Barely runs at 14. But when I go a tooth forward on the distributor, the car wont start. Thinking I went the wrong way, I went two teeth back, and it also wouldnt start. When I put it back in the middle, it starts, idles like it has been, but runs and revs and shows 40+ degrees. Im starting to hate this car.
Did this engine run when you bought it?... all of this is starting to sound like a cam timing issue to me.
Well, I'll tell you. I moved the pointer ahead one tooth, but left the housing advanced where it had been. That is why the car wouldnt start. When I twisted the housing back, it started. I now am reading 16* (felt better than 14* driving), and have the distributor on the right damned tooth.
Other things I did. Put one wrap of black duct tape around the base of the PCV valve. It now fits nice and snug inside the grommet.
I clocked the MAF 90* for
I disconnected the hose from my filler neck to my intake tract. Remember, my throttle body doesnt have the vacuum fitting for it. I plugged the hose to prevent a vac leak at the intake tract, but left the breather hole open. This seems to be the ticket. The car now starts and idles dead solid at 850-900 rpms.
My next order of business is a better throttle body. I feel like that will have my problems pretty well nailed down, assuming I can hook the vacuum hose to it from the valve cover, and the car still runs. I dont know why my intake tract solution doesnt work as it does on an Explorer.
Also, with the car running correctly, I went out and fried the clutch. Well, I guessed it was already fried from my first outting where it was misadjusted, but I confirmed its fried now. First gear spun and the car went sideways quick, second gear went straight abrubtly, and the clutch fry commenced. Its ok, it was a free clutch from the PO of the engine.
Hey, I might even have learned to upload a vid to Youtube!
View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=B6obEzsztcw
One tooth forward or back makes no difference. You just spin the dist to compensate. In theory if the intake wasn't in the way you could just stab the dist anywhere and rotate the housing until it starts abs then time it from there.,
Did you ever pull the timing cover? I wonder if the cam wasn't installed or degreed correctly
Did you ever pull the timing cover? I wonder if the cam wasn't installed or degreed correctly
Right, but I was leaving the base of the distributor in the same position for the most part.
No, I never pulled the timing cover and have no idea what degree Woody put the cam at.
In the end, I think my PCV situation was the biggest problem. Rather than drill my existing TB for the elbow, I want to find a used Accufab 70 mm. I appreciate you holding on to it for me, but I think a 70 mm will better suit the engine.
I am also less likely to fck it up that way.
Last edited:
Trust me, leaves in the garage annoy the hell out of me. Those were all from having the door open today. My neighbor has big trees, and doesnt bother to tend to the leaves all that well. They are already picked up, dont you worry Mr Thief.
Cool looks like things are looking up. Fwiw when my EFI acts up (same as @CarMichael Angelo carmichsetup) I open my laptop and plug it in, then I just read everything. Nothing is a mystery after the laptop opens.
I have been keeping a close eye out for a used 70mm Accufab TB, and just snagged one today. They certainly hold their value.
On another note, I am trying to decide on a clutch. There are so many similar ones out there... I am leaning toward the Exedy Mach 400 Stage 2 on American Muscle. Says it holds 475 lb ft, and seems to have good reviews for the price.
Lastly, I need tail pipes, but I dont want the same ol' same. There is a mild steel kit on Ebay I am considering. Its non aluminized, so how does that hold up long term @CarMichael Angelo ? I will either be painting it, or having it coated, so I think it'll be fine, eh? I was pretty disappointed in my local exhaust shop. They have done some cool jobs for me before, but when I asked if I could have them bend me a few pipes and I would take them home and piece them together myself, I got a
On another note, I am trying to decide on a clutch. There are so many similar ones out there... I am leaning toward the Exedy Mach 400 Stage 2 on American Muscle. Says it holds 475 lb ft, and seems to have good reviews for the price.
Lastly, I need tail pipes, but I dont want the same ol' same. There is a mild steel kit on Ebay I am considering. Its non aluminized, so how does that hold up long term @CarMichael Angelo ? I will either be painting it, or having it coated, so I think it'll be fine, eh? I was pretty disappointed in my local exhaust shop. They have done some cool jobs for me before, but when I asked if I could have them bend me a few pipes and I would take them home and piece them together myself, I got a
The aluminized coating is on the outside. It was intended to be left alone w/o over-coating to avoid corrosion. Obviously painting or coating it will take care of that.
And I've had a 70 mm TB for sale since I decided to convert over...Obviously,you haven't been keeping a "close enough" eye.