Non H.O. cam with H.O. again..

[Mustang5L5]

But i'm not seeing the MAF or BAP sensor codes that i would expect with a SD wiring setup, and MA ecu. Perhaps it is the right ECU for the setup.

If you can look at the ECU it will clear it up. The code helps, but the ultimate confirmation will be some digits on the label.

For exampled..

Top left corner it says EECIV SFI- MA12. SFI stands for sequential fuel injection, and the MA stands for Mass Air

As opposed to a speed density HO ECU

SFI is same as above, and SD is Speed Density.

That SD vs MA confirmation is what we need, then we can go from there

 

[B.D. Magoo]

It'll be tomorrow morning but yeah I'll run get that info.
But either way the spark plugs are still wired old school to make it run so I still got that problem lol. I do prefer sd over ma, until now if I had a problem it was either a vacuum line or I done twisted its blasted guts out.. finally put a rev limiter on it to delay the inevitable. But I haven't even had a chance to get started with this one!

 

[Mustang5L5]

With that cam though, it won't really run well with speed density. You'd need a tune, an aftermarket ECU, or a conversion to mass air.

 

[General karthief]

I'm kinda confused, but that is not unusual, I will fallow along though.

 

[B.D. Magoo]

Whats up General? Convo kinda side barred there lol. But I work night shift and my car is not at my house. Stang5L asked for some info I dont have on hand so soon as i leave work tomorrow morning I'll make that hour drive to Dad's to get it. But all my codes are from things I've deleted except the O² sensors are freaking out probably bc my firing order is off.

Stang5L I do hear a lot of people have trouble when camming a sd car. If you go to big and it acts like a direct vacuum leak on the MAP change it to a 85/86-95 GM model sensor. Ford uses a 2bar sensor GM uses a 3bar. The bar is measurement of vacuum I believe and the GM has a setting for less vacuum to accommodate their factory boosted vehicles that works great when you want a big loopy cam. MA cars definitely have an advantage in tuning but SD has always treated me well in plug n play engines. I think if I get a non H.O. ecu from like a 88 Tbird I should be good.. I hope. But I'll snap some pics while I'm at the car, fair warning she's a ugly one, and keep y'all informed as I go.

 

[Mustang5L5]

67 o - neutral safety switch fail
81 o - air diverter selonoid fault
82 o - air diverter circuit fault
85 o - purge solenoid fault
84 o - egr vacuum regulator fail

*15 c - power interruption to computer memory, eec keep alive memory (KAM) failed
------------

8 cyl
idle
41 r - O² sensor voltage low / lean
91 r - O² sensor voltage low / lean
33 r - egr valve not opening

8 cyl
wot
42 r - O² sensor voltage high / rich
92 r - O² sensor voltage high / rich
33 r - egr not opening


*I reset all electronics after I installed the engine.

Other than the O2 codes, none of those codes are major except for the 41/91, 42/92 and the 15. Deleting the EGR and the air diverter and canister purge usually isn't a huge deal.

Code 67 could suggest a wiring harness to the t5 or clutch pedal switch isn't connectred.

Code 15. Is there a chip on the ECU? If not, pin #1 on the ecu should always have 12v+. If it's there, then it's possible the keep alive memory is bad in the ECU.


Your O2 codes suggest something is up with the harness perhaps. While you are grabbing pics of the ECU and the sticker on the ECU (like in the above posts), grab some pics of the o2 harness. the connection to the main engine harness is on the pass side near the header. Your O2 harless on the sensor side will either be a 5-wire harness, or a 7 wire harness. On the engine side, it will also be either a 5 wire harness or a 7/8 wire harness. Can you tell us what you have there, and pics if possible?

I still have yet to see any info that the TFS Stage 2 cam is a non-HO firing order. The cam's been discontinued for a few years, but it was sold as a direct replacemnt for 86-95 Mustangs and plenty of guys ran them. I've yet to ever hear of someone having to change the firing order. I ran a TFS stage 1 cam in a car and it was a HO firing order.

 

[B.D. Magoo]

Yeah I've been digging into the cam today too. It is entirely possible he gave me the paperwork to a different engine to upscale this one. Bc if I knew the firing order was wrong I wouldn't have put it in without putting a proper H.O. cam in 1st, I only paid $1,000 for the engine fully assembled. And with the firing order being wrong the O² sensors wont work correctly bc its firing not only out of sequence with the ecu but on the wrong side for the O²s to do what they do.

 

[B.D. Magoo]

Neutral safety switch was removed for its name sake.. safety lol. Nah it got busted one day when i was changing from stock quad to adjustable. Since it was never plugged up anyway i just removed it.
Code 15 happens when you do an electrical drop on the system. Disconnect only the negative terminal of the battery and run a jumper from the negative cable, not the terminal, to the positive post, still fully connected, and it zaps all residual electrical charge from any and all systems deleting any old codes from last setup. After this code 15 is the only one that should appear after installing a new engine so it has to "relearn" your personal driving style.
Smog pump removed along with all its various components
Full A/C delete
EGR delete with harness plug installed, it will still soft code but no CEL
Vacuum lines to all nonessential components have been removed and plugged. The vacuum canister for the heater control and lines are available but wont be connected unless I need a heater.
I picked up my O² harness from a local mustang graveyard. Guy said it was for the 87-88 and I used the 88 O² sensors and everything snapped right together but I couldn't say how many wires is at the main harness connection. When I 1st got all the stuff out of my buddy's car he didn't have the O² harness or sensors in his.

 

[General karthief]

Disconnect only the negative terminal of the battery and run a jumper from the negative cable, not the terminal, to the positive post, still fully connected, and it zaps all residual electrical charge from any and all systems deleting any old codes from last setup. After this code 15 is the only one that should appear after installing a new engine so it has to "relearn" your personal driving style.

I never heard of this.
Learn something new around here all the time.

 

[B.D. Magoo]

@General karthief yeah it's a neat simple trick only takes about 3 minutes. But if you do it to many times, especially if you do it multiple times in a row, it can burn it out and cause permanent damage but once every few years when I blow a motor hasn't hurt it.. yet. The code 15 should go away once I can drive it for a days but if it stays its shot.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Neutral safety switch was removed for its name sake.. safety lol. Nah it got busted one day when i was changing from stock quad to adjustable. Since it was never plugged up anyway i just removed it.

Except it's not a neutral safety. Only the AOD has it. On the manual cars, it's bypassed from the factory and ford used a clutch safety switch. The neutral switch on the t-5 and clutch pedal is really called a neutral gear switch and tells the ECU when the trans is in neutral so it can adjust idle strategy. Bypassing it can sometimes lead to a hanging idle when slowing down and coming to a stop or between shifts. Just something to keep in mind.

I picked up my O² harness from a local mustang graveyard. Guy said it was for the 87-88 and I used the 88 O² sensors and everything snapped right together but I couldn't say how many wires is at the main harness connection. When I 1st got all the stuff out of my buddy's car he didn't have the O² harness or sensors in his.

So this is where mixing and matching harnesses can get you in trouble. The o2 harness needs to match the ECU trans type, and the main body harness. The early 87-88 harnesses lacked a specific jumper that came on the mass air cars that could send voltage down the wring wire and cause ECU issues.

What did the main engine harness come off?

 

[B.D. Magoo]

Main engine and body harness was the original stock harness I pulled from the 88.
Haven't forgot about looking at my ECU but since y'all askin questions I cant answer without the car I threw it on the trailer and brought it home. Gotta take my trailer back to the shop and I'll remove my kick panel when I get back home. Found a oil leak too on back side of the intake gotta fix that, if oil can get out air can get in and on a speed density that's called a vacuum leak not a oil leak lol.

 

[B.D. Magoo]

 

[Mustang5L5]

From an '88 Mustang correct? But the O2 harness came from a different car?

Ok...lets see what you have for other parts when you get a chance to dig into it.

 

[B.D. Magoo]

Current ECU is a DA1

 

[Mustang5L5]

That's an 87-88 Mustang Speed Density 5-spd ECU.

How about the o2 sensor wiring?

 

[B.D. Magoo]

 

[B.D. Magoo]

8 wires on main plug, 5 on the O² harness, 3 on each sensor.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ok, it appears you have a late-88 engine harness, which was wired in the mass air style of wiring while still running speed density. It needs a jumper on the O2 harness for pin 30 on the ECU.

On the 5-wire O-2 harness, I've highlighted the 5 wires you should have. Can you check these to make sure the colors match the colors on the engine side of the harness? I'm not 100% sure if the 5-wire harness is pinned out the same was as the 7 wire jumpered O2 harness is. I have one at home, but can't check til later. The actual O2 sensor wires are DG/P, BK/LG, DG/P and DB/LG. The White/pink wire is the low oil sensor wire.

The non-highlighted 3 wires are the jumper that would normally be installed. You're would be the MTX pinout. This jumper can be added later by finding a spare plug and taking some pins. Here's a thread showing some details of the jumper just for information.

Electrical - O2 harness repin

This thread is a HOW-TO for the process of repining the o2 sensor harness to match ECU/Trans, in the event the car is swapped. Please do not ask me what the harness should be repined to. The information is out there in an easy google search. Step one. Remove the o2 sensor harness from...

www.stangnet.com

 

[B.D. Magoo]

Awesome. It's getting late for me but I will read this at work tonight and see what I can do when I get off work tomorrow. I'll find out in a day or so if I got a 8KC ecu coming in the mail to help get the firing order straight. It's the 88 Tbird 5.0 but its for an automatic :/