Nitrous tune debate. To tune, or not to tune?

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
24
58
Ok, so lets knock this out.

Almost every time someone brings up nitrous, someone replies with "it will be fine as long as you have a good tune".

Nitrous tunes pull timing and richen the fuel curve, correct? Not much else to do I expect.

What about when a company recommends running the stock tune (stock timing, fuel curves) and just using premium fuel (93 octane, lets say).

Is there then a reason to get a nitrous tune?


If you think about it, and this is pertaining to WET kits (dry kits are a different story all together), wet kits are jetted on the rich side, ensuring that you have enough fuel while you are spraying so that on a motor that is healthy, and getting proper fuel (pressure, clean lines/injectors, proper working order fuel pump), wont go lean while you are spraying.

Unless you are already having lean problems, do you really need to tune the fuel curves?


Timing: The rule of thumb is said to be pull 2* of timing for every 50 horsepower when spraying. So for a 100 shot (very common for us Stangers), you would pull 4*. Yet most companies recommend running STOCK timing. No advance, no retard.

While retarding the timing certainly can't hurt from a safety aspect, it does cost a small amount of power.

Once again, to tune, or not to tune? Obviously, if you are running any kind of chip, tuner, or custom tune in which the timing has been advanced, it MUST be retarded to at least the stock level.


So first my question is this: What is special about a nitrous tune? I am assuming it's just retarding the timing, and richening the fuel curves.


My next question is this: I have a Diablosport Predator, running a canned tune from what I believe is RPM Outlet (I didn't buy it new, but the receipt shows RPM Outlet).

If a nitrous tune is just timing and fuel, could I not just back the timing down with my Diablosport (after figuring out what settings are factory timing, could be done through datalogging I suppose), and richen the fuel curves, and basically have a nitrous tune?


Any insight is appreciated... hopefully this will help those contemplating getting a kit, those who have a kit awaiting to be installed (me!!! :D), and those who are already spraying but may want to tweak their tunes.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


sinse you have a diablo, i have one as well. do this...

flash the car to stock..
upload the FACTORY hp tune not the custom tune..
this is a stock tune you can mess with, you dont know how much timing they introduced into the custom tune.
richen both tables up to 10% or higher at wot
maybe take a few degrees out at 4-7k

i would buy a wideband and watch it constantly (look for cops too!!)
 
Agree with above.

I think 90% of the time people say "get a tune" really means just check the air/fuel after you get it set up. Like you said, the important thing is that your timing is not advance from stock and your a/f is not leaned up at all.

Unlike most people, I pulled 2* global timing for my 100 shot (which has worked flawlessly over the past four years or so). With a wet kit, you'll be able to pretty much put the a/f where you want it. I would install the kit, and put the nitrous jet that you want, but put one size larger fuel jet. Then, hop on a dyno to check your a/f (which will likely be very rich). Then just step down in fuel jets until you're at 11.5-ish.

The problem with changing your timing and fuel curves with the Predator is that when you want to get on it and not use the nitrous, you'll lose a few hp. That's why I'd leave the fuel alone with the Predator. I have a TwEECer, essentially a flip chip, and I think it's the only way to do nitrous. I have a NA tune and a nitrous tune and just twist the knob to select which one; its a luxury that flash tuners do not have.
 
I ran as recommended by NOS - the stock tune even up to 125 HP shot of their Noszle kit. But I did:
use a Wideband and did some datalogging
used a KB BAP
of course, used colder plugs and closed the gaps down to about .0035
used a Plasma Booster (not sure if it helped at all but I got it cheap)
ran with a window switch, a FPSS and an electronic WOT switch.

After spending all that money, I didn't really have enough money for an afternoon of dyno tuning for a basically street driven daily driver. Did I leave some HP on the table? Sure. But is it safe without a dyno tune? Yes.
 
You don't "have" to have a nitrous tune. I do have a "mail-order" nitrous tune from Brenspeed.com. It isn't a whole lot different than the NA tune I have from them. Just has less total timing.

You should datalog you current tune to see what your total ignition timing is a WOT and go from there. I am running 16* of total timing on my 125 shot using 91 octane fuel. I think JayC said he is running 18* timing on his 150 shot tune with 93 octane. He has a true dyno tune for his nitrous tune though I believe.
 
A lot of good advice above. :nice:



sinse you have a diablo, i have one as well. do this...

flash the car to stock..
upload the FACTORY hp tune not the custom tune..
this is a stock tune you can mess with, you dont know how much timing they introduced into the custom tune.
richen both tables up to 10% or higher at wot
maybe take a few degrees out at 4-7k

FWIW, it seems to me that if you do this ^, install one degree colder plugs gapped at .035, and run a full tank of 93 octane, you shouldn't have any problems at all running a 100 shot.

One advantage to the old-school timing adjuster that I've had for a long time, I can run advanced timing all the time except at the tract, where I can rotate it down a couple of degrees for the spray.
:flag:
 
I think JayC said he is running 18* timing on his 150 shot tune with 93 octane. He has a true dyno tune for his nitrous tune though I believe.

I was at 18* with my stock cams. Since adding the CMS II cams we're at 21* on pump 93. The car really liked more timing with those cams. I must say though, this is not what I would recommend unless you're looking for every bit of power and willing accept the results, good or bad:nice:
My tuner and I have spent hours on the dyno to get the most usable power and the safest tune possible. A good tune can help control the lean spike as well as get better performance.
 
My tuner and I have spent hours on the dyno to get the most usable power and the safest tune possible. A good tune can help control the lean spike as well as get better performance.

I think you suggested to me once to run a shorter solenoid to nozzle fuel line to help alleviate some of the lean spike. I am currently running a 20" nitrous line and a 15" or 12", can't remember off hand, fuel line and I don't have much of a lean spike.

it is tune by nitrous pete from nmra,but he tells me i have a fuel pressure problem say we need to turn up volts on my fuel pump.

Are you still using the stock fuel pump? If so, it might be time to upgrade to a Walbro 255 or an SVT Focus pump. I am running the later of the two.