Engine No power after idle

[89ripper]

Normally, I would not do that, but this thing is killing me

I understand, just made for an extra variable to be thrown in. You know, going off of Aero's post a bad ecu could be the source of a lot of problems. I replaced mine with one from ecu exchange and 100% made a difference. One of the traces on the board was burnt up.

 

[JustinTilley86]

We have seen folks replace the capacitors and the ECU still not function 100%. You may get the point that sending the ECU for repair may be something you want to consider.

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I’ve tested the whole computer completely. Literally every single circuit and to add I have 2 others from older cars. I feel pretty confident it’s not in the computer.

 

[JustinTilley86]

If it was/is running rich it would give you a code
If it had a vacuum leak it would code lean.
Just think'n out loud

I blocked every vacuum line and did a smoke test. I did it once from a cold engine to a fully warmed up engine. Haha that’s why this thing is killing me.

 

[nickyb]

Keep going, you know you'll find it the last place you look. Now getting to that last place,well that's the part that kills ya.

 

[General karthief]

I blocked every vacuum line and did a smoke test. I did it once from a cold engine to a fully warmed up engine. Haha that’s why this thing is killing me.

Smoke test will not reveal a bad FPR, pull the vacuum line off and smell it.
A leaking diaphragm will cause fuel to be sucked into the intake and run 'fat'. Especially at idle.

 

[JustinTilley86]

Smoke test will not reveal a bad FPR, pull the vacuum line off and smell it.
A leaking diaphragm will cause fuel to be sucked into the intake and run 'fat'. Especially at idle.

The FPR isn't bad. I most likely having a wiring issue. Even if the FPR was bad for it to smoke black the way it does it would have to have a massive hole in the diaphragm. I had a issue with an injector at first not get the signal for the eec so I ran a overlay to see if it would clear up and it did a little. The issue I face now is it revs up and idles good but any kind of load shuts the car down and will not start back unless to hold WOT to tell the eec the car is flooded.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I reread this whole thread and it’s minor but the fuel pressure caught my eye. Fuel pressure should be 39 psi at idle with the vacuum line disconnected. With it connected it will drop and as the rpm’s come up it will increase with demand. 39 psi at idle with the vacuum connected is not the factory setting. I don’t think this is the issue but it’s not helping.

ECU’s - unless you can confirm the other ECU’s you are trying are good then for me they are suspect as well. Without a breakout box testing them by hand is difficult at best. Other thing is I don’t know how you are testing the chips. What year Mustangs are the older ones out of and what letter designation are they?

Its just odd how the car is running pig rich and you are not getting a CEL for the O2 sensors.

Also, make sure the BAP sensor does not have a vacuum line on it.

 

[JustinTilley86]

I thought I would add this quick update. I’m not even sure why I didn’t check this first. The harmonic balancer spun so it was out of time this whole entire time. I’m waiting for a new one to show up and hopefully everything will be fixed.

 

[AeroCoupe]

That will for sure cause issues. Be sure to let us know if that is the fix or not.

 

[JustinTilley86]

Will do!

 

[90sickfox]

Thats one thing i always forget to mention when giving fox advice. I've been through that more than a few times. If the rubber is bulging at all i replace them. Glad you found that issue.

 

[Flyboy60]

Hello - Bump

 

[Noobz347]

I thought I would add this quick update. I’m not even sure why I didn’t check this first. The harmonic balancer spun so it was out of time this whole entire time. I’m waiting for a new one to show up and hopefully everything will be fixed.

 

[Flyboy60]

Self Termination ?

 

[General karthief]

Self Termination ?

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