicks, and offer some protection against wet conditions compared to others.

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All they do for me at the track is wheel hop. They dead hook on the street though, for some reason. I haven't had the Cobra to the track, but it's got better controls arms and a panhard bar. I'll see if Nitto's will wheel hop on it this spring.

That's odd. How much of a burnout did you do? I hear they need to get really hot to work well at the strip.

SiahNyde said:

I also could use a lesson in drags...any info from the pros?

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A quick overview:

On street tires: Don't roll through the water at the burnout box. Go around it. Don't do a big, smokey burnout. Just spin the tires over a few times (no need to use the brakes to hold the car still) to spin the rocks/debris off.

Drag radials or slicks: I prefer to go around the water box and back the rear tires into it, spin them over in the water, pull forward, and light them up. Do a decently long, higher RPM burnout. 2nd gear is quickest and most effective in my opinion. Tires should produce a decent amount of smoke when they get good and hot.


Once you are done with either of the above, slowly pull forward until you trip the first yellow beam on the tree. After that, inch forward until the second yellow is tripped. Stop.

Watch for the tree to move from the second yellow to the "countdown" lights. It'll be three yellows that will count down to the green. As soon as the third yellow lights up, it's go time. By the time you hit the gas, you'll be as close to leaving on a green light as you're going to get. You may red-light a few times getting the hang of it, but practice and you'll cut great reaction times.

As far as launching the car...

Automatic: Find the "stall point", or the point at which the tires are about to break loose when you have your left foot on the brake, and your right foot lightly on the gas, slowly bringing the RPM up. This usually nets the best results. Or, you can just leave off idle. If you have traction issues, don't just stab the gas. Roll out for a few feet at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle then lay into it.

Manual: Find the "sweet spot". On a bolt on car with street tires, this is anywhere between 2k and higher depending on how well you hook. Dumping the clutch will likely produce wheel spin, but if you feather the clutch (even leaving from a higher RPM), you can usually get off the line pretty quick and then go wide open after you roll out for a few feet. The point of feathering the clutch is to get the car rolling before shocking it will the full power you would from dumping the clutch. If you have sticky tires, high RPM clutch dumps make for a hell of a ride... and broken parts, lol.

Shifting: Automatics are pretty much set it and forget it. Take it out of overdrive, though.

For a manual trans car, you want to shift about 2-400rpm over where your car starts to lose power. A good driver can feel when the power starts to fall off, and adjust from there. A non-PI GT will generally have a shift point of around 52-5400RPM, a PI GT 56-5800RPM, 4v around 64-6600RPM all in stock form. Each car can be a little different as far as what it likes, especially once you start modding. Play with the shift points and see what results in the best E.T.'s.

As far as shifting itself, for a manual trans car it's really a form of art. Only time and practice can improve your skills. DO NOT start off trying to powershift, or even shift lightning fast in general. You will damage/break something, more than likely. Get used to the feel of the clutch, the shift patterns, etc. The 2-3 shift is the one that messes the most people up. A good short throw shifter will have centering springs that will "help" you move the shifter from the 2-3 position.


There's more to it than that, but the important thing is going out there and having fun. Your first time to the track is usually your slowest, and it normally gets better from there on out. It is very addictive.

Thanks burning rubber! Awesome info!

I haven't gotten an opportunity to get to a strip yet but I'm hoping this next season I'll have the chance to put a few runs under my belt. I've been looking at some street radials like the nittos and bfgs, but haven't settled on a set yet. are they pretty much the same as drag tires far as the technique goes, or more like street tires?

BurningRubber said:

That's odd. How much of a burnout did you do? I hear they need to get really hot to work well at the strip.

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I would do pretty good smoky burnouts. The only time the 03 would wheel hop was with Nittos at the track, it never did it under any other condition. The 07 would wheel hop by just looking at the car.

SiahNyde said:

Thanks burning rubber! Awesome info!

I haven't gotten an opportunity to get to a strip yet but I'm hoping this next season I'll have the chance to put a few runs under my belt. I've been looking at some street radials like the nittos and bfgs, but haven't settled on a set yet. are they pretty much the same as drag tires far as the technique goes, or more like street tires?

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No problem, and thanks.

Yeah those tires are more like drag tires as far as how you treat them at the strip. They'll work best after a nice, hot burnout. Nitto's are the most street-friendly and will last the longest. If you're not planning on hitting the track often, I'd stick with them (555R's) no question. A really good street tire will hook decently as well, and offer longer tread life than a drag radial.

Nitto's seem to last 9k+ miles for those that don't beat them up every day, but people have worn through the BFG's and M/T's in 3k... aka a set of tires per oil change. Not worth it unless it's more of a dedicated track car, IMO.

FordTaurusSHO94 said:

I would do pretty good smoky burnouts. The only time the 03 would wheel hop was with Nittos at the track, it never did it under any other condition. The 07 would wheel hop by just looking at the car.

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That's weird. Maybe your quad shocks are dead? I've only gotten mine to hop a few times... once due to road conditions, and the other memorable time was in reverse. Thought I was going to tear the axle out, but that's a different story...

And...at the '07 comment, I know exactly what you mean... the 05+ cars are BAD about hop!