Newbie looking for advice

V

voodooRunner

New Member

Oct 21, 2009

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Oct 25, 2009

#1

• Oct 25, 2009

• #1

Hi, new to the forum.

I've been searching all over the place for a '65-66 fastback, V8, 4spd manual, with PS and PB, but they all seem to be either the wrong configuration or the wrong price.

I'd like the power steering and brakes, but if I find a nice car without them at a good price, would it be easy to do the conversions, or should I just hold out? I don't mind doing the work, but only if everything kind of 'bolts right in.' I don't want to start really tweaking and modifying an original car.

I found a '66 with a 302 motor which the guy thought was from a '73 or '74, but again, manual steering and brakes. Not sure what to do.

Any opinions?

 

2

2+2GT

10 Year Member

Apr 25, 2009

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Southeastern Pennsylvania

Oct 25, 2009

#2

• Oct 25, 2009

• #2

You're looking at about $400 for the power brake booster, and about $950 for everything you need for power steering in a 65-66.

 

hivewax

Member

Jan 1, 2006

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Miami, FL

Oct 25, 2009

#3

• Oct 25, 2009

• #3

I went the opposite direction... looked for all manual... simple. You won't always find what your looking for.

 

V

voodooRunner

New Member

Oct 21, 2009

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Oct 25, 2009

#4

• Oct 25, 2009

• #4

It's been about 15 years since I drove manual steering and never manual brakes, but I guess I can give them a try if my car comes that way and do the conversions if I really need my modern conveniences.

But in both cases I wouldn't have to modify any or the original components of the car? Just buy kits/replacement parts and install?

And expect to spend about $1500-2k in total for both PS and P Disc B setups?

Thanks.

 

2

2+2GT

10 Year Member

Apr 25, 2009

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Southeastern Pennsylvania

Oct 25, 2009

#5

• Oct 25, 2009

• #5

voodooRunner said:

It's been about 15 years since I drove manual steering and never manual brakes, but I guess I can give them a try if my car comes that way and do the conversions if I really need my modern conveniences.

But in both cases I wouldn't have to modify any or the original components of the car? Just buy kits/replacement parts and install?

And expect to spend about $1500-2k in total for both PS and P Disc B setups?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

The number I gave was for power boost, not disc conversion. Unless the car will be driven for performance, disc is unnecessary. (heresy, I know)

If you are good with tools, you'll be fine. The kits I would recommend are bolt-on. I have seen a lot of brake booster conversions that were crap, be careful what you choose. Get the factory service manual when you get the car.

Check your pm's.

 

V

voodooRunner

New Member

Oct 21, 2009

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Oct 25, 2009

#6

• Oct 25, 2009

• #6

no pm's received.

Thanks for all the info. So it looks like manual steering and brakes isn't necessarily a deal breaker when searching for my '65-66 fastback.

I'll be back when the hunt is over (probably even sooner).

While the thread is fresh, though, which bolt-on kits would you recommend?

 

2

2+2GT

10 Year Member

Apr 25, 2009

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Southeastern Pennsylvania

Oct 25, 2009

#7

• Oct 25, 2009

• #7

voodooRunner said:

While the thread is fresh, though, which bolt-on kits would you recommend?

Click to expand...

Get the OEM style booster for 64-66 from Glazier Nolan. They can also provide complete PS conversion for you. GN has been restoring these cars over 30 years, so if you have any questions they can help you out.

 

C

chockostang

New Member

Jun 16, 2009

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Oct 26, 2009

#8

• Oct 26, 2009

• #8

Installing, Fitting Power Steering, Disc Brakes on the 65-70 Mustangs can be a Very Easy, Exact Fit, Painless job if Done the Assembly Line/Factory way.

All will bolt on without Cutting, Welding, FORCE Fitting, and better yet, if replacement parts were to be needed years from now, all you need to remember is the year of your classic.

With made up, Non Stock Steering, Brakes, a laundry list of Parts Pieces, (So Homemade you'll never get years from now), will need to be kept somewhere so you will know what was used.

A Good weekend mechanic can install these easy, a Mechanically challenged individual will never get them on with their Screw drive set, Buffalo Socket set, and 15 Manuals.

Dan

Classic Mustang Disc Brake Conversions and Power Steering

 

2

2+2GT

10 Year Member

Apr 25, 2009

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Southeastern Pennsylvania

Oct 26, 2009

#9

• Oct 26, 2009

• #9

chockostang said:

With made up, Non Stock Steering, Brakes, a laundry list of Parts Pieces, (So Homemade you'll never get years from now), will need to be kept somewhere so you will know what was used.

Click to expand...

This is why I usually recommend OE systems for steering and brakes. Unless you have a compelling reason to go with 12" brakes, R&P, etc., it's just not worth the future hassle of mix-and-match every time you need to replace something. The original PS and discs were pretty darn good. It's bad maintenance and bogus parts that make problems for people.

 

JonK

Member

Jun 6, 2007

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Nashville (Smyrna), TN

Oct 26, 2009

#10

• Oct 26, 2009

• #10

If you find a car with manual steering and brakes I'd work on the brakes first. The early year cars are pretty light comparitavely. The addition of a roller idler arm: Opentracker Racing Products - Roller Idler Arms
makes a big difference from what I've read by those who have installed.
Stay reasonable on the width of the front tires and it's not bad to turn as long as the wheels are moving at all. Make sure the rest of the steering is up to snuff (fairly new and lubed tie rods, etc., fresh grease in the steering gearbox or a rebuild for the box, box adjusted properly, etc.)

As mentioned PDB aren't hard to add and were an option then. Drums can be adjusted to work fairly well but panic stops can be a panic...they always seem to pull, when they're wet they're worthless and they'll fade faster than disc on repeated use, disc is an improvement especially when you get out of a newer car and into your classic.
Just my .02
Jon

 

V

voodooRunner

New Member

Oct 21, 2009

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Oct 26, 2009

#11

• Oct 26, 2009

• #11

Thanks guys. Exactly what I was looking for.

One more question related to my original post. I had mentioned that I was looking at a '66 with a 302 which I'm thinking is probably from '73. I know that stricter emissions regulations were being enforced at the time and so the CR dropped and HP suffered.

Is that any reason to stay away from this engine? Or is this easily accommodated? Or would I even really notice much of a difference say between a '73 302, a '68 302, or even a '66 289?