New (used) EEC, got codes to pull.... stumped.

Rick's Fords

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Dec 25, 2004
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With the key on engine off, I get a 22 and what I thought was an 11. With the engine on, I get 22 and 98. From the 98 I'm guessing there's no way I got an 11. What gives.

I'm half tempted to let it go for $500 just to get a small truck a friend has. I need my transportation, I have a family to support.
 
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i was reading some of your post from last few days. so your car is a 88 (is it a maps or mass airflow) and you have a 87 computer in it. It was running fine on that computer then it started to just die after it was running for a couple seconds?
 
I've had the car for about a year and a half now, everything was fine. It had a slight miss when I put a load on the motor, so I went to pull codes, and accidenlty jumped a hot wire to the computer test ground. Figuring the computer was fried because of the way the car started running, I replaced the computer. Same thing, except now I can get codes.

The car has an 87 EEC, the car is an 88, no MAF, so SD. It is sounding like I just dumped a big ass cam into it, smoking black (fuel), and will not hold a steady throttle.

I'm so aggrivated with this situation right now.
 
you know it sounds like your maps sensor is fried. sounds like it is going into limp mode and pouring the fuel to the car because it canot get the correct vaccuum off the intake. This happened to me with my SD cougar once. My cats plugged off the engine had to vent and it ended up venting through numerous vaccuum lines which caused them to melt. My car used 3/4 of a tank of gas in like 45 min and had no power. Turns out after the cats were pulled and the vaccuum lines were reconnected (one going to the maps) my car ran fine again. Any chance the vaccuum line was bumped off?
 
If the MAP sensor is the one I'm thinking of, sits right behind the upper intake, 1 vaccum hose, 1 plug, maybe 3" tall and 2" wide, then no, I've checked that vaccum line on the sensor side several times. I'm not 100% sure it's still connected under the manifold.

I'm wondering if it's possible me jumping those two wires together could have thrown it out of whack, or just fried it.

I had the car running, and unplugged said sensor, and the idle went up, that was basically it. Is there any way for me to test this?
 
there must be a voltage test on the maps but i'm not sure. You could go to a junk yard and pull one off a tarus or a cougar i believe the 3.8L v-6's use the same sensor and test to see if yours is hooped.
 
Code 98 - basic computer internal tests not passed before it started processing the request to dump codes. Do a Key On Engine Off test before starting the engine. Wait until you see the 11 flash before pressing any buttons if you have a hand operated scanner. The computer is operating in Limp mode, so fix any codes it dumps prior to doing anything else.

It's limp, I got my first giggle for the day out of that.
 
You can run electrical tests on the MAP - I think Jrichker has a mini-write-up about doing it (I'd have to look the stuff up and can if requested).

A car with a dead MAP will run as described - like total eye-watering dinosaur crap. Please do ensure that the wiring to the MAP is good though. It'd suck to spend money on a sensor when it's the wiring that's jacked.

Good luck.