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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

noszle kit install help

  • Thread starter Thread starter flames201
  • Start date Start date Nov 1, 2005

flames201

New Member
Dec 23, 2004
77
0
0
st. amant, la
Nov 1, 2005
#1
  • Nov 1, 2005
  • #1
i am puting this kit on an 04 gt. are there any secrets or shortcuts i should know about? any tricks not mentioned in the directions? just trying to get a headstart on the problemsolving! any input is appreciated!
 

Venom_Nitrous

Founding Member
Aug 23, 2002
416
1
0
Spearfish, SD
Nov 1, 2005
#2
  • Nov 1, 2005
  • #2
Follow instructions. That being said, here are some thingas I have done to mine to make it functional 100%:
1) Use good quality liquid teflon on all NPT fittings. Especially the ones on the distribution block.
2) To tighten the fittings on the distribution block, get a line wrench. I had to grind mine down on the sides so it would fit between the fittings. You will see what I mean.
3) The electronic WOT switch is crap. I finally got rid of mine and got a manual switch for it. They Have a custom bracket for a 4.6 mustang. Call and ask. It was $30 tho.
4) Be sure to lube the o-rings well before putting them in. Mine were of poor quality and cracked. They were just a bit too big. I went to ace and bought new ones that fit better.
5) The fittings on the lines that connect to the dist. bloch should be snug, not tight. Use your own judgement.
6) Get the Gen X2 kit from NX to reap the full benefits of the kit. You spent this much, now finish it.
7) Threadlock the screws that hold the solinoids onto the bracket. They jiggle out.
8) Passenger side rear is a tight fit. Make sure the line isn't touching the engine or it will turn the nitrous into a gas before it hits the engine (liquid nitrous = good)
9) Be very careful when threading the FPSS into the fuel rail, if you slip, it will breat the threaded part of the fuel rail. Then you will ahve to buy new ones. (experience)
10) Egr will be hard to hook up after the spacer install, don't strip the threads in the plenum. This was the hardest part of the install for me. I did strip the threads in mine, I stopped the leak with some RTV tho.

If I think of more I will post them.
 

Venom_Nitrous

Founding Member
Aug 23, 2002
416
1
0
Spearfish, SD
Nov 1, 2005
#3
  • Nov 1, 2005
  • #3
Oh yeah, the 125 shot jets gave me exactly a 90 hp increase and about 100 ft lbs.
 

flames201

New Member
Dec 23, 2004
77
0
0
st. amant, la
Nov 22, 2005
#4
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #4
how many runs are you getting with the 10lb bottle? just curious. did you have a bottle warmer, and what psi were u at when you had the 90hp increase? did u get a dyno tune? i have the kit installed and i'm going to the dyno this saturday.
can't wait to see the results ,i'll post them sat. and thanks for the info it was very helpful!
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
4,749
95
134
Nov 23, 2005
#5
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #5
Venom_Nitrous said:
Follow instructions. That being said, here are some thingas I have done to mine to make it functional 100%:
1) Use good quality liquid teflon on all NPT fittings. Especially the ones on the distribution block.
2) To tighten the fittings on the distribution block, get a line wrench. I had to grind mine down on the sides so it would fit between the fittings. You will see what I mean.
3) The electronic WOT switch is crap. I finally got rid of mine and got a manual switch for it. They Have a custom bracket for a 4.6 mustang. Call and ask. It was $30 tho.
4) Be sure to lube the o-rings well before putting them in. Mine were of poor quality and cracked. They were just a bit too big. I went to ace and bought new ones that fit better.
5) The fittings on the lines that connect to the dist. bloch should be snug, not tight. Use your own judgement.
6) Get the Gen X2 kit from NX to reap the full benefits of the kit. You spent this much, now finish it.
7) Threadlock the screws that hold the solinoids onto the bracket. They jiggle out.
8) Passenger side rear is a tight fit. Make sure the line isn't touching the engine or it will turn the nitrous into a gas before it hits the engine (liquid nitrous = good)
9) Be very careful when threading the FPSS into the fuel rail, if you slip, it will breat the threaded part of the fuel rail. Then you will ahve to buy new ones. (experience)
10) Egr will be hard to hook up after the spacer install, don't strip the threads in the plenum. This was the hardest part of the install for me. I did strip the threads in mine, I stopped the leak with some RTV tho.

If I think of more I will post them.
Click to expand...

That's good stuff
 

Venom_Nitrous

Founding Member
Aug 23, 2002
416
1
0
Spearfish, SD
Nov 23, 2005
#6
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #6
flames201 said:
how many runs are you getting with the 10lb bottle? just curious. did you have a bottle warmer, and what psi were u at when you had the 90hp increase? did u get a dyno tune? i have the kit installed and i'm going to the dyno this saturday.
can't wait to see the results ,i'll post them sat. and thanks for the info it was very helpful!
Click to expand...
I only mess with it on the street and have only done 3 1/8 mile passes. I would say 8-9 runs in the 1/4 would be about right. I have a pressure transducer bottle warmer that I found out wasn't working when I got to the dyno. It was at 850-870 psi. I get 1050psi now so I would guess it is 10 or so hp more. I have a dyno tune with a delta flip chip.
Expect this:
http://media.putfile.com/DynoNOS
 

flames201

New Member
Dec 23, 2004
77
0
0
st. amant, la
Nov 26, 2005
#7
  • Nov 26, 2005
  • #7
the #'s came in a little low due to 850psi bottle pressure but anyways:
325rwhp/397rwtq i hoped for a few more but i lost a lot on the n/a tune with the colder plugs and retarded timing. at least that's what i was told!
my tune previously was at 286/355 n/a now today the n/a was 224/308 seems to be off a bit?! the car is very quick on the street though
 

SliverStang

Member
May 25, 2003
270
0
16
Pineville, LA
Nov 26, 2005
#8
  • Nov 26, 2005
  • #8
also just take your time!
 

98blackmagic

New Member
Jun 2, 2005
386
0
0
wouldnt you like to know
Nov 26, 2005
#9
  • Nov 26, 2005
  • #9
Venom_Nitrous said:
I only mess with it on the street and have only done 3 1/8 mile passes. I would say 8-9 runs in the 1/4 would be about right. I have a pressure transducer bottle warmer that I found out wasn't working when I got to the dyno. It was at 850-870 psi. I get 1050psi now so I would guess it is 10 or so hp more. I have a dyno tune with a delta flip chip.
Expect this:
http://media.putfile.com/DynoNOS
Click to expand...

what was your time on the 1/8 mile runs on nos?
 

BullittStangV8

Founding Member
Oct 5, 2002
1,104
0
36
NJ
Nov 26, 2005
#10
  • Nov 26, 2005
  • #10
Those N/A dyno numbers are waaayyy to different. Were you on the same type of dyno? Is that car noticably sluggish when N/A as compared to before? You should not loose 60 hp and 50 trq from a change in plugs. Was one Flywheel vs rw? Your Nitrous numbers vs your second set of NA numbers seems close.
 

blackink00

I missed a shift & stole Curt's money.
Mar 30, 2005
545
0
0
Tempe, AZ
Nov 26, 2005
#11
  • Nov 26, 2005
  • #11
thats too much of a diffeerence
 

Venom_Nitrous

Founding Member
Aug 23, 2002
416
1
0
Spearfish, SD
Nov 28, 2005
#12
  • Nov 28, 2005
  • #12
98blackmagic said:
what was your time on the 1/8 mile runs on nos?
Click to expand...
I think it was like 8.17 with a 2.10 60 ft. It was my first time ever to a track. Keep in mind this was at like 5000 elevation and was kinda humid.
 

BooWFO

New Member
May 10, 2005
991
0
0
Louisville, KY
Nov 28, 2005
#13
  • Nov 28, 2005
  • #13
The NA numbers look like mine and the Nitrous # too. I dynoed at 224 na and 348 on a Nx 100 shot.
I played around with my plug gap to get some of my NA pep back. I average 10 1/8 mile runs out of a 10lb bottle with pressure normally at 950-1050.
Another thing I always carry a multimeter, teflon paste, and line wrenchs wiht me now.
 
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