Nitrous

not necessarily. Alot of it depends on the maintainance of the car. There are 94/95 stangs with over 450K miles on them and still running strong but obviously there will be a few things you will need to check up on. A car with that many miles will have worn parts like valvesprings, lifters, etc. A few percautions i would take would be to do a compression test/leakdown test first. Then replace a couple cheap ignition components that tend to corrode with that many miles like the cap and rotor, coil, and your spark plugs along with new wires. There are a few things you have to do, if you don't know already, about throwing nitrous on a basically stock stang. You will need to run colder plugs, you will need more fuel depending on the hit you are planning to use (255lph fuel pump and perhaps even a fuel regulator if not new injectors, and bump your timing up.) All these things aren't mandatory, but will help ALOT when throwing on juice on a high mileage car. Good luck.
 
fiveo'cobra said:
not necessarily. Alot of it depends on the maintainance of the car. There are 94/95 stangs with over 450K miles on them and still running strong but obviously there will be a few things you will need to check up on. A car with that many miles will have worn parts like valvesprings, lifters, etc. A few percautions i would take would be to do a compression test/leakdown test first. Then replace a couple cheap ignition components that tend to corrode with that many miles like the cap and rotor, coil, and your spark plugs along with new wires. There are a few things you have to do, if you don't know already, about throwing nitrous on a basically stock stang. You will need to run colder plugs, you will need more fuel depending on the hit you are planning to use (255lph fuel pump and perhaps even a fuel regulator if not new injectors, and bump your timing up.) All these things aren't mandatory, but will help ALOT when throwing on juice on a high mileage car. Good luck.



I really hope you mean LOWER your timing...not increase!


Definately get colder plugs and a FPR and fuel pump...cheap compared to a new block/rotating assembly!
 
It's not that hard at all, just requires a little bit of time and you'll probably not want to wear your Sunday's best as it will most likely require laying on your back bench pressing the tank out/in. That being said, yes it does require dropping the tank, so do so when you are closer to empty rather than full, it makes it that much easier.
 
I am breaking down and putting spray on my car for next year's FFW Street Stang Class I was very close this year and all I need is a 50 shot to get me where I need to be I am about as paranoid as can be seeing I just put a brand new engine in so I will tune and tune some more once I get it in.
 
fiveotony said:
I am breaking down and putting spray on my car for next year's FFW Street Stang Class I was very close this year and all I need is a 50 shot to get me where I need to be I am about as paranoid as can be seeing I just put a brand new engine in so I will tune and tune some more once I get it in.

wow, what a run-on, hehehe.

are you running an auto or manual, kevin? personally, i'm going to stay away from nitrous, but if i had an auto, i would definately put in at least a 75 shot.
 
fiveo'cobra said:
A car with that many miles will have worn parts like valvesprings, lifters, etc.
all that is including when you get new heads right? or at least the Trickflow kit? im getting a 50 shot to after i do the trick flow kit on my car, and im gonna get 24lbs inj to. so i should be all good right?oh yeah and stock timing.
 
Kevin R. said:
I have an auto.

What kind of numbers do you think I would see with stock + 75 shot.

If it's not that big of gain I won't risk it, plus it's not cheap.
I think that if you sprayed a 75 shot, you could see high 13's. A guy on here (gcomfx or something like that) I believe runs a 125 shot on his auto with a 3000 stall, 4.10's, the basic bolt ons and I think a Cobra intake and runs high 12's.
 
Ram000 said:
lol, well, theoretically, our stock 215+75=290. don't quote me on that, though.
Well sort of, really its more like:
215-20%=~175RWHP
Then if you figure you really get 75 RWHP out of a 75 shot (which most dyno tend to prove that you won't get 75 HP to the rear wheels) you are looking at more around 250 RWHP. Tack on your list of mods and maybe 260 RWHP. That may be good enough for low 14's and maybe high 13's, but with an auto nothing is for sure.
 
Ok when I first dynoed my car ever it made 214rwhp 270 rwtq with basic bolts ons and 140k miles on it. Turned the nitrous to it to the tune of 100 hp dry shot and picked up 98 RWHP and 160 RWTQ. This was all done on a Mustang Dynometer. Only reason I replaced my motor is I was not getting any faster.
 
SQUEEZE&STROKE said:
I really hope you mean LOWER your timing...not increase!


Definately get colder plugs and a FPR and fuel pump...cheap compared to a new block/rotating assembly!

Don't get a new Fuel Pressure Regulator, tune everything to stock at 39psi. If you want to add / remove fuel, then buy a TwEECer / PMS and play with your a/f ratio that way.

The EEC in our computer will negate any fuel pressure adjustments after a bit of runtime until it sees the magic sweetspot for 39psi. For example, if you take your car and get it tuned at 42 PSI and it runs awesome, after a while the computer will adjust that back down to 39 and it won't run as tuned.

A lot of guys think the T4M0 in our cars runs fuel pressure like the older Fox A9L computer, but it doesn't. The A9L is a much more basic computer and won't adjust the pressure back down but the T4M0 will.

- Adam
 
94MustangGT5.0 said:
Well sort of, really its more like:
215-20%=~175RWHP
Then if you figure you really get 75 RWHP out of a 75 shot (which most dyno tend to prove that you won't get 75 HP to the rear wheels) you are looking at more around 250 RWHP. Tack on your list of mods and maybe 260 RWHP. That may be good enough for low 14's and maybe high 13's, but with an auto nothing is for sure.

wow, that sucks... i thought the 215hp our cars were rated at stock was already after the 20% discount. :bang:
 
Guero said:
all that is including when you get new heads right? or at least the Trickflow kit? im getting a 50 shot to after i do the trick flow kit on my car, and im gonna get 24lbs inj to. so i should be all good right?oh yeah and stock timing.

Im not 100% sure on what came with the Trickflow kit, but i think it had pretty much everything you need: pushrods, lifters, valvesprings (pretty sure the heads come complete.) With a combo like that, 24# injectors are sufficient but since you are planning on running nitrous through it, i'd go with at least 30#ers since you might decide to run a bigger hit in the future. With bigger injectors you wont really need a AFPR, since all it does is it makes your current injectors run more fuel aka spray like bigger injectors, but you might need one for fine adjustments.

As far as timing is concerned it should run fine on stock timing with a small shot like that. Just make sure you have a bigger fuel pump and colder plugs. Timing will give you a nice boost in hp though. If you have a timing light handy you can adjust your timing within minutes. Go to the track and you wanna spray? bump it down. Then when you leave for the street, bump it up and get an instant 5-10hp.
 
fiveo'cobra said:
Im not 100% sure on what came with the Trickflow kit, but i think it had pretty much everything you need: pushrods, lifters, valvesprings (pretty sure the heads come complete.) With a combo like that, 24# injectors are sufficient but since you are planning on running nitrous through it, i'd go with at least 30#ers since you might decide to run a bigger hit in the future. With bigger injectors you wont really need a AFPR, since all it does is it makes your current injectors run more fuel aka spray like bigger injectors, but you might need one for fine adjustments.

As far as timing is concerned it should run fine on stock timing with a small shot like that. Just make sure you have a bigger fuel pump and colder plugs. Timing will give you a nice boost in hp though. If you have a timing light handy you can adjust your timing within minutes. Go to the track and you wanna spray? bump it down. Then when you leave for the street, bump it up and get an instant 5-10hp.
i doubt i would want a bigger shot. so if i use a 50 shot with the heads and all 24lbs inj are to small? and how colder on the plugs? and i need a new fuel pump?
 
Guero said:
i doubt i would want a bigger shot. so if i use a 50 shot with the heads and all 24lbs inj are to small? and how colder on the plugs? and i need a new fuel pump?

1 - Yes, I believe that 24s are too small. I'm putting together a combo similar to yours and I personally feel that 24s are too small N/A, nevermind with N2O. Definately step it up to 30s. The injector pulse width will be a little harder to dial in (as Grady has taught me :hail2: ) but I'd rather tune more then ping more.

2 - Just one step colder. Stockers are autolite 25s, so switch to autolite 24s, etc.

3 - Yes, you need a new fuel pump even without the spray. Get a 255lph in tank pump and don't worry about it every again.

4 - While you are at it, just step it up to a 100 shot. You might as well.

5 - As far as timing is concerned, you're going to find that your car will run better with a little timing advance over stock anyway. Aluminum cylinder heads tend to like a bit more advance then irons do.

- Adam