Nos?

[semperfistang]

couls someone explain the differrent types of nos to me? my dad has a 93 firebird and if you have the nos armed and go full throttle, it sprays. that sounds like a good system to me but what would be good for my 02 v6 with CAI, and cat back Magnaflows?

 

[Swarzkopf]

The different types of "nos"?

LMAO....WOW.

Search the forums. Get a basic understanding. Then post again if you have any questions.

 

[OxMox]

well nawz is something that ricers say. Nitrous, laughing gas, juice, spray are more proper terms. nos (Nitrous Oxide Systems) is made by the company Holley. Basically you would have to actually look at the set-up he has on his firbird, you cant just swap out nitrous kits... it doesnt work like that. Every car has a different setting. you wouldn't put a Venom nitrous kit for a GT on a V6, it would be to much power. But for the most part all nitrous kits are adjustable in sizes. 25, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150, 200, etc. those are the number hp shots. for the V6 Mustang i wouldn't go any higher than a 75hp shot on a compleatly stock motor. Also, you would have to look into maybe getting your car tuned for it, to make sure you have enough fuel, spark, etc. so you dont end up blowing your engine or wrecking peices of your tranny/rear-end (thats mostly from using to big of a shot)

Also, you would have to see if it's a dry kit or a wet kit. A Dry kit means that you use whatever fuel you already have. A wet kit means that the computer adds more fuel to the mixture. And direct port means that there is a single jet for every cylender. If you need anymore info on it, let me know cause i got a bunch of info on nitrous sitting on my comp at home

 

[Swarzkopf]

Also, you would have to see if it's a dry kit or a wet kit. A Dry kit means that you use whatever fuel you already have.

Wrong. A dry kit is referred to as "dry" because the nitrous kit itself does not inject fuel into the intake tract.

Dry kits generally add fuel by adjusting fuel pressure or injector pulse width.

My own Zex dry kit adjusts vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator when the nitrous is spraying. This raises the fuel pressure and provides the extra fuel necessary to safely inject a 125 shot of nitrous.

A wet kit means that the computer adds more fuel to the mixture.

Wrong. A dry kit would do this.

A wet kit includes a separate injection jet which sprays fuel into the intake tract.

This can be dangerous on a car like a 3.8L Mustang; most wet kits spray fuel into the intake manifold. 3.8Ls (and 5.0Ls like mine) are not designed to flow fuel through the intake manifold, so this can lead to fuel puddles in the manifold. This is bad, as in the case of a manifold backfire these puddles can ignite, causing a spectacular explosion.

Because of this, you generally don't want to use a wet kit below 3000RPM as the engine doesn't generate enough vacuum to safely flow all of the fuel in the intake manifold.

And direct port means that there is a single jet for every cylender.

Correct. Direct port injection is by far the most effective and safest means of nitrous injection; it is however also by far the most expensive.

 

[Lsredy2kstang]

Wrong. A dry kit is referred to as "dry" because the nitrous kit itself does not inject fuel into the intake tract.

Dry kits generally add fuel by adjusting fuel pressure or injector pulse width.

My own Zex dry kit adjusts vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator when the nitrous is spraying. This raises the fuel pressure and provides the extra fuel necessary to safely inject a 125 shot of nitrous.



Wrong. A dry kit would do this.

A wet kit includes a separate injection jet which sprays fuel into the intake tract.

This can be dangerous on a car like a 3.8L Mustang; most wet kits spray fuel into the intake manifold. 3.8Ls (and 5.0Ls like mine) are not designed to flow fuel through the intake manifold, so this can lead to fuel puddles in the manifold. This is bad, as in the case of a manifold backfire these puddles can ignite, causing a spectacular explosion.

I have to disagree with this. Any car can leave puddles of fuel or nitrous. If you have all the saftey stuff you will be better off. I have a RPM window switch, Fuel Pressure Saftey Switch and an electronic Throttle position sensor all for saftey. If the moons are not aligned correctly, it will not activeate. They all have to be within certain parameters.

Because of this, you generally don't want to use a wet kit below 3000RPM as the engine doesn't generate enough vacuum to safely flow all of the fuel in the intake manifold.



Correct. Direct port injection is by far the most effective and safest means of nitrous injection; it is however also by far the most expensive.

 

[OxMox]

Wrong. A dry kit is referred to as "dry" because the nitrous kit itself does not inject fuel into the intake tract.

Dry kits generally add fuel by adjusting fuel pressure or injector pulse width.

My own Zex dry kit adjusts vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator when the nitrous is spraying. This raises the fuel pressure and provides the extra fuel necessary to safely inject a 125 shot of nitrous.


Wrong. A dry kit would do this.

A wet kit includes a separate injection jet which sprays fuel into the intake tract.

This can be dangerous on a car like a 3.8L Mustang; most wet kits spray fuel into the intake manifold. 3.8Ls (and 5.0Ls like mine) are not designed to flow fuel through the intake manifold, so this can lead to fuel puddles in the manifold. This is bad, as in the case of a manifold backfire these puddles can ignite, causing a spectacular explosion.

Because of this, you generally don't want to use a wet kit below 3000RPM as the engine doesn't generate enough vacuum to safely flow all of the fuel in the intake manifold.


Correct. Direct port injection is by far the most effective and safest means of nitrous injection; it is however also by far the most expensive.

basically what i meant with out writing a whole 'nother half a page. dry kits dont add anymore fuel and a wet kit has an additional nozzle for fuel & can be tuned with your car computer to add more fuel to the mixture... close enough.
either way you can't just swap out the kit your dad has

 

[Lsredy2kstang]

basically what i meant with out writing a whole 'nother half a page. dry kits dont add anymore fuel and a wet kit has an additional nozzle for fuel & can be tuned with your car computer to add more fuel to the mixture... close enough.
either way you can't just swap out the kit your dad has

Well you are wrong sir.

The Dry kit sprays nitrous before the MAF so the computer senses the higher percentage of Oxygen and compensates by adding more fuel via the computer to the injectors.

The wet kit takes a fuel line and with the "jets" in different sizes allows fuel to free flow in the "jets" increments with the nitrous after the MAF to add the extra horsepower.

So you are not close enough. You must not know much about Nitrous. If you don't, leave the thread alone. You can get hurt using it improperly.

 

[Swarzkopf]

kits dont add anymore fuel and a wet kit has an additional nozzle for fuel & can be tuned with your car computer to add more fuel to the mixture... close enough

Arghhhh....NO.

Dry kits add extra fuel using the fuel injectors. Again, they do add extra fuel.

Wet kits have nothing to with your cars computer.

Lsredy2kstang has the right idea, but most dry kits don't use the MAF function, they use the fuel pressure regulator....like my Zex kit.

I have to disagree with this. Any car can leave puddles of fuel or nitrous.

Please explain to me HOW my car can form puddles of fuel or nitrous in my intake manifold?

NO fuel flows through it....and when the nitrous is injected into the intake track it because gaseous right away.

Furthermore, IF (and it is impossible anyway so this is a moot point) nitrous COULD puddle in my intake it wouldn't do any harm, besides clogging it and possibly freezing it to the point of breaking. Nitrous will not ignite like gasoline.

If you have all the saftey stuff you will be better off. I have a RPM window switch, Fuel Pressure Saftey Switch and an electronic Throttle position sensor all for saftey. If the moons are not aligned correctly, it will not activeate. They all have to be within certain parameters.

Good advice.

You must not know much about Nitrous. If you don't, leave the thread alone. You can get hurt using it improperly.

Great advice. Installing and using nitrous improperly is a good way to destroy your motor.

 

[OxMox]

Well you are wrong sir.

The Dry kit sprays nitrous before the MAF so the computer senses the higher percentage of Oxygen and compensates by adding more fuel via the computer to the injectors.

The wet kit takes a fuel line and with the "jets" in different sizes allows fuel to free flow in the "jets" increments with the nitrous after the MAF to add the extra horsepower.

So you are not close enough. You must not know much about Nitrous. If you don't, leave the thread alone. You can get hurt using it improperly.

I always thought that dry kits go after the MAF and add no additional fuel unless your car gets tuned to?

and for the wet kits, I thought there are two seperate jets, one for the nitrous and one for the additional fuel

 

[Swarzkopf]

I always thought that dry kits go after the MAF and add no additional fuel unless your car gets tuned to?

No. Dry kits do exactly what I've posted twice now.

 

[Lsredy2kstang]

Dry goes before the MAF. Wet with two nozzles.

Here:

www.nitrousexpress.com
http://www.holley.com/categories.asp?division=NOS

 

[Lsredy2kstang]

Please explain to me HOW my car can form puddles of fuel or nitrous in my intake manifold?

NO fuel flows through it....and when the nitrous is injected into the intake track it because gaseous right away.


Great advice. Installing and using nitrous improperly is a good way to destroy your motor.

A buddy of mine had the NOS brand Dry kit on his Cobra, blew the intake off when it activated while the car was at idle.

lets say the car is off, you accidentally hit the activation button or however you have it hooked up. With a dry kit nothing really happens.

With a wet kit if the car is off but the electronics are on, being listening to the radio the car is in the on/auxillary position and activates you are putting fuel/nitrous into the upper intake thus causing pooling.

You would need to pull the plugs and then let the fuel/nitrous get out of the cylinders. I had a problem when I first installed the system and had the solenoid on backwards (dumbarse) and was just feeding fuel into the engine. Talk about running rich!

I know about nitrous, i would not put it on my car if I did not know what I am talking about. That is why I have spent another 400 bucks for the saftey equipment. You can put Nitrous on your car off ebay for 400 bucks that would not be safe at all. HOpe this helps.

 

[Swarzkopf]

I've been running a 125 shot for over a year now on my own Mustang and have installed nitrous systems on other cars...I think I know a thing or two about nitrous applications.

Dry goes before the MAF. Wet with two nozzles.

Most dry kits do NOT inject nitrous before the MAF! Many kits advise you NOT to do this as the cold nitrous can freeze the MAF wire and cause a false reading.

As I've posted three times in this thread already, my own Zex dry kit injects nitrous right before the throttle body. The extra fuel is provided by adjusting vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator. This is the MOST COMMON type of dry kit and is the way the Edelbrock, NOS, and Nitrous Express Mustang 87-98 dry kits work. This only works with return style fuel systems, and this is why it's harder to put a nitrous system on a 99+ GT Mustang with a stock fuel system...the returnless fuel system has no regulator for the nitrous system to tap into.

lets say the car is off, you accidentally hit the activation button or however you have it hooked up. With a dry kit nothing really happens.

At the very least you should have a WOT throttle switch and a manual arming swtich. Both would have to be engaged for nitrous to flow. If you are stupid enough to have an open bottle, an armed swich, the ignition turned on, and the pedal to the floor, nitrous will inject into your intake track. You would have to at least take off the intake tube to get the nitrous out, at the worst you'd have to pull each plug and crank the engine.

Nitrous at startup can lead to extreme detonation.

With a wet kit if the car is off but the electronics are on, being listening to the radio the car is in the on/auxillary position and activates you are putting fuel/nitrous into the upper intake thus causing pooling.

Fuel pooles, nitrous does NOT. Nitrous becomes gaseous the moment it is released from the pressurized lines! Nitrous is only in liquid form when it's under extreme pressure. Try it yourself; have a friend hold the nitrous jet while you spray and watch it all turn into a fine white mist and then evaporate.

If the scenario you described were to happen, you would go through the same steps as above to make sure no nitrous gets into your chambers before ignition. The fuel should evaporate on its own, given enough time.

 

[Lsredy2kstang]

I would have assumed that he was talking about the 99+ cars not a Pre 99 with the return style fuel system and a fuel pressure reg. That is my bad to maybe hae thunk that?

You can pool fuel/nitrous was what i stated.