nitrous?

[usaf_branham]

I understand that the high cylinder pressure at low rpms is what produces the crazy torque I get from the twin screw. I make 435 lbs of tq at around 2200 rpm.

With that being said, I know that our powdered rods and hyperutectic (forgive my spelling) are the weak links in our motors. My understanding was that the load increase from rpm, especially past 6000 rpm is usually what caused the rods to give out. The crappy pistons are prone to ring land destruction with detonation, which is why a spot on tune is so important.

So, I may be a tad bit confused here, but I was always under the impression that as long as the tune was spot on, and the rpms did not go over 6k, stock 2 valves are pretty much safe (so long as horsepower did not go over approx 425 at the wheels).

I am not a nitrous guy, but logic would tell me that if my stock shortblock can handle cracking the throttle at around 2500 rpm, boost goes straight to 9 psi (which is alot of cylinder pressure), than a stock n/a shortblock should be able to take a pretty decent hit of nitrous around the same rpm range and not suffer from a tossed rod or shattered ring land, so long as the tune is spot on, and the horsepower is under 425 at the wheels. Or am I comparing apples to oranges here?

I know the threshold is between 400 and 450 depending on the motor, I am using 425 as an average frame of reference.

 

[trombonedemon]

Yea, that's what I figured the overall meaning of that comment was.

So just for future reference: 450 ft-lbs of torque at 2500 rpm isn't going to stress anything any more than 450 ft-lbs of torque at 5000 rpm?

So which would have more of an impact, a punch thrown at 2 mph's at 200 psi or a punch thrown at 50 miles per hour, also at 200 mph's.

Doesn't the engine stress less at 2500 rpm then 5000 rpms.


O.p. Stress is stress, no matter what the power adder is, your original assumption is correct.

You might wanna uprade your lower intake though, and or get some direct port injection, although those are pretty but pricey.

Along with aforementioned ugraded fuel pumps and injectors, so on and so forth.

For me, dry kits would seem safer.

 

[Tim2002GT]

A dry kit would require pretty much a spot on tune, bigger fuel injectors, higher volume fuel pump, etc. A wet kit is more user friendly IMO. From what I have seen, with a wet kit you would normally lose an intake manifold when something goes wrong. With a dry kit you have a greater chance of losing the motor if something goes wrong.

 

[trombonedemon]

A dry kit would require pretty much a spot on tune, bigger fuel injectors, higher volume fuel pump, etc. A wet kit is more user friendly IMO. From what I have seen, with a wet kit you would normally lose an intake manifold when something goes wrong. With a dry kit you have a greater chance of losing the motor if something goes wrong.

No more of a greater chance then a wet kit, you hit the nail on the head when you said a spot on tune though.

The extra equipment is gonna be needed anyway, if I am gonna have to replace something like a fuel pump and injectors might as well upgrade with tune. I mean either way can make some decent numbers, I still think the direct port injection with dry is a safe way to go.

Its still possible to use a dry kit with out upgrading any of the accesories, make sure the Mass Air Flow sensor and Fuel Injectors is in tip top shape or lean and early detonation we go.

Plus, you have new fuel pump and injectors if one wants to go forced-induction.

But JUST, to contradict myself, I'm wanting a Wet kit as we speak.

 

[Stumbaugh]

You do not have to upgrade fuel injectors, MAF, or have a tune with a wet kit.

With a 100 shot, you do not have to upgrade the fuel pump either.

A wet kit is WAY more fogiving and more safe than a dry kit. I have made a pass in my car and forgot that I had the n/a tune in it. Right before I passed the finish line I glanced at the wide band and saw it was in the mid 12:5 AFR's. I wouldnt have made it thru 2nd gear if that was a dry kit, because the AFR's would have been off the charts area. The added fuel is just insurance.

 

[Tim2002GT]

People will prefer one or the other, but for me I enjoy knowing that I'm simply a fuel jet away from fine tuning my a/f ratio. Good luck doing that with a dry kit, lol!

 

[trombonedemon]

You do not have to upgrade fuel injectors, MAF, or have a tune with a wet kit.

With a 100 shot, you do not have to upgrade the fuel pump either.

A wet kit is WAY more fogiving and more safe than a dry kit. I have made a pass in my car and forgot that I had the n/a tune in it. Right before I passed the finish line I glanced at the wide band and saw it was in the mid 12:5 AFR's. I wouldnt have made it thru 2nd gear if that was a dry kit, because the AFR's would have been off the charts area. The added fuel is just insurance.

I'm gonna want a tune, Fuel Injectors, and a Fuel-Pump if I am gonna have a dry kit, no matter what size nozzle.

Used to wish engines came in packs of 12, then just started to want to "over safe" my installs.
:OT:
Just got a Professional Products intake and the Nitrous bug hit me. Its really better then what I've been reading on the internet, plus it is to me is outdoing my Stock intake and my Crappy Piece of S***T Dorman intake. Which started leaking a year and a half after my install. Had to get that off my chest. My bad, for the digression.

 

[duzy]

Get a plate kit. Most of the people I have talked to who have nozzle kit's wish they would have went with a plate.

I am running a Nitrous Express 2v plate kit and absolutely love it.

On top of a basic nitrous kit, I would recommend getting a purge, MSD digital window switch, and a bottle heater.

As far as shot goes, a 150 shot is the safe limit on the stock plastic intake. I have seen people spray more than that, but 150 seems to be the "safest".

If you are looking for a basic nitrous kit tho, and just want something to spray every now and then, look in the ZEX stuff. They are very user friendly and easy to wire up.

what is a good plate kit and where would i get one?

 

[sneaky98gt]

I'm gonna want a tune, Fuel Injectors, and a Fuel-Pump if I am gonna have a dry kit, no matter what size nozzle.

Used to wish engines came in packs of 12, then just started to want to "over safe" my installs.

I still think you are missing his point. His point is that with a wet kit, if something goes wrong (i.e. backfire), at worst, you lose the intake manifold. With a dry kit, if something goes wrong, you lose the entire motor.

And on top of that, tuning a wet kit is much easier as it doesn't require a new dyno tune for any change. If you tune a dry kit for a 75 shot, and then decide you want to go up to 125 shot, it's going to cost an entire $300 dyno tune to change it. With a wet kit, all you have to do is change the jet.

 

[Stumbaugh]

I'm gonna want a tune, Fuel Injectors, and a Fuel-Pump if I am gonna have a dry kit, no matter what size nozzle.

Used to wish engines came in packs of 12, then just started to want to "over safe" my installs.
:OT:
Just got a Professional Products intake and the Nitrous bug hit me. Its really better then what I've been reading on the internet, plus it is to me is outdoing my Stock intake and my Crappy Piece of S***T Dorman intake. Which started leaking a year and a half after my install. Had to get that off my chest. My bad, for the digression.

Yeah I know you are going to want a tune, fuel injectors, and a bigger fuel pump with a dry kit, because you are going to need that stuff. I said you dont need that stuff with a WET kit.

 

[Stumbaugh]

what is a good plate kit and where would i get one?

A Nitrous Express 2v plate kit:

Nitrous Express » Next Generation Nitrous Oxide Systems » 4.6L 2 VALVE PLATE SYSTEM (50-150HP) 200HP-300HP JETTING AVAILABLE WITH 10LB BOTTLE

Harris Speed works 2v plate kit:

Harris Speed Works :: EFI Nitrous Kits :: Ford Vehicles :: Mustang :: Mustang '99 - '04 :: HSW Wet Nitrous Kits :: Sudden Impact Wet Plate Nitrous Kit

I would use one of these 2 kits. Both are very nice and great quality.

 

[trombonedemon]

I still think you are missing his point. His point is that with a wet kit, if something goes wrong (i.e. backfire), at worst, you lose the intake manifold. With a dry kit, if something goes wrong, you lose the entire motor.

.

Soooo, your saying that if there is a nitrous backfire most one would lose is an intake?

 

[trombonedemon]

With a 100 shot, you do not have to upgrade the fuel pump either.

Which is it that you were refering to dry or wet kit, with that statement?

Just out curiosity, O.P. are you planning to get a better Lower Intake Manifold?

 

[Stumbaugh]

Which is it that you were refering to dry or wet kit, with that statement?

Just out curiosity, O.P. are you planning to get a better Lower Intake Manifold?

wet

 

[Tim2002GT]

Soooo, your saying that if there is a nitrous backfire most one would lose is an intake?

With a wet kit, yes. Usually it is due to having too much fuel and not enough air velocity moving through the intake. Basically spraying it at too low of an rpm.

I'm not saying that worse things can't happen, but typically the intake goes first.

 

[trombonedemon]

With a wet kit, yes. Usually it is due to having too much fuel and not enough air velocity moving through the intake. Basically spraying it at too low of an rpm.

I'm not saying that worse things can't happen, but typically the intake goes first.

I've seen some wicked pictures of what both kits can do.

Cracked piston heads, bent rods which lead to ring failure, main bearing failure. All at once.

Gotta tell ya', I'm not seeing only a busted intake with a back fire. Burned intake valves, also. Metal intakes bust into pieces as well, that Cobra intake on the dyno was like a live grenade attached to an engine.

If the Hood was closed, you can add that to the shrapnel, sorry for the spelling.

Making anything the safest possible is gonna empty a wallet fast.

 

[duzy]

ok what if i have an aftermarket throttle body/ plenum

 

[Tim2002GT]

Those mods should not effect how the nitrous system works, wet or dry kit.

 

[trombonedemon]

ok what if i have an aftermarket throttle body/ plenum

Where are putting the spray nozzle?

 

[duzy]

I mean like if a get a port kit would the kit line up to the aftermarket part? like i got a bbk 78mm t/b and plenum would it line up to the port?