Oh Crap~!!!!!!!!!

[Guero]

Ok well i changed my oil, to see if did the noise and it stoped, well i took it for a ride, punched it and it just turned of. wont start just cranks

 

[1TallMF]

crap... better read the codes and see what comes up and let us know

 

[The Green GT]

That sucks man. Hope you get everything figured out.

 

[Guero]

no codes

 

[Zero Signal]

At least it cranks. It's probably electronic. I think a good Guero question would be . . . do you have gas in the tank

 

[SeventyMach1]

Is it getting fuel? Spark?


I remember you just installing a fuel pump. Does it prime when you turn the key to "ON"?

 

[Guero]

ok, i took of mine of my wires of the plug, put a screwdriver in it, and touched a negative while cranking. and no spark was is sparking, so im thinkging im not sparking. why is that?

 

[Guero]

the fuel pump turns on. but i get no spark

 

[Guero]

At least it cranks. It's probably electronic. I think a good Guero question would be . . . do you have gas in the tank

let me check!!! you basterd!!!!!

 

[1TallMF]

Might have blown the TFI module or the stator in the distributor. Start by checking if there is 12V at the coil primary and work your way back. Gotta hate these kinds of problems...

 

[Guero]

the coil wire goes up to 12 volts when its connected to the coil

 

[Guero]

whats the tfi module??

 

[Guero]

if it cranks my heads and pistons are fine right????????

 

[Guero]

any one im panaking!!!!!

 

[SeventyMach1]

whats the tfi module??

1st off .... take a deep breath & calm down, lol. Just be patient and you'll eventually find the culprit. The TFI (thick film ignition) module is what controls your spark output by sending information to your computer. It is very important.


Anyway, there are literally hundreds of things that could be wrong here. Again, don't panic. There are ways to diagnose this. I'll go ahead and post a quote from "jrichker" that may help you out. First, you NEED to determine for SURE if you are getting spark and fuel or not. You do not have to use the exact methods that he did ... but to keep me from typing all night .... this will get you started.

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD or Crane ignition box if so equipped
B.)Coil
C.) TFI module
D.) PIP sensor in distributor
E.) ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
F.) Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire.
H.) Computer

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t, then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have.

No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.

A.) A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring.
B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.

a.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
b.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
c.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.


4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.

A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off: only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

 

[Guero]

the way i check for sparked i got no spark. so i would i determine which ones which?
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD or Crane ignition box if so equipped
B.)Coil
C.) TFI module
D.) PIP sensor in distributor
E.) ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
F.) Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire.
H.) Computer

 

[HISSIN50]

John, I hate to say that this was my first thought too. (no offense Guero - you crack us up).

The coil gets 12 volts constantly. The ground to it is pulsed via the TFI.

You really need to reliably check for spark. It would suck to think you dont have spark when you simply had too large of an air gap in your testing-method. An old spark plug, set on the upper plenum (so the threads are grounded) works well.

If you have a noid light, look for injector pulsing.

There are so many things it could be - any more info you can post will help.

Good luck.

 

[Guero]

i really dont know what to say. so the engine is good just the electrical?

 

[Guero]

John, I hate to say that this was my first thought too. (no offense Guero - you crack us up).

.

its all good, i just can never write what im thinking and it comes out all messed up. like if im dumb lol

 

[SeventyMach1]

I agree that you should test REALLY WELL whether or not you have spark. (Not saying you didn't .... but I'm still not quite sure on the method you used)

(Adding to what JT said)

Use an old spark plug. Get a friend to do the cranking for you. Pull a plug wire and put the spare plug in it. Touch it to a ground (such as the upper intake plenum). Signal to your friend to crank. Be sure you have the plug GROUNDED when your friend cranks and that your holding the wire a little ways up, or else you may feel a nice jolt, lol (I wear a thick leather glove just in case). When (or if) you see spark, replace wire and move on to the next one. Check all eight. Let us know if you have spark.



BTW, make sure he puts the car in neutral, lol.