Engine No start after timing chain replacement??
- Thread starter ImportSlayer347
- Start date
Jesel Belt Drive- currently. I did find out however that a chain is only good for 900 crankshaft horsepower the hard way. lol I still have it somewhere, i'll have to take a picture of it if I can dig it out. Kinda funny looking back on it.
ive always heard that and i find it hard to believe that belt is stronger then a chain. ive seen the springs and
we run on the 275 car and that belt must be made of some good stuff!
I hear that. What comp cams told me a while back was the transfer of harmonics has more to do with it than anything else. I hear you about the springs, i'm over 300# on the seat with the valve closed on my "street car"
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
heck, I remember back in the days when I was a kid, we used to run a gear drive instead of a timing chain a few of our engines after they snapped racing the car. Sounded like a supercharger , lol.
if i remember right we are somewhere near 390# at the seat closed. i know the springs are spec'd for a 1" cam. so i see that little belt and start to wonder
Well I finally got back to this after working all day every day. Turns out the MSD box is no good. I shorted the white wire like the MSD Tech said to and I got no spark from the coil. He said definitely a bad MSD box. I got another one coming today. I got almost 8 years out of it so I guess I can't be mad.
f8tlfiveo
My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
Anytime I see the word MSD on this forum it is related to buying another one, cause the last one no longer works.. I don't think I will ever "upgrade" to an MSD anything..
Ok. So I installed a new MSD box. My meter shows I have 12v to the box. However, the orange wire on the coil harness is showing no voltage.
I did the MSD tech's short test again. Still nothing with a brand new box. I have 12v going to the box itself, but no voltage going to the coil harness (orange wire). And when I short the white wire to the block I still get nothing.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I don't get why people are so quick to add an aftermarket ignition box or coil to stock or near stock applications. The stock coil and ignition have worked on cars that I have made well over 400hp. Ford makes some pretty good parts OEM.
That's why you see so many damn MSD 6's boxes for sale. They are prone to failure.
That's why you see so many damn MSD 6's boxes for sale. They are prone to failure.
I got it to spark doing the short test. But I still have no spark when trying to crank it over. So the box and coil are good. So I guess its on to testing the TFI module?
i did it becuase the factory limiter cuts fuel and not spark. the MSD cuts spark and not fuel. next big mod for my car is a bottle. if im spraying tap the limiter some how and it cuts fuel off the injector and still sparks im in for a world of hurt when it hits that hole.
that and i wanted a 2 step
on the race car we have run a 7530 box and have switched over to a power grid. both have given us zero issues for the last 6 years or so
How can I test the ignition module on the distributor? I was thinking I could take it off and take it to the Zone and have them do it. But I have a meter and a test light. I was reading below but the wires on my harness are different colors.
"C.) TFI module: use a test light to check the TFI module. Place one lead of the test light on the red/green wire on the ignition coil connector and the other lead on the dark green/yellow wire on the ignition coil connector. If the TFI is working properly, the test light will flash when the engine is cranked using the ignition switch."
"C.) TFI module: use a test light to check the TFI module. Place one lead of the test light on the red/green wire on the ignition coil connector and the other lead on the dark green/yellow wire on the ignition coil connector. If the TFI is working properly, the test light will flash when the engine is cranked using the ignition switch."
OK, so let me get this straight. The thread title is "No start after timing chain replacement". The method you used for replacing the timing chain has clearly been determined to have been wrong by several who have contributed to this thread on your behalf. Having changed nothing else, (but the timing chain you didn't install correctly) you now have a bad MSD box, (that has been replaced, but still wont work) and now are looking at other possible electrical dead things, which were all working when you chose to replace the chain.
Have you confirmed that your chain installation is correct yet?
Have you confirmed that your chain installation is correct yet?
OK, so let me get this straight. The thread title is "No start after timing chain replacement". The method you used for replacing the timing chain has clearly been determined to have been wrong by several who have contributed to this thread on your behalf. Having changed nothing else, (but the timing chain you didn't install correctly) you now have a bad MSD box, (that has been replaced, but still wont work) and now are looking at other possible electrical dead things, which were all working when you chose to replace the chain.
Have you confirmed that your chain installation is correct yet?
madmike1157 & I have the same question - have you???jrichker said:
If no, install the timing chain correctly and then follow the " Cranks OK but no start checklist for fuel injected Mustangs" I posted
If yes, follow the " Cranks OK but no start checklist for fuel injected Mustangs" I posted
Follow the checklist faithfully and you will get it running....
gearheadboy
15 Year Member
I'm gonna have to say pull the cover and line up the dots. Truth hurts but if you didn't leave anything obviously unplugged, suck it up and tear it down.
I talked to the guy that helped me and I asked him if he remembered lining up the dots. He said he turned the crank by hand with the old chain still on and lined it up. I didn't know he did that but I'm glad he did. When I took the old sprocket and chain off, I put the new set on exactly how the old ones came off. They would only go on one way because of the notches.
Sigh,......
An old worn chain w/ slack in it will allow for slop in the alignment when trying to hang a new "tight" chain in it's place. Couple that to the fact that there may have been slight movement due to the fact that you changed it w/ spring pressure trying to move the whole thing around is almost a sure bet it's off one tooth.
An old worn chain w/ slack in it will allow for slop in the alignment when trying to hang a new "tight" chain in it's place. Couple that to the fact that there may have been slight movement due to the fact that you changed it w/ spring pressure trying to move the whole thing around is almost a sure bet it's off one tooth.Similar threads
