Nick's "lvndpst" Restoration (and Slight Modification) Thread

[95BlueStallion]

I’d like to just have the wideband mounted permanently. I think I will try trimming the bung a little in its current location and see what happens. If nothing changes I will plug the current bung and weld in a new one up beside the factory O2. Thanks for your input Steve.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

So I learned two things tonight. 1) Never be too lazy to install O2 sensors sans anti seize. My threads on both the bung and Motorcraft O2 sensor ended up fubared getting it out just to interchange with the wideband. I did swap the two threading them super lightly, and the wideband showed 13.x to 14.x at idle. 2) @a91what knows his .

That being said... Innovate’s instructions state to install the bung at least 24” down stream from the exhaust port on the head, but ahead of the H or X in the midpipe. Pretty vague... My initial install was only 4” downstream from the factory O2 sensor in the H. Where should I install the new one Steve? Where on the down pipe, and what orientation from the factory O2 sensor?

Now here's the wrench to throw into your spokes......

You're gonna have to remove that WB sensor occasionally to free air calibrate it..How bad were the threads on the thing?

 

[Mustang5L5]

My intention is to just ditch one of the factory o2s and run the wide band in its place with the MS3.

Eventually I'll prob run two wide bands

 

[95BlueStallion]

Now here's the wrench to throw into your spokes......

You're gonna have to remove that WB sensor occasionally to free air calibrate it..How bad were the threads on the thing?

The wideband came out flawlessly. It was my Motorcraft O2 sensor that got all messed up. I was able to thread it back in fully to the fubarred bung, which is why I have no desire to swap the sensors around again for tuning purposes. I want to get my wideband to work reliably while leaving the car’s O2’s alone.

 

[95BlueStallion]

My intention is to just ditch one of the factory o2s and run the wide band in its place with the MS3.

Eventually I'll prob run two wide bands

See I am way too feeble minded for all this. I like to keep things simple. No need for COP ignition, trigger wheels, home built ECU’s, etc. the Microsquirt is getting wired up so my guy can tune my stock ignitioned 347, and I’m gonna drive the hell out of it.

I do get that you enjoy the process of building the MS3 though, so more power to ya man!

 

[Mustang5L5]

See I am way too feeble minded for all this. I like to keep things simple. No need for COP ignition, trigger wheels, home built ECU’s, etc. the Microsquirt is getting wired up so my guy can tune my stock ignitioned 347, and I’m gonna drive the hell out of it.

I do get that you enjoy the process of building the MS3 though, so more power to ya man!

But even with the simple, stock TFI equipped setup, you can still do that. The microsquirt is ONLY going to pull data from the one wideband O2 sensor. The stock sensors won't be used anymore. SO if you never intend to go back to the stock ECU setup ever again, there's really no reason to keep them. That's what I was getting at more or less and I think that's why Steve was asking how long before you change over to the microsquirt.

I'm not sure the microsquirt can do 2 widebands.

 

[95BlueStallion]

But even with the simple, stock TFI equipped setup, you can still do that. The microsquirt is ONLY going to pull data from the one wideband O2 sensor. The stock sensors won't be used anymore. SO if you never intend to go back to the stock ECU setup ever again, there's really no reason to keep them. That's what I was getting at more or less and I think that's why Steve was asking how long before you change over to the microsquirt.

I'm not sure the microsquirt can do 2 widebands.

Hmmm, @a91what , is this what you were getting at? Swap the wideband into the factory O2 sensor bung permanently because the stand alone system is eliminating the factory O2’s all together? If that’s the case I could try to remove my right bank factory O2 and install the wideband there.. I have the Microsquirt ready to go in. I thought you were saying to swap them only temporarily for tuning.

 

[a91what]

yup, swap it permanently... the micro can only use one O2 input. the factory O2 harness can be removed altogether actually... unless you use the oil level sender. If the car is an auto you want to remove the jumper wire in the O2 harness or pin it for the stick. I have had to troubleshoot issues where the PO did a 5speed swap using the auto O2 harness and left the A9P in place... once the MS went in the O2 harness placed 12v on the MS signal ground, the MS has a robust SG blocking diode so no issues with killing it but the sensors would give false feedback readings. I have some datalogs of this happening if you want to see some weird ish happening on a datastream.

 

[KZGUNS]

Pick up an o2 bung tap. I had one that was pretty bad and running the tap threw it a few times fixed it up.

 

[General karthief]

Just plug that bish with a piece of wood

 

[95BlueStallion]

yup, swap it permanently... the micro can only use one O2 input. the factory O2 harness can be removed altogether actually... unless you use the oil level sender. If the car is an auto you want to remove the jumper wire in the O2 harness or pin it for the stick. I have had to troubleshoot issues where the PO did a 5speed swap using the auto O2 harness and left the A9P in place... once the MS went in the O2 harness placed 12v on the MS signal ground, the MS has a robust SG blocking diode so no issues with killing it but the sensors would give false feedback readings. I have some datalogs of this happening if you want to see some weird ish happening on a datastream.

I trust your word brother, lol. Showing me would go right over my head. See my feeble mind comment from before.

That said, I have a manual trans. Am I safe to just tape off the O2 sensor connectors and leave them? I don’t have the desire to remove the wiring if I don’t really need to.

 

[a91what]

I trust your word brother, lol. Showing me would go right over my head. See my feeble mind comment from before.

That said, I have a manual trans. Am I safe to just tape off the O2 sensor connectors and leave them? I don’t have the desire to remove the wiring if I don’t really need to.

yup that perfectly fine.

 

[95BlueStallion]

Cool, thank you for your guidance Steve.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Cool, thank you for your guidance Steve.

Put on your big boy pants, and wade into the water with the rest of us. Stop being a flip phone wuss.

 

[95BlueStallion]

Yeah, about that Mike. The Microsquirt instructions aren’t very clear for the wideband integration and I’m already frustrated that I have to ask for help with a six wire set up... The f*ck is 6”n??? I assume that is referencing the pink wire off the MS connector.

Two things: I already have my wideband all set up on the left side, as I started on it before receiving the MS and it’s corresponding instructions.

Secondly. I don’t want to tap into my factory O2 harness. I want to run the needed trigger wire from my wideband sensor directly to that pink wire off the MS. However I don’t know which wire to tap as far as the wideband source goes. The Innovate instructions don’t really spell that part out as everything there was plug n play except a power source and ground essentially. This electrical is for all you guys and the birds. I’m gonna go back to turning wrenches and practicing my welds.

 

[a91what]

Yeah, about that Mike. The Microsquirt instructions aren’t very clear for the wideband integration and I’m already frustrated that I have to ask for help with a six wire set up...

Two things: I already have my wideband all set up on the left side, as I started on it before receiving the MS and it’s corresponding instructions.

Secondly. I don’t want to tap into my factory O2 harness. I want to run the needed trigger wire from my wideband sensor directly to that pink wire off the MS. However I don’t which wire to tap as far as the wideband source goes. This electrical is for all you guys and the birds. I’m gonna go back to turning wrenches and practicing my welds.

run the analog output from the WB into the pink wire.... thats it. for the wiring part... the instructions are for usage of the factory O2 connection, just unplug the factory O2 sensors and your all set.

 

[95BlueStallion]

run the analog output from the WB into the pink wire.... thats it. for the wiring part... the instructions are for usage of the factory O2 connection, just unplug the factory O2 sensors and your all set.

Ok, that narrows it down. Now looking at the instructions below, which analog output do I use, yellow or brown?

Also, it says the LC-2’s ground should share the ground with what I am feeding the output to (the Microsquirt). The Microsquirt has no ground wire for me to run to a common ground. I assume it’s ground is somewhere in the nice neat cluster of wires between it and where it hooks up to my factory ECU...

 

[a91what]

ground the lc2 at the battery - terminal as per innovate last i emailed them [ the ecu grounds take the ground to the connection on the fender apron near the battery ] use the yellow wire to the pink input wire on the MS

 

[95BlueStallion]

Baby steps are the name of my game. Tonight I removed and plugged my right side O2 sensor and bung, as well as plugged my wideband sensor bung on the left side. Nothing like adding something you don’t even need. Rookie! The wideband is now installed in place of my left side factory O2 sensor. I taped up the O2 harness connectors really well and zip tied them securely out of the way.

I then moved back and installed my new factory style upper rear control arms, removing the BMR poly bushing ones. If anyone wants the BMR’s PM me.

I did these things because I was waiting for paint to dry on my MAP sensor bracket. You hear that @CarMichael Angelo ? I thought of you tonight. I removed my BAP sensor from under hood, and it’s bracket was patina’d. I thought, “Mike would like if I gave that bracket some attention before I just bolt the MAP sensor to it and move on.”

Then I installed it in my dirty assed engine bay. One day when this car runs correctly, that bay will be detailed. Until then it’s just dirty. Sorry buddy.

That’s it for tonight. I’m buying new bolts and nuts for my Eibach rear sway bar tomorrow. Will toss it on and then I can put the car on the ground and move it to create room on the passenger side to access the ECU and finish the Microsquirt install.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Baby steps are the name of my game. Tonight I removed and plugged my right side O2 sensor and bung, as well as plugged my wideband sensor bung on the left side. Nothing like adding something you don’t even need. Rookie! The wideband is now installed in place of my left side factory O2 sensor. I taped up the O2 harness connectors really well and zip tied them securely out of the way.

I then moved back and installed my new factory style upper rear control arms, removing the BMR poly bushing ones. If anyone wants the BMR’s PM me.

I did these things because I was waiting for paint to dry on my MAP sensor bracket. You hear that @CarMichael Angelo ? I thought of you tonight. I removed my BAP sensor from under hood, and it’s bracket was patina’d. I thought, “Mike would like if I gave that bracket some attention before I just bolt the MAP sensor to it and move on.”

Then I installed it in my dirty assed engine bay. One day when this car runs correctly, that bay will be detailed. Until then it’s just dirty. Sorry buddy.

That’s it for tonight. I’m buying new bolts and nuts for my Eibach rear sway bar tomorrow. Will toss it on and then I can put the car on the ground and move it to create room on the passenger side to access the ECU and finish the Microsquirt install.

Whichever idiot ever came up with the word patina, and decided to use it to describe an early form of oxidation, needs to be forced to replace rotted out frame rails on some rusty, haagged out crap car for the rest of their working lives.

Maybe then, rust will be rust.

What can I say? You saw it, it was fcked up, you fixed it.

Good job?