No High/Low beams!

[NotoriousGT350]

This is just one of many problems with my 89'. Let me start off that every now and then, I use to have problems with my headlights at night when I use my turn signal switch, they would turn off. BUT, they would come on if I wiggle the turn signal lever and wouldn't have a problem for a while. Figure it did not have a good contact.

Fast forward to a few weeks ago. Upon turn on my headlights, nothing happen. Parking lamps are on, but now High or Low beams. YET, the headlights come on when I pull the lever towards me for the "passing" function.

So I ordered the turn signal switch repair wiring harness from 5.0Resto that plugs into the multifuction switch. I had to rewire a few things, but manange, connected it, and check to see if my headlights work and nothing. BTW, done this today.

So I went online and ordered the turn signal Lever assembly since mine has some play in it, hence why I can wiggle it around. Now I'm hoping this will work. I forgot to mention, I checked the headlight switch and I'm getting power on all the terminals for headlights, parking lights, fogs, etc. So I scratch the idea of it being my headlight switch.




Anyone ever had a problem with their turn signal lever having some play in it and causing problems with your headlights??

This is just one of my little problems I have with the 89' right now. Waiting on my driver side door lock actuator to come in(Had problems not being able to open the driver side door from the inside/outside), putting on a new hatch striker because the plastic broke on the original and it takes me like 4-5 tries to close the hatch.

 

[HISSIN50]

I've had MF issues on other cars before due to looseness in the switchgear.

If you had headlight output from the headlight switch to the MF switch and the wiring going into and out of the MF switch was sound (the terminals didnt back out. I had the feed [red/yel IIRC] back out on me once and the headlight switch power wasn't reaching the MF switch), then the MF is what's left.

The fact that flash-to-pass works shows that the wiring from the MF switch to the lights is good. YOu can still test in and out voltage at the MF switch if you desire.

Good luck.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

I hate electrical grimlins. Once I get the turn signal lever in and put it on, I'll test it out. If my headlights still don't come on, them I'll have to trace back all the wiring and see what's "hot".

Hands start getting a little cold in 30-40 degree weather. We'll see what happens.

Thanks for the info.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

I think you made the right choice replacing the multi-function switch. Had to do it in my 90 GT along with the headlight switch over the 3 years I had it. Exact same symptoms.

 

[dec322]

My headlights did this exact same thing just last week. I didn't test anything, I just went out and bought a new headlight switch. I know that you said you tested it and it was good but maybe you should check again.

I mean, my headlights did the EXACT same thing (parking lamps, brights, pulling the lever) EXACT.

After the new switch, everything works perfectly. Unfortunately I didn't know that the switch could be pulled out from the front and I took alot of things apart to get to the back of the switch. Learning process I guess.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Since the Multi switch repair kit didn't work, I'm going to try the lever. If that doesn't work, then I might as well get the headlight switch.

Once I have it all squared away, hopefully sometime soon, I want to do the foglight fix to run my foglights whenever without burning up the small gauge wiring. With my fox having around 208K miles, I've replaced and rebuild a lot of things in the past year.

Example, rebuild tranny and new clutch last year, new rack and pinion, total rebuild of rear end, new shocks and struts, cluth quadrant/cable, new front disc rotors. All this was 3 months ago.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Well I put on the new turn signal lever Saturday and now my headlights work

I made sure my parking lamps, high/low beams worked, and they did. Well, I accidently left the parking lamps on and went to work Sat. night and my battery was dead. I've had the current battery for 3 years and replaced it today. Car turns on and I notice the "battery amp" indicator on, my factory voltometer reading low, and of course my instrument lights are dim and the turn signal flasher blinks pretty slow.

I figure after driving around this afternoon everything will charge up, but it's still the same. Will it take some time or could the alt. be out now? Never had a problem with it before. Suggestions and hints are welcome.

J.R.

 

[HISSIN50]

Ruh Roh. Once you got the car jumped and it ran for a minute, you really should have had full use of turn signals and such (esp if you have a 3G - that one I can speak about with certainty).

Does the battery light stay on constantly? Is there any chance you bumped the wiring to the light? There's a 12 volt signal from the ignition switch to the Amp light and then it goes to the Alt regulator. When the regulator sees voltage greater than the min. threshold (I think it's around 10 volts but don't quote me), the regulator removes the ground that makes the amp light illuminate. I'd ensure that you have 12 volts reaching the regulator and note the alternator output (at the alt) while you do this.

If that amp circuit was disturbed, that can keep the alt from working properly. Otherwise if the regulator wiring and the power cable and its circuit protection are good, a bench test of the alt might be a way to go.

I'd note that if the car runs alright, parts stores can dynamically test the components while it idles.

Random thoughts.
Good luck.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Yeah, I thought about taking the car to auto zone and have them check the alt and battery. The light has been on coninuously since I put the new battery on. When I put on the new turn signal lever Sat. to check the lights, I had no problem with the indicator coming on and my turns signals worked fine like the battery was fully charged.

Now that I ran the old battery down and replaced it today, I have the problems with voltometer reading low, battery indicator on, etc.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Took it to Auto Zone and reading is showing 11.1 volts and 9amps. Guy says my alt is not charging If it's not one thing, it's another. So I'm going to wait til the weekend to put on a new alt. I don't know if it's ever been replace since I bought the car with 160K miles and had it for 3 years now.

 

[HISSIN50]

I'd recommend having the alt bench tested (if the previous test was dynamic - done with the alt in the car) before plunkin down for a new one (If funds allow, do the 3G upgrade - it's well worth it!).

Good luck.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Had my mechanic take a look Tuesday. Looks like I'll be replacing the alt sometime this weekend.

About how long will it take?

 

[HISSIN50]

Had my mechanic take a look Tuesday. Looks like I'll be replacing the alt sometime this weekend.

About how long will it take?

Are you upgrading to a bigger alt (highly recommended)?

If doing a stock replacement, figure about 15 minutes.

If doing a 3G, it can be done in about an hour (with running a new charge cable and bracket grinding). I'd figure on a couple hours in case you get stuck with something (the first time I do something, I go nice and slow so I can take mental notes). It's very simple.

Oh, if you do a 6G, you should not need to grind the bracket (it has a smaller case).

Good luck.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Well Saturday I bought an alt from Auto Zone, just a Duralast replacement. Charged the battery, cleaned my K&N filter, and took out the old alt and replaced it. Everything is running fine and I'm so excited that now I can finally park my cobra in the garage and drive the 89' around.

Thanks for tips and suggestions. Later on I might plan on upgrading the alt if I ever decide when I want to rebuild the motor. Figure I can replace a lot of old things and upgrade to some higher quality pieces.

 

[HISSIN50]

Glad to hear it. Having a spare 2G around isnt all bad - if you do the 3G upgrade and an alt craps out, you can go back to the 2G while warranty work is done on the 3G.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Sounds like a pretty good plan. Next on my "To do" list is put in the driver side door lock actuator, then fixing my speakers or the wiring for it.