NO TPS and runs way stronger????

Well before the insert of the Checklist, The TPS gives the computer another measurement to calculate total load (Correct me if I am wrong) without it the computer would either be MAX or MIN all the time. (Again Correct me if I am Wrong).

It would be best to find out exactly what is causing your car to run bad in the first place. Perhaps the TPS signal is what was causing the issue. If you have an O-scope you can test the curve of your TPS sensor to make sure it has a consistent and progressive analog signal. You can use a regular Volt meter, make sure the Voltage is near or below 1 volt at idle, and above or near 5 volts at WOT.

Again I am sure this is covered in the checklist. I had the same issue a while back with my 6AL, but I fixed so many wiring issues that eventually it fixed itself.

But if your TPS being unplugged makes more power, than that right there would ask the question about whether your wiring for the TPS to the computer is faulty or not.

Good luck.

TenorPlayinGuy said:

Well before the insert of the Checklist, The TPS gives the computer another measurement to calculate total load (Correct me if I am wrong) without it the computer would either be MAX or MIN all the time. (Again Correct me if I am Wrong).

Click to expand...

Nope, not even close.

http://*******.com/index.php/topic,1031.0.html
WTF is that site filtered?

The following will get you a link to the page:
http://www.google.com/search?q=Last+Edit:+November+24,+2006,+08:54:53+pm+by+Joel5.0&btnG=Search

Basically, it's the RATE OF CHANGE that the EEC cares about wrt to the TPS. It gets down to simple basic physics and engine design - the need for "accelerator pump and dashpot".

So, screwing around with the TPS is a Ricer MOD - foolish.


Back to the OP, did you read the EEC codes? If not, then why are you even touching the engine and sensors??