Oil pan gasket

L

loudexhaust

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May 13, 2006

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Jul 7, 2006

#1

• Jul 7, 2006

• #1

Im going to replace my gasket and from what i understand ill need to pull out the engine bolts and jack the motor up a few inches. But, i have a few questions.
Where should i place the jack on the motor?
Should i use a one piece or mulit piece gasket?
Should I put some type of sealant on the gasket?

 

L

loudexhaust

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May 13, 2006

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Jul 8, 2006

#2

• Jul 8, 2006

• #2

bump

 

TheBocSez

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Feb 3, 2004

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Converse, TX

Jul 8, 2006

#3

• Jul 8, 2006

• #3

Not sure where a good place to put the Jack would be. Maybe the harmonic balancer or the shield are around the torque converter or flywheel. I would definately put a piece of wood between the jack and engine to act as a sort of cushion and to more widely distribute the weight.

I would use a one piece gasket, you will have to snake it around the main caps and oil pump pick up but it can be done.

No need for sealant with a 1pc gasket, just clean the surface as best you can with some acetone on a rag or something like that. Try to limit how much of the old gasket falls into the pan and dont over torque the bolts.

Here is a link about the same thing and instruction. Check it out.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=641703&highlight=oil+pan+gasket

 

L

loudexhaust

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May 13, 2006

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Jul 8, 2006

#4

• Jul 8, 2006

• #4

Do you think it is necessary to loosen the tranny?
And what should i torque the engine mounts and oil pan to?

 

TheBocSez

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Feb 3, 2004

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Converse, TX

Jul 8, 2006

#5

• Jul 8, 2006

• #5

loudexhaust said:

Do you think it is necessary to loosen the tranny?
And what should i torque the engine mounts and oil pan to?

Click to expand...

You will need to loosen the trans mount bolts so that it can raise with the engine. I dont think it will be necessary to loosen if from the engine itself though.

I know the pan bolts were 10-12 ft lbs. and I used a little blue loc tite on em.

Chilton says the motor mount specs are:

35-50 ft lbs for Mount to Frame
30-42 ft lbs for Mount to Block.

Also use the proper torque sequence on the pan. I think it starts in the center and works its way out in a staggered fashion like the intake bolts do. but Im not 100% on that.

 

L

loudexhaust

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May 13, 2006

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Jul 8, 2006

#6

• Jul 8, 2006

• #6

Thanks a lot

 

L

loudexhaust

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Jul 9, 2006

#7

• Jul 9, 2006

• #7

Well after many hours I didn't finish. The pan will not come out. The motor is pulled out so high, tranny is loose, and the oil pump has been loosened.

 

N

nathanks

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Feb 10, 2007

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Mar 5, 2007

#8

• Mar 5, 2007

• #8

I replaced my oil pan gasket this past weekend using this method, and I must say for anyone reading this and thinking about doing it... have patience!! It is a long procedure and it takes ALOT of time! It will take the better part of a whole day if you are working alone.

I used the one piece Felpro rubber gasket and snaked it around the oil pump pickup as outlined above. It takes some time to get it in right.

Also, if you have an auto don't even mess with the blue clips that come with the gasket set for the rear holes. Unless you do something with the tranny lines the pan will not go straight up as the clips want it to. I didn't notice when I was doing this and broke those stupid clips off in the block. They were fairly easy to get out with a flathead, but still it was just wasted time.