Oil pan question. Timing cover not flush

kickascii · Jul 24, 2006

Yep, I went to put my oil pan on yesterday and the timing cover (original 1985) does not make a flush fit with the block for the oil pan to seal. Normal or do I need a newer version timing cover since my rebuilt long block 302 is 87 and up?

Can I use silicone or is it just going to blow out?

WHY ME????

eagleautosports · Jul 24, 2006

Probably need to get a new timing cover. At least they're easy to find now. If you do the silicone thing, you're just asking for trouble. Do it right.

kickascii · Jul 24, 2006

Do you know if they made different covers? It's like a 1/16th of an inch... How about gaskets? Am I supposed to use a newer gasket that is thicker in that area?

Yeah, I too believe silicone is just going to be either blown out or sucked in...

eagleautosports · Jul 24, 2006

The standard gasket for '87-up should be plenty thick enough. A light coating of silicone would help and if you get another cover, some have a place for a fuel pump and dipstick so there are some differences.

kickascii · Jul 24, 2006

Mine from 85 has a mech fuel pump hole but I have it blocked off. It doesn't have a dipstick hole... I wonder if I need to get a newer style cover..

Anyone know if there is a difference between the two and what year gasket I should buy? the local shop has a rubber one-piece for $30 and he told me it was for 1988 and up... I just wanna run the GD car.

83Mustang427TT · Jul 24, 2006

get the rubber one... the covers are the same with the exception of the fuel pump block off on 87 and up covers and the dipstick hole on the older covers

kickascii · Jul 24, 2006

I did a visual and it is def about 1/16th of an inch lower (engine upside down on stand).

My old cover on my old engine matches perfectly. I don't understand why. The timeing cover is a replacement from Frod Racing and the longblock is brand new... Would pictures help?

kickascii · Jul 24, 2006

Anyone with any other ideas to offer. Tomorrow I'm gonna buy the gasket and put it on...

kickascii · Jul 25, 2006

I talked to my buddy that owns a local garage and 3 Mustangs (2 of them are supercharged). He said not to rely on RTV sealant for that big of a gap. Sure as *****, when the crankcase sees pressure from the boost, it'll blow it out.

So, I'm thinking about taking off the timing cover, sending it back to summit, and ordering a new one with the actual Ford Racing brand instead of Summit brand. I'm not sure why I bought the summit brand in the first place.

83Mustang427TT · Jul 25, 2006

Wait a second is it a stock oilpan or a moroso canton aftermarket type? If its aftermarket they say that it may not fit flush because of the welding on the pan you have to follow the torque sequence to pull it flush My moroso 351W swap pan was the same way even if it is stock it may have warped slightly you may wanna torque it down 1st then check the gap...Hope this helps

kickascii · Jul 26, 2006

83Mustang427TT said:
Wait a second is it a stock oilpan or a moroso canton aftermarket type? If its aftermarket they say that it may not fit flush because of the welding on the pan you have to follow the torque sequence to pull it flush My moroso 351W swap pan was the same way even if it is stock it may have warped slightly you may wanna torque it down 1st then check the gap...Hope this helps

No, it's a Stef's oil pan and it doesn't seem to be the problem. The timing cover is not flush with the block on the bottom of the engine...

Good idea though.

kickascii · Aug 12, 2006

Ok, so here I am now looking at the problem in the face and feel like a dumbazz. You know the dowells that position the timing cover, well after looking at the old engine, the new timing covers do not come with the dowells. That explains the problem. Question: Do I need them or what?

If so, where do I get them? I tried to get the dowells out of the stock cover and they are not coming out...

I just wanna run my freakin' car!

ls1beater4eva · Aug 12, 2006

ok try some pb blast on them. i just did a swap from fuel injected to carb and am running a mech fuel pump the covers sit in the same place. but you should be able to soak the dowels down with some pb blast and use a pair of channel locks or something and twist them out.

kickascii · Aug 12, 2006

So you would not recommend installing the timing cover without the dowells?

Damn. I'll have to take it off now and get a new gasket... Oh, instead of buying a gasket, is it ok just to use black rv sealant?

Thanks!

ls1beater4eva · Aug 12, 2006

you can use rtv but i would get a new gasket as cheap as they are. i have used rtv when in a bind but dont recomend it.

kickascii · Aug 13, 2006

what about the dowels? are they completely necessary? AS you can see, my lazy ass ust wants to run the car...

EMW150 · Aug 14, 2006

Yes, you need the dowels. That's why it isn't sitting flush. Without the dowels,when you tighten it down it will move. Plug and dowel kit (ford dealer if you're in a hurry) Part # FMS-M6026A302

kickascii · Aug 15, 2006

EMW150 said:
Yes, you need the dowels. That's why it isn't sitting flush. Without the dowels,when you tighten it down it will move. Plug and dowel kit (ford dealer if you're in a hurry) Part # FMS-M6026A302

GD It. This will be my 3rd time taking a timing cover off.. Thank you and get your azz over here to put that summa-beetch on...

My stomach hurts!

kickascii · Aug 23, 2006

just wanted to thank everyone for helping.

EMW150 · Aug 23, 2006

kickascii said:
just wanted to thank everyone for helping.

Everything line up good this time?

Oil pan question. Timing cover not flush

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