Nick's "lvndpst" Restoration (and Slight Modification) Thread

[95BlueStallion]

well,...(and I don't know nothin bout the valve adjusting process on a stock 5.0) Your spec sheet called for a 6.700" length pushrod. When checking, it looks like the stock length is between 6.248, and 6.300"
do you have those comp gold rockers on these heads, and are your rockers fully adjustable?

The first thing I'd want to know is what is so different in your setup that you need a pushrod that is .400" longer than stock?
Not that that is causing you your problem this time, but when there is that much difference between stock and what you got, I'm just wondering why the diff?

The cam itself is purely a street cam, seems to have a decent amount of duration, and should be a little bit rough idle,....also, wondering what the stock ECU does when it has to deal with that.

What does a vacuum gauge tell you when the engine is idling?

If the setup was for a freakin carburetor, why did you change it? A carburetor isn't the end of the world,...it's been the way to fix phcked up frustrating EFI for years now. I'll tell you this:

If I had a 347 in the car, and was considering changing the thing back to stock because it's running bad,.what makes you so sure that a 5.0 stocker will run any different? Especially if you are running any of the stuff in the 347?

Let me see...........* The dilemma

Admit I can't/don't want to either fix what's wrong, and change the entire thing back to stock....

or.....

Put a carb on the 347.


Give me a minute................


" Uhhh Hello? Mr. Holley?....I need a 4776 please"

Maf? what the hell is that for? 30 # injectors? sounds like a big waste of time? Stupid expensive F.I injection manifold?....What a way to make up the necessary fundage for the carb swap...Salt and pepper shakers? belongs on the kitchen table. Throttle body?,....maybe it'll be a cool piece of art to add to your bent flexplate table ornament..

If I had it all to do over, The whole MS2 thing would be still sitting on the shelf at DIY. A carb (or in my most recent iteration) carb(s) would be on the engine....It's an amazing little thingy that has been working with almost no changes for 100 years....It's still what allows restricted intake engines to make 800 HP in NASCAR, still the fuel metering choice of 99% of N/A drag racers, and would be what the Monster breathes through, If I'd had one minutes worth of trouble with the current setup.

I know man, an intake swap and throwing on a carb crossed my mind. I still have the carb distributor he sent me too. I really want it to run EFI since the car came EFI from the factory. The whole set up is paid for, although it wouldnt hurt my feelings getting all that money back. The thing about going back to stock is that it ran pretty well in stock form, just not above 3500 RPMs. The gas tank was full of rust, Im sure the fuel filter was horribly clogged. Now I have a whole new fuel system, and with a fresh rebuild, I bet it would run fine. Keeping the stock cam, and just bumping the CI to 306, the ECU wouldnt need tuned. A fresh well mannered car sounds better than a bucking, non idling car that a rookie like me will struggle to sort out.

 

[95BlueStallion]

Can you describe the way it runs? Does it idle decently? Does it break apart through out the rpms or just have sluggish delayed acceleration? Are you sure there is no slipped intake gasket or other vacuum leaks?
I am with you on electronics I hate diagnostics but I’d start there.

The idle is so irratic, I dont know where to start. One time it will start and idle fine right at 1k rpms. The next try it will surge from 800 to 2k. Doesnt matter if cold or operating temp, doesnt seem to make a difference either way. Upon returning from the car wash, it was idling fine parked on the curb, and after about a minute sitting there fine it started surging hardcore.

As far as driving, same kind of thing. Initially bucked like a MF in every gear under 2500 RPM, but then half way to the car wash it smoothed out. I thought sweet, its learning. Then I come to a stop at a light, and it starts surging, and then bucked its way to the car wash from there.

If nothing else, maybe I wont drive it, and just used it to play with. I have that grille to do, it needs door pins and catch bushings. I mean, once the projects are done, the car gets boring anyway, right?

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I know man, an intake swap and throwing on a carb crossed my mind. I still have the carb distributor he sent me too. I really want it to run EFI since the car came EFI from the factory. The whole set up is paid for, although it wouldnt hurt my feelings getting all that money back. The thing about going back to stock is that it ran pretty well in stock form, just not above 3500 RPMs. The gas tank was full of rust, Im sure the fuel filter was horribly clogged. Now I have a whole new fuel system, and with a fresh rebuild, I bet it would run fine. Keeping the stock cam, and just bumping the CI to 306, the ECU wouldnt need tuned. A fresh well mannered car sounds better than a bucking, non idling car that a rookie like me will struggle to sort out.

This is the argument I make w/ Jrichker (He ought to be along anytime now.....he has the word "carburetor" on a watch list so he can come in and berate anybody endorsing or considering using one over F.I.)

The people that champion fuel injection here are the ones that never have any trouble with it. Let them have to wonder if this sensor isn't working right, or the calibration of that sensor is off, or if this injector is sticking open/closed, or whether or not they have to have this particular thing matched to that particular thing to work properly. As long as it works,....it's a beautiful thing...but when somethings wrong....It's where the phrase "What The Fck" gets it's origins from.

 

[Noobz347]

Today I spent 15 mins cutting and welding any old flexplate from my 351W Ranger into a work of art for my living room. Surprisingly the wife likes it.

Shocking

 

[95BlueStallion]

I was waiting for someone to say something about that! That was from our honeymoon. Lots of tequila and no kids, it was a good time in Cancun.

 

[95BlueStallion]

This is the argument I make w/ Jrichker (He ought to be along anytime now.....he has the word "carburetor" on a watch list so he can come in and berate anybody endorsing or considering using one over F.I.)

The people that champion fuel injection here are the ones that never have any trouble with it. Let them have to wonder if this sensor isn't working right, or the calibration of that sensor is off, or if this injector is sticking open/closed, or whether or not they have to have this particular thing matched to that particular thing to work properly. As long as it works,....it's a beautiful thing...but when somethings wrong....It's where the phrase "What The Fck" gets it's origins from.

Honestly. I need to pick up a nice Accufab TB and route my PCV correctly. The way I ran it to the intake tract absolutely makes a difference in idle when I have it hooked up versus unplugged. My bright idea might not have been so bright there. Surely that isnt all of my problem, but needs to be fixed. Aside from that, I need to test a couple voltages, and run for codes again. If none, then I'll probably save up for a dyno session and cross my fingers. Im not gonna spend my whole summer chasing what ifs like I did that no spark problem that never existed.

Edit: As far as how much vaccum at idle, I dont know, I dont have a vac gauge. I can put my finger over the vent hole on the oil filler on the VC, and it builds vacuum. When I pull my finger off the hole it makes a nice whishhhh sound.

 

[Boostedpimp]

I would start with the easy things first before swapping to carb or whole engine.. Any codes set? vacuum gauge reading ok? fuel pressure ok? timing

 

[95BlueStallion]

I would start with the easy things first before swapping to carb or whole engine.. Any codes set? vacuum gauge reading ok? fuel pressure ok? timing

Yeah, for sure man. You know how it is when you think something should be better than it is. Frustration gets the better of you. I set the timing at 11* base. Dont know vac or fuel pressure, need to get gauges for those.

 

[Boostedpimp]

Yeah, for sure man. You know how it is when you think something should be better than it is. Frustration gets the better of you. I set the timing at 11* base. Dont know vac or fuel pressure, need to get gauges for those.

My build is slightly different but mine idled and ran like crap and in the end needed more timing. If your bored advance the timing a little and see how she reacts

 

[95BlueStallion]

Thanks for the suggestion. I will definitely try it. It bogs and misfires about 3k rpms when I floor it, so maybe that will help that too. Too much fuel, not enough spark.

 

[90sickfox]

If you have an aftermarket MAF sometimes it helps to rotate it to get a better flow. I've seen cars run funny with cold air intakes until the MAF is rotated. I can't remember if you have a cold air intake or not.

Timing could play a part in it. Most people set the timing to 12° or 14°.

O2 sensors or their wiring could also cause similar issues. I had that problem when my O2 sensor harness had rubbed through on the k member. Same exact symptoms....

A vacuum gauge is one of the most important tools in the tool box. It'll tell you if your timing is correct, if there's an exhaust restriction, if the valves are working correctly, and so much more.

This is the one over used for years.... everything is on the gauge...

Walmart. com has it cheap...

 

[95BlueStallion]

If you have an aftermarket MAF sometimes it helps to rotate it to get a better flow. I've seen cars run funny with cold air intakes until the MAF is rotated. I can't remember if you have a cold air intake or not.

Timing could play a part in it. Most people set the timing to 12° or 14°.

O2 sensors or their wiring could also cause similar issues. I had that problem when my O2 sensor harness had rubbed through on the k member. Same exact symptoms....

A vacuum gauge is one of the most important tools in the tool box. It'll tell you if your timing is correct, if there's an exhaust restriction, if the valves are working correctly, and so much more.

This is the one over used for years.... everything is on the gauge...

Walmart. com has it cheap...

Thanks man. O2 sensors are new motorcraft units, and the harnesses looked good. I do have a Pro M MAF, but stock air box and intake tubing. I'll grab one of those vac gauges and read up on some testing procedures. Im on the lookout for a used Accufab TB to get my PCV hooked up like stock as well. I have an old converted Explorer unit at the moment, without the integrated vac elbow.

 

[A5literMan]

Definitely do all that was mentioned above. Vacuum leak sounds possible still. I wonder about the intake gasket slipping. Very common. Have you cleaned the MAF at all? Also that exploder TB sounds like an issue. That sounds way to small for a 347. What size maf and injectors are you running again? I’m also wondering about your ignition. Is it the stock distributor? That cam is fairly good sized duration wise...did you verify what the timing events are?

 

[95BlueStallion]

Definitely do all that was mentioned above. Vacuum leak sounds possible still. I wonder about the intake gasket slipping. Very common. Have you cleaned the MAF at all? Also that exploder TB sounds like an issue. That sounds way to small for a 347. What size maf and injectors are you running again? I’m also wondering about your ignition. Is it the stock distributor? That cam is fairly good sized duration wise...did you verify what the timing events are?

I am confident with the gaskets. The intake gaskets rested on the block nicely hugging spots on the head gaskets, and I set the intake on gently being sure they stayed aligned.

Injectors are 30# bosch units with a Pro M MAF calibrated for 30's.

Stock distrubtor with new pick up, TFI module, cap and rotor, all Motorcraft OEM part numbers.

Not sure what you mean by timing events, Im a noob. I set base timing at 11* with the spout out, and havent adjusted yet. Plan to bump it to 14* and see how it runs. Just wanted to start in a safe place. Might throw a fresh set of plugs in it as well, as cranking it several times when testing my fake no spark issue fouled the plugs a little.

Edit. MAF is cleaned, used MAF cleaner in a spray can with a q tip (no fuzz left behind), no carb or brake cleaner used.

I think the TB is part of the issue, and am looking for a used Accufab. Dont have dough for a new one at the moment.

 

[A5literMan]

When you got the motor did you mess with the cam at all? Timing chain etc. That was what I was referring to with timing events.

I truly think it’s a sensor,ignition,vacuum leak,or a myriad of things bahahaha.

I am terrible at diagnostic issues. I have little patience with a volt meter etc lol. Good luck. Go through the checklists like you stated. You will find it. Good luck.

 

[95BlueStallion]

When you got the motor did you mess with the cam at all? Timing chain etc. That was what I was referring to with timing events.

I truly think it’s a sensor,ignition,vacuum leak,or a myriad of things bahahaha.

I am terrible at diagnostic issues. I have little patience with a volt meter etc lol. Good luck. Go through the checklists like you stated. You will find it. Good luck.

Ah. The engine was assembled by Woody, and I never so much as pulled the water pump off that the PO was running. It spun nicely so Im running it! So yeah, I just have to dick with stuff until I at least know (or can tell myself) everything is operating correctly and it just needs a tune.

 

[RangerJoe]

Definitely get a vacuum guage, even a cheap harbor freight one or rent one from AutoZone. I fought idle issues when I first got my current combo together. It ended up being a large vacuum leak at the pcv valve. Another thing, I believe pro-m sells mafs calibrated specifically for cold air intake and stock air boxes, might be worth making sure you have the right one.

Here is a video of mine with a vacuum leak, you can see what the needle does. The car idles okay in this video, but that was after holding the gas pedal for a couple of minutes until if figured itself out.


View: https://youtu.be/HjnKehVm7_k


Joe

 

[95BlueStallion]

Definitely get a vacuum guage, even a cheap harbor freight one or rent one from AutoZone. I fought idle issues when I first got my current combo together. It ended up being a large vacuum leak at the pcv valve. Another thing, I believe pro-m sells mafs calibrated specifically for cold air intake and stock air boxes, might be worth making sure you have the right one.

Here is a video of mine with a vacuum leak, you can see what the needle does. The car idles okay in this video, but that was after holding the gas pedal for a couple of minutes until if figured itself out.


View: https://youtu.be/HjnKehVm7_k


Joe

Thanks Joe. I definitely need to pick up one of those gauges, just been busy this week. My pcv valve easily pops out the back of the block, so that may be a contribution to the problem. I should buy a new block grommet for it. I appreciate the suggestions guys, just need to time to check them out!

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

6 cylinder..

Put a 6 cylinder in it from a 78 Maverick. That'll solve all of your problems.

 

[95BlueStallion]

@CarMichael Angelo

Help a noob out here. Here is where my timing sits when the car runs... If I go one tooth in either direction, it doesnt want to stay running. Am I supposed to be setting the timing from the little circle on the pointer, or the tip just past 40 degrees in this pic? This is spout out, engine warmed up.