Nick's "lvndpst" Restoration (and Slight Modification) Thread

That is a big deal. I'm jealous, hopefully I wont be too far behind you. Congrats on getting it running!

Thanks brother. My very first drive with the used clutch was constant bucking and stalling. I was so discouraged and thought the engine was just too radical and was going to need a different cam, etc. Thankfully the PCV fix made all the difference in the world and I didnt go digging into the engine to detune it. Cruising yesterday was awesome. My suspension is shot, the interior needs major cleaning and some replacement pieces, my hatch rattles, and on and on, but all that is easy restoration versus what I have accomplished now. I see the light!
 
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Thanks brother. My very first drive with the used clutch was constant bucking and stalling. I was so discouraged and thought the engine was just too radical and was going to need a different cam, etc. Thankfully the PCV fix made all the difference in the world and I didnt go digging into the engine to detune it. Cruising yesterday was awesome. My suspension is shot, the interior needs major cleaning and some replacement pieces, my hatch rattles, and on and on, but all that is easy restoration versus what I have accomplished now. I see the light!
Just being able to get in and drive it and enjoy it makes all those small issues insignificant.
 
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I put them on my '95 years ago, and what difference they made. Honestly, I feel like they are the only real option worth doing. They are not any more expensive than others on the market, and are the most robust. Why would buy anything else?
Full-length SFCs make a much more noticeable difference on a Fox than on an SN-95. You'll notice the difference quickly.
 
I ordered an SVE aluminum radiator, new door and hatch weather stripping, and striker bushings. I am completely missing the bushing on my drivers door, and my hatch rattles like a mofo. The latch gets stuck, so I am going to remove it and soak it like Alan did on his son's car they fixed up. My doors dont sag, just rattle when closed. Im hoping the bushings and weather stripping correct that. I want to cruise and get the clutch broke in so I can feel the 347 up high!

PS, I read quite a few good reviews on the SVE radiator. Anyone here have a bad experience with one?
 
When I got my Fox a couple years ago, it had an SVE 3 row. It cooled great, but started leaking a few month's ago. I'm not sure how long it was in the car before I took ownership though. Based on price and reviews, I ended up buying another SVE and so far so good.
 
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Changing out my window guide bushings and readjusting the window tracks really tightened up my doors. They used to rattle when closed but every since I did that door rehab they are really nice and tight.


Now that you have the car driving, you can do all the fun resto type stuff
 
Well, it has a bit to go before I'd say its offically driving, but its close! And yes, I will kinda be jumping around with resto projects as I notice things. I have several bits piled up for interior restoration, but I want to pull the carpet out to clean it and lay down dynamat, so I dont know if I will commit to that until maybe fall. Do it all at once. Stereo included.

I need to finish applying POR15 to the undercarriage first thing, as there is some surface rust I want to tackle. That will be nice to get done forever. But I need to install the SFCs first... So many little things to be able to say I am "finished" with certain aspects of the car.
 
Just to update this, and maybe provide a talking point, I have some good and bad progress to report.

The good:

The SVE radiator is in and works fantastically. No leaks, and holds temp well on an 85 degree day. I put 35 miles on the car yesterday breaking in the clutch.

I also installed new weather stripping on both door jambs and the hatch, as well as new striker bushings. That really tightened up the door, but I can tell my window tracks need a do over, as @Mustang5L5 did.

The bad:

I caved in and bought 3" Flowmaster exhaust tips rather than have a shop custom bend the exhaust I wanted. STUPID.

They dont fit worth a :poo: with my used MAC mufflers. Rather than box them up and return them like I should have, I decided to MAKE them work. STUPID.

On the passenger side I had to dent the piss out of the over the axle tube to ensure clearance of the axle and upper control arm. It just barely keeps from rubbing my gas tank tank cover, and thats after I cut off 2" of the pipe where it meets the muffler. I am not wanting to weld it all together, because I would like to be able to remove it to continue my under carriage painting. That means after spending $300 on it, I had to spend $25 more on four 3" clamps, as Flowmaster includes exactly zero clamps to fit the four pieces together, and to the mufflers...

On the driver's side, I had to cut 3" out the flow tube between the muffler and H pipe and weld it back together. That was just to get the clearance to start fitting the over the axle pipe. Its still going to need massaging to clear properly.

Moral of the story, once this is all done I truthfully need to remove my entire exhaust system, check my welds for leaks, grind them pretty and paint the whole thing with high temp paint so that it doesnt all rust apart in a year. Should have just bought a full H Pipe and Cat back versus piecing it all together. I am a RA-TARD.

Also while under the car I found that my transmission output shaft seal is leaking and splattered trans fluid on my new tunnel paint, as well as my pinion seal having a minor leak. Yay!

And no, no pics. Its ugly as fck and not finished. Just a rant.
 
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The pinion seal? That’ll be fun.......

So the new engine feels pretty nice then Nick?

It cruises alright, but will randomly buck when in 5th gear around 1500-1600 RPM. Definitely needs a tune, but is drivable as is. I havent been able go full throttle yet, as the first clutch slipped, and I only have 45-50 miles on the new one. Im not about to burn it up! I really wanted to get the exhaust finished last night and put more miles on it, but I didnt come close.
 
Welcome to the " My tail shaft seal is leaking, and it's all over my newly cleaned trans tunnel" club.

Look at it this way...


It's now way easier to wipe all of the leakage off of all of the new shiny. Be glad you didn't choose bed liner like I did.

Bed liner don't like getting wiped.
 
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The leaking tailshaft helps preserve the trans tunnel and I've never heard of anybody having to make so many modifications to install a set of flowmaster 3" pipes. What kind of mid pipe are you running?
 
The leaking tailshaft helps preserve the trans tunnel and I've never heard of anybody having to make so many modifications to install a set of flowmaster 3" pipes. What kind of mid pipe are you running?

It started life as a MAC off road H. I welded in a pair of catalytic convertors that I had from another project though. I was careful to keep the pipes the same length and shape. The issue is that the mufflers I bought are MAC pro dumps. The hangers are welded to the exit of the mufflers. So Ive had to chop them off, grind the welds off, and reweld them back onto the mufflers themselves, just so the flowmaster pipe can fit over the exits of the mufflers. The flowtubes attached to the MACs are too long, and have the mufflers back too close to the axle. And honestly, the 3" flowmaster tubes are huge. Its a tight fit around the axle on the passenger side where you have fuel lines running. Couple it with each side coming in two pieces, and its a wobbly mess while youre trying to position i while laying under the car. I will make them work. I just know my exhaust shop would have done exactly what I wanted for a similar price, and I wouldnt have had to do all this chop cut rebuild. I honestly thought these would clamp on easy, which is why I bought them.