Also, you would have to see if it's a dry kit or a wet kit. A Dry kit means that you use whatever fuel you already have.
A wet kit means that the computer adds more fuel to the mixture.
And direct port means that there is a single jet for every cylender.
Swarzkopf said:Wrong. A dry kit is referred to as "dry" because the nitrous kit itself does not inject fuel into the intake tract.
Dry kits generally add fuel by adjusting fuel pressure or injector pulse width.
My own Zex dry kit adjusts vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator when the nitrous is spraying. This raises the fuel pressure and provides the extra fuel necessary to safely inject a 125 shot of nitrous.
Wrong. A dry kit would do this.
A wet kit includes a separate injection jet which sprays fuel into the intake tract.
This can be dangerous on a car like a 3.8L Mustang; most wet kits spray fuel into the intake manifold. 3.8Ls (and 5.0Ls like mine) are not designed to flow fuel through the intake manifold, so this can lead to fuel puddles in the manifold. This is bad, as in the case of a manifold backfire these puddles can ignite, causing a spectacular explosion.
I have to disagree with this. Any car can leave puddles of fuel or nitrous. If you have all the saftey stuff you will be better off. I have a RPM window switch, Fuel Pressure Saftey Switch and an electronic Throttle position sensor all for saftey. If the moons are not aligned correctly, it will not activeate. They all have to be within certain parameters.
Because of this, you generally don't want to use a wet kit below 3000RPM as the engine doesn't generate enough vacuum to safely flow all of the fuel in the intake manifold.
Correct. Direct port injection is by far the most effective and safest means of nitrous injection; it is however also by far the most expensive.
Swarzkopf said:Wrong. A dry kit is referred to as "dry" because the nitrous kit itself does not inject fuel into the intake tract.
Dry kits generally add fuel by adjusting fuel pressure or injector pulse width.
My own Zex dry kit adjusts vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator when the nitrous is spraying. This raises the fuel pressure and provides the extra fuel necessary to safely inject a 125 shot of nitrous.
Wrong. A dry kit would do this.
A wet kit includes a separate injection jet which sprays fuel into the intake tract.
This can be dangerous on a car like a 3.8L Mustang; most wet kits spray fuel into the intake manifold. 3.8Ls (and 5.0Ls like mine) are not designed to flow fuel through the intake manifold, so this can lead to fuel puddles in the manifold. This is bad, as in the case of a manifold backfire these puddles can ignite, causing a spectacular explosion.
Because of this, you generally don't want to use a wet kit below 3000RPM as the engine doesn't generate enough vacuum to safely flow all of the fuel in the intake manifold.
Correct. Direct port injection is by far the most effective and safest means of nitrous injection; it is however also by far the most expensive.
OxMox said:basically what i meant with out writing a whole 'nother half a page. dry kits dont add anymore fuel and a wet kit has an additional nozzle for fuel & can be tuned with your car computer to add more fuel to the mixture... close enough.
either way you can't just swap out the kit your dad has
kits dont add anymore fuel and a wet kit has an additional nozzle for fuel & can be tuned with your car computer to add more fuel to the mixture... close enough
I have to disagree with this. Any car can leave puddles of fuel or nitrous.
If you have all the saftey stuff you will be better off. I have a RPM window switch, Fuel Pressure Saftey Switch and an electronic Throttle position sensor all for saftey. If the moons are not aligned correctly, it will not activeate. They all have to be within certain parameters.
You must not know much about Nitrous. If you don't, leave the thread alone. You can get hurt using it improperly.
Lsredy2kstang said:Well you are wrong sir.
The Dry kit sprays nitrous before the MAF so the computer senses the higher percentage of Oxygen and compensates by adding more fuel via the computer to the injectors.
The wet kit takes a fuel line and with the "jets" in different sizes allows fuel to free flow in the "jets" increments with the nitrous after the MAF to add the extra horsepower.
So you are not close enough. You must not know much about Nitrous. If you don't, leave the thread alone. You can get hurt using it improperly.
I always thought that dry kits go after the MAF and add no additional fuel unless your car gets tuned to?
Please explain to me HOW my car can form puddles of fuel or nitrous in my intake manifold?
NO fuel flows through it....and when the nitrous is injected into the intake track it because gaseous right away.
Great advice. Installing and using nitrous improperly is a good way to destroy your motor.
Dry goes before the MAF. Wet with two nozzles.
lets say the car is off, you accidentally hit the activation button or however you have it hooked up. With a dry kit nothing really happens.
With a wet kit if the car is off but the electronics are on, being listening to the radio the car is in the on/auxillary position and activates you are putting fuel/nitrous into the upper intake thus causing pooling.
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