I purchased an 88 mustang lx convertible in the summer and have been slowly doing a few things here and there to it. Basics things like replacing the motor mounts, getting a new convertible top, new flowmaster exhaust with super 44 mufflers. Id like to increase the horsepower of the car but id like to know where to start. my first thought was to replace the headers and throw on some long tubes with an off road h pipe. although im from ontario and its illegal here im gonna just try and get away with it. Now my question is where do i go from here? ive been looking into the e303 cam as well. trying to somewhat work on a budget as well. The car also already has: aluminum driveshaft, 4.10 gears, bbk cold air intake. let me know. thanks
Fox New To The Forums. Need Opinions On My 88 Foxbody
- Thread starter Great88
- Start date
The very first thing a convertible needs before any engine rework is subframe connector rails. Properly done, they will stiffen up the body, improve handling and reduce the squeaks and rattles common to most convertibles.
The long tube headers have clearance problems with some cars. In some cases it is ground clearance and with others it is interference between the steering shaft and header tubes.
Some Ford Racing stainless steel short tube headers are your best bet for fit, finish and quality. They are also smog legal everyplace with the possible exception of California.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-9430-p50/overview/make/ford
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 1996 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
Explorer GT40 or GT 40P cylinder heads. The GT40 heads have 3 bars cast at the end of the head. GT 40 's will work with any header setup, they are found on the earlier model Explorers from 95 - 97 I believe. The GT 40P's are found on 98-2001 model cars and have 4 bars cast into the end of the cylinder head.. They need aftermarket headers designed to clear the angled spark plugs.
Whatever you GT$0 heads get, plan to replace the valve springs replaced with good quality aftermarket springs from someplace like Crane Cams or Competition Cams.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should or if you have an electric fan. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
*1.) Metal flange adapter http://www.kustomz.com/components.html Buy the TR70 for $40. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
The long tube headers have clearance problems with some cars. In some cases it is ground clearance and with others it is interference between the steering shaft and header tubes.
Some Ford Racing stainless steel short tube headers are your best bet for fit, finish and quality. They are also smog legal everyplace with the possible exception of California.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-9430-p50/overview/make/ford
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 1996 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
Explorer GT40 or GT 40P cylinder heads. The GT40 heads have 3 bars cast at the end of the head. GT 40 's will work with any header setup, they are found on the earlier model Explorers from 95 - 97 I believe. The GT 40P's are found on 98-2001 model cars and have 4 bars cast into the end of the cylinder head.. They need aftermarket headers designed to clear the angled spark plugs.
Whatever you GT$0 heads get, plan to replace the valve springs replaced with good quality aftermarket springs from someplace like Crane Cams or Competition Cams.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should or if you have an electric fan. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
*1.) Metal flange adapter http://www.kustomz.com/components.html Buy the TR70 for $40. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
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Avoid hacking up the smog equipment in a vain attempt to gain horsepower. All you'll succeed in doing is to make the computer spit all kinds of codes.
Everything on the list with a good tune is probably 250-265 HP at the flywheel, that's a conservative estimate..
You didn't say what kind of transmission you have, so I can't make a wild guess at the rear wheel HP.
At that point , you'll need a new fuel pump - 155 LPH is the best choice for a engine without pressurized induction.
Here's a MUST read book for EFI 5.0 pushrod Ford engines...
Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.
It's about $25-$50 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search. Try searching using M-1832-Z1 instead of the ISBN number if you don’t get any positive results. You may only be able to find a used one, since the book is as old as the cars it covers. Or you order it from your Ford dealer as SVO part no. M-1832-Z1.
Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.
Everything on the list with a good tune is probably 250-265 HP at the flywheel, that's a conservative estimate..
You didn't say what kind of transmission you have, so I can't make a wild guess at the rear wheel HP.
At that point , you'll need a new fuel pump - 155 LPH is the best choice for a engine without pressurized induction.
Here's a MUST read book for EFI 5.0 pushrod Ford engines...
Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.
It's about $25-$50 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search. Try searching using M-1832-Z1 instead of the ISBN number if you don’t get any positive results. You may only be able to find a used one, since the book is as old as the cars it covers. Or you order it from your Ford dealer as SVO part no. M-1832-Z1.
Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.
Throw out a relastic ballpark budget you have to work with and it'll be easier to tell ya where to spread the money around. The bolt-on stuff begins to add up and some of it is kinda a waste in my opinion if the budget is tight. The aluminum driveshaft for instance- not that cheap and zero horsepower gain. If you don't end up doing long tube headers stick with the stock headers, shorties aren't worth the money. If you have the money cylinder heads or a supercharger is where it's at. You'd gain more hp w stock everything else and a set of better flowing heads or a supercharger than you would if you had all the usual bolt on stuff, (i.e. cold air intake, larger throttle body, cat back exhaust, etc) and stock heads. Parts such as larger throttle bodies and mass air sensors are better to be looked at as horsepower supporting items rather than power making items. Many are unecessary to upgrade if you aren't making enough power to where the stock pieces become restrictions. If you don't have the money to do a full topend (remember to include the "supporting mods" in the budget) my vote for best bang for buck go fast part would be an intake manifold. I gained 20 hp from having the stock lower ported. It was cheaper than the combined costs of say under-drive pulleys, a cold air intake, and a larger throttle body and gained more. As far as the cam goes eh.. Without the rest of the supporting cast it's probably not worth messing with. After a stock rebuild and a cam similar to the e303 I made 205 hp, not that impressive but it sounded fast.. After I had the lower intake ported it made 225.
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Scroll through here and you can get an idea of what kind of power different combinations are making. The gt40 stuff is a fairly popular one. My quick opinion on them: if you can get the parts cheap enough and do your own labor it might be worth it but overall performance is a little lackluster if too much money gets involved. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/guess-my-h-p-the-dyno-1-4-mile-time-thread.677534/
Imo Find some good used tfs 170 alum heads over the gt40 stuff. The gt40's add up quick once you do the machine work,valve springs,etc. usually around 500-800$ total investment. Used tfs heads run right around 800$. They make more power,are lighter and easily modified for if/when you make more power. Also look for either the junkyard intake or again buy a used aftermarket intake. Stay away from under drive pulleys,cold air intakes that leave the filter inside the engine compartment,and like mentioned shorty headers do very little in producing power. Some free power is to bump the timing up to around 14* adv. Buy a code reader and make sure there are no codes. Also these cars love a steeper rear axle gear change. Most like 3.55-3.73 gear ratio. I believe it's the best mod you can do. Also DO NOT change the cam unless you do the heads and intake. It's a waste of time/money. There are a lot of better cams out there than an old Ford Motorsports alphabet cam like the e303. It's not the worst cam for a mild build.
the car is an automatic. i was looking to stick with the stock intake at least for a little bit. ive heard of people gaining decent hp off of long tubes, off road pipe and camshaft while on a budget. the budget would be around 2000-2500. trying to stay on the cheaper side of things since the car has some of the required components already. also trying to stay away from the supercharger for a little. the goal is about 300-350 hp without one. if thats possible any other suggestions? thanks so much for the help already too
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Don't expect to see those kind of numbers until you lose the stock intake. The key to making power with these cars is to let them breathe. Intake, heads, maf and throttle body are your biggest bottlenecks. Don't worry with headers until you've replaced the aforementioned. A cam is ok to do with heads and intake as a package, but like A5literman said, it's a waste without heads and intake.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Listen to what has been said- some very good advice. I have a 90 lx convert that I bought bone stock except for flowmasters and a K&N cone filter a few years back. It was ...................slow. I mean really slow. Mid 15 second slow.
Now, before you do anything determine what your goal, budget , and use is. Is this a DD, weekend or 2nd car?
Once you figure that out here is what I recommend doing in order- some of it is redundant to what has been said.
Regardless of what you do from here- address the Safety, brakes and suspension- go to maximum motorsports and read their tech pages. One of the best sites to learn about this and their tech guys are great. Yes, I use and recommend their parts as they are the best on the market and are US made.
Maximum Motorsports full length subframe connectors
Check the torque boxes- if they need attention - wild rides boxes
Replace worn sway bar, end link, front control arm bushings with quality poly ones
Repace motor mounts, trans mount with new OEM or poly
Quality shocks and springs- depends on what your goal is. DD? stick with the stock springs if not worn and a good replacement Monroe shock.
If lowering or a street/strip/weekend car, Steeda or H&R springs and some Tokico or Bilstein shocks.
If you want to spend the money, a good coilover setup;
Rear control arms- DD stick with stock ones with new oem bushings. If you want an upgrade. MM rear lowers and new stock 94-95 uppers.
Brakes-
if keeping the stock 4 lug drums. Again , MM sells a great upgrade kit with Hawk pads, shoes, stainless steel caliper bushings and stainless steel brake lines. Huge improvement over stock. Get a good set of OEM replacement rotors and drums from Rock Auto. No need for drilled or slotted rotors.
If going rear disc or 5 lug check the tech archive as that is a topic on its own.
Cooling-
stock- stock copper radiator and OEM fan
upgrade- good 2 core aluminum radiator and an electric fan
Charging- replace the stock alternator with a newer 3g 130 amp alternator and upgraded wiring kit. A must with an E fan
Trans-
get the biggest plate style trans cooler that will fit . I use a B&M mounted in front of my condensor.
Valve Body- call Dan at Silverfox and get one of his valve bodies.
For engine mods, you essentialy have a few choices- naturally aspirated or a power added
Naturally Aspirated- get a good set of heads- that is the most important piece of the puzzle. I would recommend either TFS 170 or AFR 165 heads on a stock block 302. For the cam, you will match that to your goal and build. Popular choices are TFS1, TFS2, Anderson N41, Comp Cams extreme cams, and custom cams by Ed Curtis, Buddy Rawls. Your choice of cam will dictate what valve springs on the heads to go with. TFS sells an entire top end kit for about $2800 that is popular and normally nets around 280-310 rwhp. Whatever you do, avoid the Ford alphabet cams. they are 25 year old technology.
Power Adder- you can do turbo , blower or nitrous and add anywhere from 50-125 hp on a stock motor safely. Nitrous will cost around 700-1000 but then you have to keep filling bottles. A good turbo or blower is around 2-3 grand.
Exhaust- I don't care if LT headers add 20 hp, on a street car don't do it. You will curse them every time you need to get to the starter, trans or if your car is lowered.
Obviously, when you start adding power, you will need to upgrade other areas like cooling, fuel delivery, brakes, etc. and it all can't be covered in one post. Take a look at my profile to see what I've added to my car. It has around 300 rwhp. You can find a lot of used go fast parts to help save money.
Edit:just saw your post. With a budget of only 2500 the only way you are getting near 300 rwhp on an AOD is either a carefully matched top end kit or a power adder- and that is buying them used. Along with that you will need to upgrade your MAF, injectors, throttle body. fuel pump, exhaust, valve body or shift kit, and with an AOD you WILL need a tune that is another few hundred.
Now, before you do anything determine what your goal, budget , and use is. Is this a DD, weekend or 2nd car?
Once you figure that out here is what I recommend doing in order- some of it is redundant to what has been said.
Regardless of what you do from here- address the Safety, brakes and suspension- go to maximum motorsports and read their tech pages. One of the best sites to learn about this and their tech guys are great. Yes, I use and recommend their parts as they are the best on the market and are US made.
Maximum Motorsports full length subframe connectors
Check the torque boxes- if they need attention - wild rides boxes
Replace worn sway bar, end link, front control arm bushings with quality poly ones
Repace motor mounts, trans mount with new OEM or poly
Quality shocks and springs- depends on what your goal is. DD? stick with the stock springs if not worn and a good replacement Monroe shock.
If lowering or a street/strip/weekend car, Steeda or H&R springs and some Tokico or Bilstein shocks.
If you want to spend the money, a good coilover setup;
Rear control arms- DD stick with stock ones with new oem bushings. If you want an upgrade. MM rear lowers and new stock 94-95 uppers.
Brakes-
if keeping the stock 4 lug drums. Again , MM sells a great upgrade kit with Hawk pads, shoes, stainless steel caliper bushings and stainless steel brake lines. Huge improvement over stock. Get a good set of OEM replacement rotors and drums from Rock Auto. No need for drilled or slotted rotors.
If going rear disc or 5 lug check the tech archive as that is a topic on its own.
Cooling-
stock- stock copper radiator and OEM fan
upgrade- good 2 core aluminum radiator and an electric fan
Charging- replace the stock alternator with a newer 3g 130 amp alternator and upgraded wiring kit. A must with an E fan
Trans-
get the biggest plate style trans cooler that will fit . I use a B&M mounted in front of my condensor.
Valve Body- call Dan at Silverfox and get one of his valve bodies.
For engine mods, you essentialy have a few choices- naturally aspirated or a power added
Naturally Aspirated- get a good set of heads- that is the most important piece of the puzzle. I would recommend either TFS 170 or AFR 165 heads on a stock block 302. For the cam, you will match that to your goal and build. Popular choices are TFS1, TFS2, Anderson N41, Comp Cams extreme cams, and custom cams by Ed Curtis, Buddy Rawls. Your choice of cam will dictate what valve springs on the heads to go with. TFS sells an entire top end kit for about $2800 that is popular and normally nets around 280-310 rwhp. Whatever you do, avoid the Ford alphabet cams. they are 25 year old technology.
Power Adder- you can do turbo , blower or nitrous and add anywhere from 50-125 hp on a stock motor safely. Nitrous will cost around 700-1000 but then you have to keep filling bottles. A good turbo or blower is around 2-3 grand.
Exhaust- I don't care if LT headers add 20 hp, on a street car don't do it. You will curse them every time you need to get to the starter, trans or if your car is lowered.
Obviously, when you start adding power, you will need to upgrade other areas like cooling, fuel delivery, brakes, etc. and it all can't be covered in one post. Take a look at my profile to see what I've added to my car. It has around 300 rwhp. You can find a lot of used go fast parts to help save money.
Edit:just saw your post. With a budget of only 2500 the only way you are getting near 300 rwhp on an AOD is either a carefully matched top end kit or a power adder- and that is buying them used. Along with that you will need to upgrade your MAF, injectors, throttle body. fuel pump, exhaust, valve body or shift kit, and with an AOD you WILL need a tune that is another few hundred.
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^^^ well said mike. Op you should also read the sticky post at the top of this forum entitled:most frequently asked questions.
If you do a cam and headers alone you could run SLOWER than stock! Have less drivability and if removing the catalytic converters create a gas fumed smelly ride. Mikes previous post is dead nuts to what you should do. To make power you have to increase your engines breathing ability on the intake side first ie MAF,tb,intake manifold and most importantly the heads. Stock heads just plain suck.
Best bang for your 2000$ budget to improve performance imo are the following:
1.follow mikes instructions on the Trans,subframe connectors,and brakes.
2.install a deeper gear in the rearend(autos love 3.73 or 4.10s)
3.save more $$ and address the engine later.
The trans and gear change will really improve acceleration. You will feel a difference. More so than the cam/headers by themselves.
If you do a cam and headers alone you could run SLOWER than stock! Have less drivability and if removing the catalytic converters create a gas fumed smelly ride. Mikes previous post is dead nuts to what you should do. To make power you have to increase your engines breathing ability on the intake side first ie MAF,tb,intake manifold and most importantly the heads. Stock heads just plain suck.
Best bang for your 2000$ budget to improve performance imo are the following:
1.follow mikes instructions on the Trans,subframe connectors,and brakes.
2.install a deeper gear in the rearend(autos love 3.73 or 4.10s)
3.save more $$ and address the engine later.
The trans and gear change will really improve acceleration. You will feel a difference. More so than the cam/headers by themselves.
Auto Trans cars may have clearance problems with long tube headers. The header tubes and collectors don't clear the torque converter or transmission housing.
Check with the header manufacturer BEFORE you buy them
Check with the header manufacturer BEFORE you buy them
I already have 4.10 gears in the car. The reason i mentioned replacing the headers and midpipe is because they are the original ones from 88 and my mechanic suggested i get them replaced when i have the chance cuz they're that bad. As far as subframe connectors go that i should keep in mind. Whether or not the intake and heads are stock replacing the cam would gain me a hp increase with a tune wouldnt it?
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Once again, the heads and intake on these cars are a MAJOR RESTRICTION. A camshaft will open the valves further and longer, but what good will that be if the tiny factory heads won't let them flow the air? It is not worth the time and money. Listen to the advice here. You'll be glad you did.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Let me be as clear as I can. With the stock intake, heads, and cam you will get very little benefit out of changing the exhaust. Keeping the stock heads, intake, throttle body, mass air and changing the cam is a waste of time and money. If you are going to do it, do it once- change the heads, intake, throttle body, and if needed the cam. That will dictate if you need to go with bigger injectors and MAF.
If you NEED to replace the exhaust then get a good set of unequal length 1 5/8" shorty headers like the Ford stainless steel ones. For the midpipe if you do NOT have catalytic converters then get an H pipe. If you have your original smog equipment and cats on, then your choices are a replacement or aftermarket. catted mid pipe.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Go back and read the posts again. The answers are there. What is your budget and goal.
the budget would be between 1500-2500 bucks but that being the limit for now at least. Would a different intake say between edelbrock or trickflow or what not cause any difference of sound or power compared to each other? might be a stupid question but i am a beginner at this. As far as goal goes id like 300 but from what im hearing the more realistic side with a budget like mine would be 250
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Here is the benchmark starter kit, brand new: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K514-360350B/
Now, personally, I wouldn't buy that new, because there are too many good used parts for sale out there. If you hustle, you can probably get all of that for 50 cents on the dollar used. I'm not partial to edelbrock intakes or trick flow, but try to match them to your heads. they are engineered to work together. Icouldn't tell you any hp difference on the two intakes, I know the TFS combo makes more hp. My edelbrock combo, however, makes over 500 at the flywheel, with 10 psi of boost.
Now, personally, I wouldn't buy that new, because there are too many good used parts for sale out there. If you hustle, you can probably get all of that for 50 cents on the dollar used. I'm not partial to edelbrock intakes or trick flow, but try to match them to your heads. they are engineered to work together. Icouldn't tell you any hp difference on the two intakes, I know the TFS combo makes more hp. My edelbrock combo, however, makes over 500 at the flywheel, with 10 psi of boost.
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