No brake lights or blinkers- What could it be!!!

sore

New Member

Sep 26, 2006

43

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Lumberton,TX/Kenner,Louisiana (Home Town)

Nov 27, 2006

#1

• Nov 27, 2006

• #1

I just noticed that my blinkers are not working, and my brake lights don't come on. The 3rd. brake light on the trunk does come on. Does anyone know what may be causing this???


Thanks,

 

TripleBlack95

Member

Dec 14, 2003

153

1

16

Burke (Fairfax), VA

Nov 27, 2006

#2

• Nov 27, 2006

• #2

Check all of your fuses. When that happened in my 95 it was a blown fuse.

 

sore

New Member

Sep 26, 2006

43

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Lumberton,TX/Kenner,Louisiana (Home Town)

Nov 27, 2006

#3

• Nov 27, 2006

• #3

all of the fuses look good.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

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Nov 27, 2006

#4

• Nov 27, 2006

• #4

The MF switch can do it. I'd check I/O's at that switch.

Good luck.

 

sore

New Member

Sep 26, 2006

43

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0

Lumberton,TX/Kenner,Louisiana (Home Town)

Nov 27, 2006

#5

• Nov 27, 2006

• #5

Where is the MF switch located, what does MF stand for?

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Nov 27, 2006

#6

• Nov 27, 2006

• #6

sore said:

Where is the MF switch located, what does MF stand for?

Click to expand...

MF switch = multi-function switch = your turn signal switch.

The tell here is that the high mount light works. That tells you that the BOO works (brake on/off switch). You can see where the rear left and right brake lights and turn signal lights all go through the MF switch (top left quadrant of this picture ).
Good luck.

 

sore

New Member

Sep 26, 2006

43

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Lumberton,TX/Kenner,Louisiana (Home Town)

Nov 27, 2006

#7

• Nov 27, 2006

• #7

Thanks, I go pick one up and give it a try.

 

smitty_64

New Member

May 27, 2006

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Nov 27, 2006

#8

• Nov 27, 2006

• #8

Did you recently change something?

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

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129

Nov 27, 2006

#9

• Nov 27, 2006

• #9

Whoa whoa whoa - don't go buying expensive parts. There's are other items that can cause the issue - that's why we do the testing at the switch. They're known to having connectors back out, etc. And that's a free 5 minute fix.

I'd first just want to check I/O's at the MF switch and confirm that the switch is bad before plunking down some coin on a 'let's hope it fixes it' situation.

I assume that people check things like bulb grounds, etc, or I recommend it down the line if your testing at the MF switch is ok (that you have output). So my suggestion about the MF switch was for diagnostics, not a 'fix'.

Just trying to save you some cash.

Good luck.

 

sore

New Member

Sep 26, 2006

43

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Lumberton,TX/Kenner,Louisiana (Home Town)

Nov 28, 2006

#10

• Nov 28, 2006

• #10

Gotcha! I haven't purchased it yet, i will do some testing later today.

Smitty, I havent changed anything recently, but a week ago the car would crank but not start. I turns out that it was the PIP. But before I replaced the PIP i did mess around under the dash because i thought it may have had something to do with the aftermarket alarm. Maybe i knocked something loose!

Thanks,

 

G

Green 94 5.0

Founding Member

Mar 25, 2002

2,601

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79

Ft. Lauderdale, FL

Nov 29, 2006

#11

• Nov 29, 2006

• #11

it was a fuse for me as well. mine would pop every time the car would move forward. it turns out the clutch pedal assembly had rubbed through the insulation on a wire under the dash and it would touch just enough to short when the car starts rolling forward.

 

droptopford 5 0

Member

Mar 31, 2005

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Nov 29, 2006

#12

• Nov 29, 2006

• #12

i had a similar problem over the summer except it would pop a fuse and cause the 3rd brake to go as well. it turned out to be a wiring short near the clutch pedal assembly but the only other option was the MF switch and i woud highly suggest testing that... it will probably be the MF switch and is the piece with the blinker/ high beam lever attached to it. good luck!

 

smitty_64

New Member

May 27, 2006

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Nov 29, 2006

#13

• Nov 29, 2006

• #13

It doesn't sound like you were anywhere near the cabling for your brakes/blinkers. I'm with Hissin. It is so easy for connectors to back themselves off because of vibration after a while. It has to be something very simple. I definitely wouldn't buy anything until you have or a friend that knows how to use a multimeter has gotten in there to make sure you have continuity and the switch is good.