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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Official wire hiding thread?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Boss 351
  • Start date Start date Oct 24, 2006
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B

Boss 351

Here sthhhhhhhheeeve take a picthh of my man flowe
Jul 13, 2003
2,433
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48
Canada
Oct 24, 2006
#1
  • Oct 24, 2006
  • #1
Well I did some searching but didn't find too many things (okay I admit, I didn't go deaper than 4 pages)...

Anyway I have both my fenders off (and interior is also gutted) and I'm starting to hide the engine bay wires.

The solenoid will be in the trunk with the battery (battery already in the trunk - using 1ga. wire). I plan on using a smaller 4ga wire to run some current to the front and plug the wires that used to be on the solenoid. I'll either seperate those wires from the harness and use a splitter box inside the cab or just put the splitter box inside the fender (will also supply a 4ga line to the 3G alternator on the other side from the splitter). The reason for not putting the solenoid in the fender is for easy access without it getting wet. Unless I come up with something like a plastic box so I can just leave it under the horns or something? The splitter box I want to use is normally used for those with big amps so it will provide me with a safe way to split the current.

I will hide the carbon canister inside the fender somewhere.

I'm deleting the washer fluid system

I'll be moving the brake lines under the lip to hide them.

The small plastic vacuum lines will be moved inside the cowl most likely (I'll add a sheet metal box like thing so I can run wires and vacuum lines in there neatly).

The body harness that runs on the driver side will be inside the fender, MAF harness on the other side will also be inside the fender. The main harness that runs on the firewill will either go inside the cab (I have everything removed, so it won't be to hard to do) or in the cowl. Also the HUGE harness coming from the inside on the driver side will be re-routed to inside the fender as well. The EEC diagnoses plug will be cleaned up and left neatly next to the master cylinder or rerouted inside the cab.

I don't have the smog pump anymore, there is no AC on this car from factory.

Salt and pepper connectors will be hidden behind the intake so they won't be seen as much.

The only thing that's bugging me is the Barometric sensor on the firewall, I don't know if I can relocate it? If not I will just dress it up with the chrome bracket I guess... I'll also move the big plastic vacuum splitter thing somewhere so it won't be as visible, maybe just lower it or something, not 100% sure on that one.

Anyway a LOT of things will be moved so I'm doing this slowly so I won't end up with thousands of electrical problems down the road. The wires will be covered and properly secured. All wires going through sheet metal will be protected with grommets to prevent any chance of a fire lol.

Of course I will weld in all the stupid little holes in the engine bay and box the lower frame rails... Everything will be smoothed out, painted and clear coated. I have a tubular k-member that I will install once I change the engine this winter too. I "might" do some airbrush inside the engine bay like ghost flames or something neat like that...

My goal is for an EFI engine bay that's cleaner than most carb'ed cars

See sig link for story and pics...
 
B

Boss 351

Here sthhhhhhhheeeve take a picthh of my man flowe
Jul 13, 2003
2,433
23
48
Canada
Oct 25, 2006
#2
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #2
Well I bought a neat plastic box to put the solenoid in (electrician store) so the solenoid will be in the inner fender.

I removed the main body harness from the hole (near the master cylinder) and I'm going to run it in the inner fender. That alone took me about 3 hours and my dash is out of the car too! Most people will just keep the harness there and move it to the right because there's a hole in the inner fender wall. I don't want to see ANY wires so I did it the hard way.

I'm going to take pics and do a real write up on this, since I'm doing it the hard way.
 

notch22

Member
Aug 24, 2004
22
0
17
Katy, TX
Oct 25, 2006
#3
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #3
Sounds good. I will be looking into this also.
 

stang22

Active Member
Jan 29, 2003
1,318
7
38
Washington, D.C.
Oct 26, 2006
#4
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #4
I put my BAP inside of the passengers side fenders, next to the door. Paul (ALMOST STOCK) did the same thing.

Tim
 
B

Boss 351

Here sthhhhhhhheeeve take a picthh of my man flowe
Jul 13, 2003
2,433
23
48
Canada
Oct 26, 2006
#5
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #5
I put the BAP sensor inside the fender last night My write up is like 4 pages long and I'm only 40% done lol I talk too much
 
D

Daggar

New Member
Jul 19, 2004
3,902
5
0
Oct 26, 2006
#6
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #6
Let's get some pics for this thread too!

Whatever anyone has along these lines would be great!

If this thread starts to take shape, I'll be sure to ad it to the index at the top of this forum.
 
B

Boss 351

Here sthhhhhhhheeeve take a picthh of my man flowe
Jul 13, 2003
2,433
23
48
Canada
Oct 26, 2006
#7
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #7
I have pics, plenty of pics... here is a teaser lol



 

ChromdOutDubs

Member
Sep 1, 2005
268
1
18
Tavares, Florida
Oct 26, 2006
#8
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #8
Here are my pictures of my wire hinding. I ran all those main wires into the inner fender. Then the loom of wires that run right by the top radiator suppose, i hid them inside that channel of metal, i cut them in half ran each side of the wire from each side, pulled them through a hole and resoldered them, now you cant see them at all..... If that made any sense. Here are the pics



-AJ
 

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ALMOST STOCK

Founding Member
Sep 23, 2000
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Oct 26, 2006
#9
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #9
Boss 351 said:
I have pics, plenty of pics... here is a teaser lol

Click to expand...

Steve
I see where you're going and it looks good so far, keep up the good work, and I’m really looking forward to seeing the final product.

Curiosity have you given it any thought about running the brake lines in a different location other than under the pinch weld since your talking about eliminating everything else that was on the firewall?
It’s reasonably easy to do and sure cleans up your firewall is the reason I ask.
 

ALMOST STOCK

Founding Member
Sep 23, 2000
1,250
41
88
CA.
Oct 26, 2006
#10
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #10
ChromdOutDubs .

If only I had taken a few pics when I hid my wires 6 yrs ago
 
D

Deleted member 87397

Oct 26, 2006
#11
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #11
So where exactly does the main harness along the back of the firewall get hidden? Do you have to extend any of the sensor wires to account for the different harness positions?
 

ChromdOutDubs

Member
Sep 1, 2005
268
1
18
Tavares, Florida
Oct 26, 2006
#12
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #12
fastfox86 said:
So where exactly does the main harness along the back of the firewall get hidden? Do you have to extend any of the sensor wires to account for the different harness positions?
Click to expand...

In the trash can.... CARB FTW!!!! lol

-AJ
 

ALMOST STOCK

Founding Member
Sep 23, 2000
1,250
41
88
CA.
Oct 26, 2006
#13
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #13
So where exactly does the main harness along the back of the firewall get hidden?
Click to expand...

Inside… under the dash.

Do you have to extend any of the sensor wires to account for the different harness positions?
Click to expand...

In my case the only wires I extended were; 2 wires to the A/C compressor, 2 wires to the overflow bottle, and the 6 wires that went to Tab, Tad and EGR sensors. Other than that I never cut or extended another wire in the whole process.
 
D

Deleted member 87397

Oct 26, 2006
#14
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #14
Nice. Well I don't have a/c anymore or a low coolant sensor, so it should be even easier.
 
B

Boss 351

Here sthhhhhhhheeeve take a picthh of my man flowe
Jul 13, 2003
2,433
23
48
Canada
Oct 27, 2006
#15
  • Oct 27, 2006
  • #15
ALMOST STOCK said:
Steve
I see where you're going and it looks good so far, keep up the good work, and I’m really looking forward to seeing the final product.

Curiosity have you given it any thought about running the brake lines in a different location other than under the pinch weld since your talking about eliminating everything else that was on the firewall?
It’s reasonably easy to do and sure cleans up your firewall is the reason I ask.
Click to expand...

Yes, that will be the next step once the engine is out and the new k-member is in. I'm not sure where I'd run the new lines though? I'm guessing the transmission tunnel would be the best spot (right below the firewall.

I'm trying to think of a way to run the speedometer cable somewhere else too lol I was thinking maybe if I can curve it down behind the dash, follow the rocker panel a little and have it run through the tranny tunnel right into it's location onto the transmission. It would also prevent it from getting burned if I ever go with long tube headers (if that is a problem?) But mostly to get rid of the piece from the engine bay.
 
B

Boss 351

Here sthhhhhhhheeeve take a picthh of my man flowe
Jul 13, 2003
2,433
23
48
Canada
Oct 27, 2006
#16
  • Oct 27, 2006
  • #16
ALMOST STOCK said:
Inside… under the dash.



In my case the only wires I extended were; 2 wires to the A/C compressor, 2 wires to the overflow bottle, and the 6 wires that went to Tab, Tad and EGR sensors. Other than that I never cut or extended another wire in the whole process.
Click to expand...

Right now I'm a little blocked on the lower engine harness (O2 sensors and low oil sender)... You must have reversed the position to have the harness follow behind the engine instead of in front?

I also relocated the EEC test plug under my dash so it will be easier for me to plug my scantool lol

Oh and the BAP sensor needed longer wires for me. For anyone extending the wires, PLEASE use the proper method; solder the wires and use heat shrinking wrap to cover them. Here's a good link to how to solder wires... I'm lucky I worked in a telecom company so I learnt all that stuff while talking to the production employees. http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/how_to/solder/index.html
 

stang22

Active Member
Jan 29, 2003
1,318
7
38
Washington, D.C.
Oct 27, 2006
#17
  • Oct 27, 2006
  • #17
Boss 351 said:
I'm not sure where I'd run the new lines though? I'm guessing the transmission tunnel would be the best spot (right below the firewall.
Click to expand...

What K-member are you installing? I am sure you could run them through the new K-member, that is probably your best bet in order to get them out of the way.

Tim
 
B

Boss 351

Here sthhhhhhhheeeve take a picthh of my man flowe
Jul 13, 2003
2,433
23
48
Canada
Oct 27, 2006
#18
  • Oct 27, 2006
  • #18
D&D Motorsports. I guess I could run them there, would take less tubing.
 

stang22

Active Member
Jan 29, 2003
1,318
7
38
Washington, D.C.
Oct 27, 2006
#19
  • Oct 27, 2006
  • #19
Yep, you could secure them very well with clamps also. They are not that hard to contour to your k-member.

Tim
 
B

Boss 351

Here sthhhhhhhheeeve take a picthh of my man flowe
Jul 13, 2003
2,433
23
48
Canada
Oct 27, 2006
#20
  • Oct 27, 2006
  • #20
Thanks for the tip, I just printed what I made so far and my document is 9 pages long LOL I may end up with a 20 page article on wire hiding
 
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