Nitrous 4.6 question

jcint

Member
Mar 30, 2005
168
2
16
wellington florida
I was think about getting a nitrous kit for my 96 gt but have no knowledge about nitrous good or bad. My 96 GT has about 78000 everthing on it is stock except the CAI. here are my questions and concerns:
What brand/company should i look into? How hard is the setup. Do i need to do anything to my engine to get it ready for nitrous? Will it blow my intake up!!! saftey concerns and what is purging. I'm very ignorant on this subject so any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
HWYSTR74 said:
Dude you have a nice car... dont ruin it with nitrous. it's not a rice burner.
thats a stupid reply! :ZipIt:

nitrous is a nice add on, just upgrade your fuel pump and get a tune for it to be safe. Shop around for good deals. If you look at the sticky above they have a good deal on the direct injection kit which is very safe.
 
Search is good my freind.
hwystr74 = not nitrous knowledgable. read before posting.

Nitrous is like any power adder if not used correctly or with a firm understanding BAD things happen. Same as the guys that throw a Blower or turbo setup on a car and up the boost to 20psi. BAD things happen.

Like several on here I'm partial to NX. I also like the NOS systems and the Nitrous works systems. Zex I personally don't care for just my opinion many use it succesfully.
I suggest 1 step colder copper plugs, I use the tr6's. start with smaller shots, 75-100hp I've ran the 150 jets 3 times and do not play on running them again. IMO too much fuel flowing through an intake not designed for fuel. A better fuel pump is a good idea, you said 96 right you should still have a return style fuel system I say go big 255lph pump that way you really shouldn't ever need to get in there again.
Remember the old rules.
don't spray below 3k
don't spray if the car isn't building rpms fairly freely.
don't spray with less than a 1/4 tank
don't get too greedy. (this one is hard to do)
usually after 100hp most people retard 2deg per 50hp.
also some run stock heat range plugs to the 100hp level.

The gen x is a great add on. but if funds are tight
A pressure gauge.
Some way to heat the bottle to pressure up.
Mount the bottle firmly to the car.
I suggest blow down tubes.

Purge is nice but honestly I don't use mine much other than to bleed the nitrous off the solenoids after I'm done racing. The idea is to make sure you have nitrous at the solenoid instead of an "air" bubble.
 
I spray my car and i like to believe i have a good set up.

There are 3 types of nitrous systems out there. You have dry,wet, direct port. People use dry as a starter kit but only go to wet a few weeks later because it hits harder and gets better times. Direct port don't do it unless you have a built bottum end spraying 200+.

Mustang man is right go with NX very good kit you'll be very happy with it.

This is what i have and maybe you should too.
1. NX wet system
2. MSD digital window switch
3. Full throtle switch< turns on when you floor it at a set rpm and shuts off at whatever rpm setting you put.>
4. Bottle heater <you need it to be at least at 850Psi in the bottle for a good hit.>
5. Electic bottle opener
6. Purge
7. NGK TR6s spark plugs they only last 2,000 miles but there only 15-20 dollars they run cooler the stock.
8. Fuel pump <you can run it with stock but if your stock one doesn't supply the fuel motor blows.>
9. Maybe a tune depending how much your spraying.

As for your purge you need to purge to let all the air out of the line so you can get a better hit. Plus if you don't do that you can blow your motor, back firing.

Honestly don't get scared its not that serious you have to deal with the same things even more with a turbo, S/C, or all N/A set ups. Nitrious is just the cheapest way to go fast. Pisses people off cause my almost bone the F... stock 4v can walk people with just the juice.
4 and a tire.

Good Luck
 
GoBabyVroommm said:
You can spray out the hole! You don't have to wait for 3k. If you can get out of the hole with a 100shot, meaning hook good for it. But i would worry about that plastic intake get a bullit.
I do Spray outta the hole and I'm over 3k when I do it. My Rearend HATES life.
Bottle opener?? WTF you too lazy to open a bottle? Or you suckering in people on the street which we all know street racing is bad.
your tr6's only last 2k miles? mine have over 6k on them now and look fine.


And gee by everything in your post before that one my motor is already blown. I mean heck I got the plastic intake, I don't use a window switch, I'm on a stock fuel pump (not for much longer though), my tr6's have 6k miles on them, oh and I only spray when I'm between 900psi and 1050psi.

Hmmm I need to go get JayC in this discussion.
 
Here is my last post on Nitrous

Dry Systems

For a dry system, you have a nozzle mounted approximately 6 inches in front of the throttle body. The nozzle injects only nitrous which is fed from the bottle, wherever it may be mounted. The additional fuel is provided through the fuel injectors requiring the computer to be essentially 'tricked' into thinking it has additional air coming in through the manifold (which essentially it does, but not in the way that it believes). The computer in turn tells the injectors to shoot more fuel into the cylinders. The injectors and fuel are under a load during nitrous injection, so it's a good idea to make sure your fuel pump and injectors can handle it. This will depend on what modifications are already done to your car besides the nitrous.

Pros: Does not have fuel flowing through the manifold so there is no worry of a puddling effect and a nitrous backfire in turn.

Cons: Relies on tricking the computer for its fuel supply. Anything that requires tricking the computer for such a vital element as fuel is not an intelligent way to approach anything, much less NITROUS INJECTION. Because the fuel is added through the injectors and the injectors all inject essentially the same amount of fuel and the nitrous is flowing through the manifold that does not apply equal air to all cylinders, the balance of air/fuel is going to be off. It'll be lean on some cylinders and rich on others.

Wet Systems


Wet systems are similar to dry systems. The only thing that is really different is the way the fuel is added to compensate for the nitrous. A wet system has a dual injection nozzle. It injects fuel along with nitrous into the air stream (6 inches in front of the throttle body), and the fuel is carried along with the nitrous into the engine compartment. This requires the dual injection nozzle to be connected to the fuel system. The fuel side of the injection nozzle is connected to a fuel solenoid, which is connected directly to the fuel rails, and the fuel solenoid opens at the same time the nitrous solenoid opens, which is when the system is armed and all conditions are met. You still must make sure you have a strong enough fuel pump to handle the fuel requirements of the nitrous injection.

Pros: Functions independently of the computer. The computer otherwise will not even know anything is going on during nitrous injection because of the way the fuel is supplied. Because the fuel and nitrous are added in together, the nitrous/fuel ratio will be the same, or at least very close to the same on each cylinder because the fuel and nitrous are flowing TOGETHER in the manifold.

Cons: Having fuel flowing through the manifold is not the safest thing in the world. Theoretically if you have enough air intake velocity (injection above 3,000RPM), you should not have to worry about a backfire, but that is not a sure science. If fuel puddles it can create a nitrous backfire that can damage the motor and/or intake system.

Direct Port Systems

Direct Port systems are very different from the dry and wet EFI systems. A direct port system has a nitrous injector and a fuel injector on EVERY cylinder. When the system is armed and fired both the fuel and nitrous injector do their thing. This method is safer because it bypasses the manifold entirely and does not rely on tricking the computer for its fuel supply.

Pros: Efficient. Safe. Powerful. By far the most advanced nitrous system on the market.

Cons: Expensive. By far the most expensive nitrous system on the market.

Nitrous oxide is a non-flammable compound of nitrogen and oxygen. At room temperature, nitrous oxide is a gas, but it is easily liquefied and stored under pressure. Technically, each molecule of nitrous oxide is comprised of two atoms of nitrogen bonded to one atom of oxygen. At temperatures above 565-575º F., nitrous oxide breaks down into separate nitrogen and oxygen molecules. When injected in a vaporous state to the intake air of an internal combustion engine, the resultant heat of compression (on the compression stroke of the engine) breaks down the nitrous oxide compound into inert nitrogen and free oxygen available to support the combustion of extra fuel. This means more fuel can be burned than air alone would support. Burning more fuel releases more heat, which creates more expansion of the working fluid (mostly nitrogen) in the cylinder for more pressure on the piston. The result is more power.

Air/fuel in nitrous

The chemically correct nitrous to gasoline ratio is 9.649:1, but that is too lean to run safely. The chemically correct air to gasoline ratio is 14.7:1, but at wide open throttle, we cannot run that lean without going lean. The problem is that every bit of oxygen does not find and mix with every bit of gasoline. Same goes for nitrous, you need a richer mixture to better the chances of the nitrous mixing with fuel. If a nitrous engine runs lean, it can destroy the engine in a matter of seconds. There must be enough fuel for the nitrous to react with, if there isn't, temperatures rise rapidly. The oxygen that couldn't react with fuel will oxidize any parts that get hot enough, and the next thing in line to burn is aluminum, so don't run lean

A NX 100 shot with a Gen II upgrade, MSD Window swtich, NGK TR6 plugs and that is all you need for a good nitrous kit.
 
HWYSTR74 said:
Dude you have a nice car... dont ruin it with nitrous. it's not a rice burner.

Since you are noob and only 16 years old , I'm gonna ignore what you just posted. You know nothing about nitrous other than what you learned from Fast and Furious so STFU:Zip2: My buddies BooWFO and blackfang have it all covered here so I have nothing to add:nice:


Jay