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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Nitrous Talk

  • Thread starter Thread starter darthcual
  • Start date Start date Aug 10, 2011

darthcual

Member
Mar 31, 2005
985
19
18
Arlington, TX
Aug 10, 2011
#1
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #1
After going back and forth on what type of power adder I want I decided to do Nitrous. I'm not new to nitrous per se, just new to spraying foxbodies. I had a Nitrous Express system on my SRT-4 and it really woke the car up. I might still supercharge the stang at a later date. So, I have some questions for anybody that might be spraying or those who have. I hate to bring up a zombie horse then beat it to death again but do I need a wet or dry shot? I know the difference between the two and I believe the wet shot to be safer as it keeps EGT's down. Other question is do I need to retard timing? I guess that is dependant on the shot and I plan on running a 100 shot. Will I need colder plugs? Lastly, I would like to have a plate style sprayer that goes between the throttle body and the intake manifold but I seem to be having a hard time finding one. It looks as if Nitrous Works made one at one time or another. I also see the plate that goes between the upper and lower intake from Nitrous Express but damn those are expensive. Close to a 1000 bucks. I spent 400 getting the system going on my SRT. Lastly, If I run a wet shot, where do I pull the fuel from? On the Srt we pulled it from schrader valve on the fuel rail as it was situated at the end after the last cylinder (returnless system). Any and all help will be appreciated.
 

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
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134
Aug 10, 2011
#2
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #2
I would run a wet shot. What intake are you running? To put a spacer style plate under the stock intake would be a waste of money IMO. Either get a better intake that you can grow into or just get a spray bar for the throttle body.

As far as timing goes, the general rule of thumb is 2 degrees for every 50 hp you add, but every motor is different so check the plugs and see what they like.

You will also need a bottle heater and an accurate gauge to read the bottle pressure, and a window switch, set to turn the nitrous on when the motor reaches peak tq.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
5,129
1,666
204
Maryland
Aug 10, 2011
#3
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #3
what he said... but id spray from 3300 -5500 on a window switch

and pull fuel from the valve on the fuel line before it hits the rail
 

darthcual

Member
Mar 31, 2005
985
19
18
Arlington, TX
Aug 10, 2011
#4
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #4
srtthis said:
what he said... but id spray from 3300 -5500 on a window switch

and pull fuel from the valve on the fuel line before it hits the rail
Click to expand...

Okay does someone sell an adapter 'T' fitting or will I just need to fab something up? As far as the intake, the stocker is on their now but I have a cobra intake waiting in the wings to be installed. I was planning on doing heads and cam with the cobra intake but I just cant justify the expense. Maybe when the economy turns around. I plan on a gauge for the bottle as I remember the difference in the hit when the bottle was at 800 psi vs 1000. As far as a heater, IDK? In Texas we usually have mild winters and I could heat the bottle up with just my heater in the car. It may be something I pick up later down the road.

Anyone have any info about the plugs or the throttle spacer?
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
5,129
1,666
204
Maryland
Aug 10, 2011
#5
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #5
stock heads id start with a autolite 24

as for the adaptor. youll just pull the schrador valve out like you did on your SRT and attach the fuel line. i cant remember what size the fitting is off the top of my head
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
5,129
1,666
204
Maryland
Aug 10, 2011
#6
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #6
also get a blowdown tube...
 

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
350
134
Aug 10, 2011
#7
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #7
the adapter is either 1/8 or 1/4'' npt to -4an fitting. Summit sells them, i use one for my fuel pressure gauge
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
5,129
1,666
204
Maryland
Aug 10, 2011
#8
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #8
90lxcoupe said:
the adapter is either 1/8 or 1/4'' npt to -4an fitting. Summit sells them, i use one for my fuel pressure gauge
Click to expand...

i was thinking like 1/16th npt..
 

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
350
134
Aug 10, 2011
#9
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #9
srtthis said:
i was thinking like 1/16th npt..
Click to expand...

just googled it, you are correct
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
5,129
1,666
204
Maryland
Aug 10, 2011
#10
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #10
90lxcoupe said:
just googled it, you are correct
Click to expand...


damn im smart lol
 

darthcual

Member
Mar 31, 2005
985
19
18
Arlington, TX
Aug 10, 2011
#11
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #11
Sweet! Thanks for the help. This site has saved my ass so many times (too bad it was after the sodomy). Anybody know about the throttle plate? Or should I just tap a shark fitting? If I do, where does it belong on the intake tube? After the bend close to the throttle?
 

PUNISHER RACING

Active Member
Aug 27, 2007
1,124
0
36
FORD CITY, PA.
Aug 10, 2011
#12
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #12
we usually keep them 6 to 8 inches from the tb.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
5,129
1,666
204
Maryland
Aug 10, 2011
#13
  • Aug 10, 2011
  • #13
Id personally do it right after the bend
 

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
350
134
Aug 11, 2011
#14
  • Aug 11, 2011
  • #14
srtthis said:
Id personally do it right after the bend
Click to expand...

So would i, you want it to be a straight shot to the TB.
 
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