Oil Change

Okay, here's the FRAM one ....



It looks pretty small .... but I don't know if it will hurt anything or not.


BTW, the one I had (not entirely sure what brand, but I think it was a FRAM, too) had a valve. It could only be drained once the little hose was attached. I liked that ..... but I was just worried that some exterior debris might get in there if the cap somehow screwed off while driving. I guess I'm paranoid, lol ... because I don't really see a way it can do that, but it's just the thought.

HAHA This one's right up my alley..Im a lube tech at Jiffy lube..Heres what ya do. Go buy the type of oil and filter the manufacturer recommends for your car which should be 5-20..If you're concerned about the mileage go up to a 10-30 or a high mileage 10-30 which will break down better for your motor. Get 4 Jackstand's, an oil drain-pan, and a floorjack. Put your vehicle in neutral or park, apply the parking brake and begin to jack your vehicle one corner at a time, sliding a locked jackstand uunder each side and continue until you have the entire car elevated and all the jackstands set to the same level. Pop your hood lack and open your hood. Start by checking the oil level and color..A darker color may suggest you might need a good engine flush or "Sea Foam" if you ask someone else..Anyhow you want to note the level and color of your oil before you drain it so that if you might have internal engine problems this could possibly help with a diagnosis?? Support the vehicle evenly on all four stands..I believe all of our cars have double sump oil pans so you have to remove both Oil Plugs and drain from both holes..Drain them both, one at a time starting with the one closest to the rear first..When the oil pan holes have drained completely, screw them back in and tighten them down, being careful not to strip your screw or oil pan screw hole..Then go ahead and loosen your oil filter and allow for the oil to drain as much as possible with it just loosened, then pull it all the way off and discard..Oil the gasket on the new filter and Install it. Hand tighten until substantial resistance is attained..Then One good half of a turn and stop..Now, If your car takes 5 and 1/2 quarts of oil with the filter included..Add 5 quarts and check the level.. It should be a little over the striation marks on your dipstick or right at a perfect level. Replace the oil cap. At this time go ahead and start your car, Allow to idle 10-15 seconds so the oil can cycle through your filter and make sure your oil pressure goes up..Then turn it off and check your drain plugs and oil filter for possible leaks..Then check the oil level on your dipstick again..It may be slightly low at this time because some of the oil is now in your filter. If you need to add another half quart or so, do it and then check the level again until its at the top of the striation marks. Once its filled to the right level you can get the stuff from under your car and start lowering your vehicle..You have just changed your oil.

Kris

Justin, my bad. In my haste, I thought you meant one of those kits that sucks the oil out through the top. This is just a quick drain valve, right? In regard to my earlier concerns, forget them (I was thinking about the wrong product).
Carry on!

HISSIN50 said:

Do you feel that the kit allowed all the oil and sludge on the very bottom of the pan a chance to come out? I kinda wondered about that.

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Even on a regular change, short of dropping the sump and cleaning it manually, the best way to tackle sludge, etc is to use pre-change flush/devarnishing additives so it all gets bound up in the filter, with repeated uses you can usually get everything nice and clean.

Monsterbishi said:

Even on a regular change, short of dropping the sump and cleaning it manually, the best way to tackle sludge, etc is to use pre-change flush/devarnishing additives so it all gets bound up in the filter, with repeated uses you can usually get everything nice and clean.

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You mean something like Auto Rx? Sounds like it.


That quote [of mine] pertained to when I thought he was discussing pumping the oil out of the crankcase via the dipstick tube (where a more-than-normal amount would remain in the bottom of the sump).