Oil Change
- Thread starter 19simmons65
- Start date
Route666
Active Member
Is your engine a fresh rebuild? If you rebuit the motor to modern tolerances I would say yes to that oil, but if it's a well worn-in engine, it is way too thin. Something around 20W-50 should be close to what you need in this case.
Have you replaced the filter? If you haven't put the new one on yet, I suggest putting oil in it before putting it back on, you can put a fair bit in there and it soaks it all up. It helps build pressure quicker for initial restart.
Have you replaced the filter? If you haven't put the new one on yet, I suggest putting oil in it before putting it back on, you can put a fair bit in there and it soaks it all up. It helps build pressure quicker for initial restart.
iskwezm
10 Year Member
2nd Mustang
Founding Member
I use Castrol 20/50 and either a Mobil One or K&N oil filter. Those filters are expensive, but my own unscientific nose sniffing test tells me they filter the oil better. After 5 months, the oil still doesn't smell burnt, unlike other filters I have tried.
2nd Mustang
Founding Member
19simmons65 said:
I just use the Castrol GTX in my 67 and my son's 2002, although the 2002 uses 5w-20w. Even my newer 2003 Toyota pickup uses regular oil from the dealer (extended warranty servicing) every 5 month or 5000 miles.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
Since we'll be into winter soon here in CA, I would say use a petroleum 10w-30 or 15w-40. IMO synthetic is a waste of money. I dont even bother using it in my aircooled 4-stoke dirt bike, especially not in winter.
Route666
Active Member
67GTA-FB429 said:
That's a good idea, however when I've thought of that however I've thought about not having enough oil pressure if too thin or too thick, would that happen?
2nd Mustang
Founding Member
I tried switching from regular oil to synthetic in a high mileage vehicle once. There were no external oil leaks until after I switched. Yes, the car ran better, but the synthetic was so slippery it created leaks past old seals. Switching back didn't help, once the leaks started, it wouldn't stop even when switching back to regular oil.
I have made a lot of phone calls and asked a lot of questions about Synethic oil vs petrolum based oil. I work @ an electrical power plant where reliability is a big concern. Especially when it costs hundreds of thousands of dollars to repair the equipment. Most of our bearings here are made of the same material as in our cars. I have also experienced major bearing failures. This is what I have found out. Synethic oil DOES provide SUPERIOR protection over petrolum based oil. The reason that you will delelop oil leaks on a older engine is because the seals will crack and deteroiate over time. Since the petrolum oil does not clean as well as synethic the cracks stay plugged w/ sludge (As minor as it may be). The synethic oil will clean the inside of you engine so well that it will expose the minor cracks ect and thus you will experience leaks. The only way to stop them is to either replace the leaking parts or let the enging sludge up enough to fill the cracks again. Run the same weight oil as you normally would. After I rebuild my motor and sink all of my hard earned money into it I want it to last a long time so I will run nothing but 100% synethic oil.Especally on very cold or Very hot days.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
Wait a minute, more information is needed before a sweeping statement like that is made. What type of bearings are they? Roller or babbitt friction? What sizes? What kind of applications? What kind of conditions? I in no way intend to sound argumentative, I just want to more accurately know how the two can be compared.
We have Babbit bearings,roller bearings & ball bearings just to name a few. All sizes from .5" to 36"diameter. Engines, Basic internal combustion, Jet engines and steam turbines. Water pumps of all applications. Basic principal still applies is to reduce friction to protect the bearing. The reason for leaking seals when changing to synethic oil is still true. But I have gone way out in left for the original question which the answer is 5 quarts is required but take some oil from one of the quarts and fill the oil filter first.
Route666 said:
I honestly do not know.
I think too thick will be a problem long before too thin...in terms of oil pressure. In terms of leaks, just the opposite.
I do know that my 67 used to leak with 20-50 (conventional) but now that I have switched to 10-30 (synthetic) it has stopped leaking.
All I can really suggest is do more reading...check the Mobil One website, or the Syntec website.
Yes, synthetics do cost more, but IMO, the positive outweight the negatives.
Now if we could just come up with synthetic gasoline!!!
68 Coop
New Member
I would go with a Napa Gold filter, 10w40 in summer, 10w30 in winter. Synthetics will leak, but it's usually shot gaskets or seats needing replaced anyway, so it will tell you which ones are bad.
LMan
Founding Member
Steve69 said:
I do......when I lube parts during engine assembly
oh, and also in my push mower.
..but seriously folks....other than in limited-application racing situations, why would anyone run straight-weight?
