DIYautotune.com has even cheaper options if your willing to build the ecu yourself. I'm talking as little as 250$$$. the link i sent you is for an ecu that is completely encased.. ie. waterproof.
that means you can mount the ecu in the engine bay or fenderwell [behind the splashguard] and keep all your wiring mess out of the car. The only items this needs to run an engine are as follows..
-TPS signal
-ECT signal [engine coolant temp]
-ACT signal [air charge temp]
-Tach signal [wiring up the distributor] or if you want you can get rid of it and use an EDIS system from an explorer [coil packs no distributor]
-Injectors.
-iac motor [not necessary but controls idle]
this means the rest of the harness can be done away with, unless your running ac then i would leave the connectors for the compressor and pressure switches.
if you ever make a change to the engine, upgraded heads, boost of some kind, new intake.... there is no need to go pay for a tune to get the car to run right because you can just plug in your laptop and make the changes yourself.
oh and this makes a wire tuck much simpler.
that means you can mount the ecu in the engine bay or fenderwell [behind the splashguard] and keep all your wiring mess out of the car. The only items this needs to run an engine are as follows..
-TPS signal
-ECT signal [engine coolant temp]
-ACT signal [air charge temp]
-Tach signal [wiring up the distributor] or if you want you can get rid of it and use an EDIS system from an explorer [coil packs no distributor]
-Injectors.
-iac motor [not necessary but controls idle]
this means the rest of the harness can be done away with, unless your running ac then i would leave the connectors for the compressor and pressure switches.
if you ever make a change to the engine, upgraded heads, boost of some kind, new intake.... there is no need to go pay for a tune to get the car to run right because you can just plug in your laptop and make the changes yourself.
oh and this makes a wire tuck much simpler.