Nitrous Walkthrough/Advice

timing back to normal...no advancement....
WOT at like 2800-3000 rpm.....off at 6000 or whatever your redline is because it will through you through the rpm's really fast.

It will just run at WOT till you let off. But you DO NOT want to hit your rev limiter with nitrous. The stock rev limiter is a fuel cut which could possibly destroy the motor.

Get a window switch.. They're about $100 but well worth it.

if you have good tires you can spray out of the whole. its alot of fun. i run 12* of timing with 93 octane on the bottle. no window switch but then again i do have a manual. im not sure how that works for an auto because you dont let off WOT to shift gears like i do.

my friends 95 had a shift kit and nitrous....all i know is he had stock timing....but yeah he would pull it on the street and just destroy the tires from a stop.....? he sold the car so i dont know about long term but it help up fine for a year or so....wasnt a daily driver though...?

GreenStangGT said:

Ok. but won't see too much nitrous use so that's not my concern. Thanks for the info.

Click to expand...

120$ will be cheap compared to a rebuild when you hit that rev limiter and burn holes in the pistons. I am not saying nitrous is the devil but if you don't do it right it will cost you more down the road. I would get the 120$ window switch...

you can get a window switch for a lot less then $120. it wont be digital but it does the same thing. i know with my dry kit if the fuel pressure is not there the second solenoid wont work. if the rev limiter cuts the fuel it should cut the nitrous too. not sure how the zex kit works. does it turn on with fuel pressure also like the nos kit? dont quote me but i think you will be fine without one.

I've run a Zex dry kit for aprox. 5.5 years on my Auto car. I have a superchip in my car. Which is suppose to be a big no, no with nitrous. LOL However, it does move the rev limiter up and out of the way.

Here is what I recommend. First, fill up with the highest octane you can get. I've sprayed my car successfully on 89 before. LOL Next, drop you timing to stock. Gap your plugs to .35.... then start with the 75 shot. First trip out. Run the car hard (WOT) in second gear to get it to shift into 3rd... then activate your switch while still at WOT. If the car runs WOT from 2nd into 3rd, this will insure the computer won't try to downshift back into 2nd. Later when you are playing and you run a car from a roll and leave it in DRIVE, you'll find out why I manual shift my car when I spray it. That downshift on the bottle, can scare the poo out of you as you dance across a few lanes.

If you hear any pinging, or detonation of ANY kind. Shut it down. Flip the switch or take your foot off the pedal. Either will work.

Drop the timing or bump the fuel pressure and try it again. Once you get it lined out in third... try to spray it in second. Be ready to shut down if your car has trouble with the rev limiter when it shifts into third.

The 2-3 shift is easier for the tranny to make than the fast 1-2 shift. This will be your test for your rev limiter. If it doesn't feel good on the 2-3 shift. Don't spray the car again until you get a window switch, or get a chip to remove the rev limiter.

I'll be pulling my chip out this week... going to an SCT setup with the new engine combo. The only thing I know about the chip is that it removed the limiter. It was in the car when I bought it.

As far as when you feel comfortable with the nitrous, then you can move your way up to bigger shots. The standard is to drop the timing 2* for each additional 25 shot of nitrous. I ran 6* on the 125 shot and finally got 7* out of it later on. My car just doesn't like timing, never has.

So far the worst I've done was bumped the timing too far, and burned an electrode on a spark plug. I was racing a pesky Z-28 at the track and didn't let out of it, even though I heard the detonation. I did beat him though. LOL

Once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to activate the nitrous as soon as you have the traction for it. My best results were to launch from an idle and spray the car 4-6 feet off the line. (this is at a prepped track) on the street I have to wait til the top of first. I also manual shift my car, so it's watch the tach, nitrous on, bump the shifter..... bump the shifter.... cross the finishline, shutdown.

If you hit the juice too soon and do something stupid to cause it to spin, this will happen. Please note the shift light... and the fact you lose your race against your friend's RX-7. LOL

http://www.100mphclub.com/movies/gcomfx_incar1.mov

One more thing.... nitrous is fun during burnouts too. If you listen to the engine, you'll know when I activated it in 3rd as the engine trys to bog.

http://www.100mphclub.com/movies/psu_gcomfx2.mpg

http://www.100mphclub.com/movies/psu_gcomfx3.mpg

I am debating on a 5 speed swap myself. I would feel more comfortable spraying with a nice auto BUT I found a good deal on a low mileage t5 with bellhousing, tranny, and pedals I have my eye on.

How much did that rebuild cost you? I know my car will be faster once I get a fresh AODE or a T5 in there. Mine feels wierd in many ways lol.

didn't you say you got a wet kit???

didn't you say you got a wet kit???