Nitrous Oxide Question

sKyZ · Jun 10, 2005

I have a 1994 302 5.0L v8 Mustang GT Convertible with 125,000 miles on it. It has a cold air intake, offroad H-pipe, custom bent exhaust, flowmaster mufflers, and I blew my transmission so it is being rebuilt for racing with kevlar parts and a 2800 RPM stall convertor.

Now the question:
I baught a Dry NOS Nitrous Oxide kit with a 10LB bottle. I have been told by a few people that it would destroy my engine because the engine has 125,000 miles on it and the piston rings will fry. I was planning on running a 50-100 shot. After paying $1500 for a new transmission I really DO NOT want to blow my engine or cause any harm to my car. Should I just get rid of the nitrous oxide kit or are there any suggestions/information you guys may have for running it and keeping my car from dying?

Thank you.

Nobody · Jun 10, 2005

Death by nitrous is from running too lean and detonating on the spray. When was the last time you read that someone killed their motor on a 50-100 shot? It's not often, in fact more people blow up their motors with superchargers than nitrous. Do a search just to make sure.

However, there are a lot of spectacular nitrous backfire videos on the web. This is more the issue with nitrous than melting pistons. But still, all these backfire videos are from people running a wet shot and the fuel igniting in the intake. If you are running a dry shot, then there's no danger of this happening because fuel is never in the intake like on a wet kit.

Of course, nitrous should be used on a motor in good healthy running order. Don't spray it if you have any current tuning issues with the motor!!!

sKyZ · Jun 10, 2005

As far as I know the motor is fine, I've been running 93+ octane in it for over 3 months and put in octane boost every so often [about once a week]. I just changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and other such stuff.. I'm running synthetic oil.. I'm just scared about the engine going. I donno if i can afford an engine after my tranny.

donjohn · Jun 10, 2005

people usually run a bigger shot than that safely on this board. there's always a danger when using the nos... i would rather get a s/c and a good tune.

check out member gcomfx, or his website for more information... he's the only guy i can name who's been safely running nos for a while on his auto

wytstang · Jun 10, 2005

Spray the focker.....If there is nothing wrong with the engine you will be fine. Just add fuel and retard timing as needed (using a 125 or less).

94MustangGT5.0 · Jun 10, 2005

Actually, a wet shot is healthier in my opinion than a dry shot. Most of the explosions I have seen are caused from a dry shot because many times people tap the cold air intake, and the nitrous is not activated using a window swith or other method that ensures WOT is obtained before nitrous is sprayed. What happens then is the nitrous puddles in the tube, then when its sucked through under WOT.... BOOM! Too much spray and its usually will blow the intake all to hell. The only nitrous setup I would run on my car would be a wet shot. I would probably run mine by tapping the lower intake or buying a Edelbrock intake spacer with the nitrous jets built in (much like the NOSzle system for the 99+ 4.6's except the nitrous does not come in through the injector, but rather through the sides of the intake.) I read an article where Anderson Ford Motorsports did that, and it was lethal! Not to the motor, to performance!

94MustangGT5.0 · Jun 10, 2005

Nobody said:
If you are running a dry shot, then there's no danger of this happening because fuel is never in the intake like on a wet kit.

Correct me if I am wrong, but while fuel may not be in the intake with a dry kit, nitrous is. Everyone I see running their nitrous that uses a dry set up usually has the intake tube tapped, which means nitrous straight down the intake. That would create more of a boom than gas alone!

wytstang · Jun 10, 2005

Nope no fuel=no boom, what can happen with a dry kit (or wet) to cause a backfire is valve float accuring. While a wet kit can "puddle" fuel in the intake and that will pop the intake right off.

sKyZ · Jun 11, 2005

okay, so I'd be safe running a 50-100 shot of dry on my 125,000 mile stang? also, how do i retard the timing and how much should i? I heard that retarding it causes damage with nitrous.

Venom351R · Jun 11, 2005

Nobody said:
in fact more people blow up their motors with superchargers than nitrous. Do a search just to make sure.

It all depends upon your tune. Nitrous or Superchargers are not more prone to cause anything to blown up then its counter part. A safley tunned car will run fine either on the juice or the boost. If its not tunned or not tunned right then its just as easy to blow something up regardless of which one your using.

Nobody · Jun 11, 2005

Striped5.0 said:
It all depends upon your tune. Nitrous or Superchargers are not more prone to cause anything to blown up then its counter part. A safley tunned car will run fine either on the juice or the boost. If its not tunned or not tunned right then its just as easy to blow something up regardless of which one your using.

You are right, the correct tune makes all the difference, but a lot of people don't get the correct tune for their supercharger. In my opinion, any supercharger install should include a dyno tune and a custom chip at least. Nitrous is not as dependent on a dyno tune as a supercharger.

Nobody · Jun 11, 2005

94MustangGT5.0 said:
Correct me if I am wrong, but while fuel may not be in the intake with a dry kit, nitrous is. Everyone I see running their nitrous that uses a dry set up usually has the intake tube tapped, which means nitrous straight down the intake. That would create more of a boom than gas alone!

That is incorrect. Nitrous is not flamable until it's heated to 570 degrees. It only reaches this temp in the cylinder on the compression stroke. At this temp, it separates and releases the oxygen in the chemical. This oxygen allows more fuel to be burned. That is how n20 works - the power comes from extra fuel, the n20 is just a mechanism to allow the burn of the extra fuel. The boom that you speak of happens when gasoline is injected into the intake as wet kits do. Look at the wet kit nozzles -they have two lines feeding it -Nitrous and Fuel. As we all know, gasoline ignites at a very low temperature. If the gasoline is not moving fast enough through the intake (which is somewhere around 180-280 degrees) it will collect in a large enough quanity to ignite and then BOOM! Nitrous in the intake has nothing to do with it.

Please do a search on introus oxide to get more info. I may have some whacked out facts myself just so that I can feel good about using nitrous...

Nobody · Jun 11, 2005

sKyZ said:
okay, so I'd be safe running a 50-100 shot of dry on my 125,000 mile stang? also, how do i retard the timing and how much should i? I heard that retarding it causes damage with nitrous.

Do a search for retarding timing to learn how to do it on our cars. It's really easy. Retarding timing with nitrous is a necessity to prevent detonation. However, too much retard is indeed harmful. But we are talking about really low retard. Try to find the site of the guy who blew ths hood off his fox (backfire.wmv) his backfore was caused by too little timing.

cavscout371 · Jun 13, 2005

To be on the safe side I would get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a big fuel pump especially if its a dry kit.

I'm not even hooking mine up until I get my AFPR.

Swarzkopf · Jun 13, 2005

Actually, a wet shot is healthier in my opinion than a dry shot. Most of the explosions I have seen are caused from a dry shot because many times people tap the cold air intake, and the nitrous is not activated using a window swith or other method that ensures WOT is obtained before nitrous is sprayed. What happens then is the nitrous puddles in the tube, then when its sucked through under WOT.... BOOM! Too much spray and its usually will blow the intake all to hell. The only nitrous setup I would run on my car would be a wet shot. I would probably run mine by tapping the lower intake or buying a Edelbrock intake spacer with the nitrous jets built in (much like the NOSzle system for the 99+ 4.6's except the nitrous does not come in through the injector, but rather through the sides of the intake.) I read an article where Anderson Ford Motorsports did that, and it was lethal! Not to the motor, to performance!

Correct me if I am wrong, but while fuel may not be in the intake with a dry kit, nitrous is. Everyone I see running their nitrous that uses a dry set up usually has the intake tube tapped, which means nitrous straight down the intake. That would create more of a boom than gas alone!

No offense, but this is total bull****. Please learn a little about nitrous oxide before giving out misinformation.

Listen to Nobody, he is 100% correct here.

Nitrous oxide is NOT explosive and not even flammable until 575, at which point it breaks down and the oxygen content burns (as Nobody said).

For the record, a dry kit CANNOT create an explosion in your intake tube/intake manifold like a wet kit can.

Swarzkopf · Jun 13, 2005

My recommendations:

1. Install a 190lph or bigger fuel pump.
2. Install an aftermarket, adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
3. Install spark plugs at least one heat range colder than stock.
4. Set your timing back to stock.
5. Start with the smallest size jets you have, and work up from there. Check your plugs after you first few nitrous runs for signs of detonation. If they look cool, then you can up the shot size.

We really should have a sticky on this topic...

cavscout371 · Jun 13, 2005

Swarzkopf said:
My recommendations:

1. Install a 190lph or bigger fuel pump.
2. Install an aftermarket, adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
3. Install spark plugs at least one heat range colder than stock.
4. Set your timing back to stock.
5. Start with the smallest size jets you have, and work up from there. Check your plugs after you first few nitrous runs for signs of detonation. If they look cool, then you can up the shot size.

We really should have a sticky on this topic...

blksn955.o · Jun 13, 2005

+2

also invest in a window switch, and if funds are avail. an aftermarket ign. box as any power adder will find the weak part of the ign.

I liked the digital6+ as it had a timing retard so I could run 14* off the bottle, and trake out the needed timing when the master n2o switch also powerd' up the n2o.

BTW- you will smile like a retard for a good week after you spray the first time, in no way am I making fun or hatefull to the mentaly challenged.

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