Oil pan question. Timing cover not flush

kickascii

Founding Member
Apr 8, 2000
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Inwood,WV
Yep, I went to put my oil pan on yesterday and the timing cover (original 1985) does not make a flush fit with the block for the oil pan to seal. Normal or do I need a newer version timing cover since my rebuilt long block 302 is 87 and up?

Can I use silicone or is it just going to blow out?


WHY ME????
 
Do you know if they made different covers? It's like a 1/16th of an inch... How about gaskets? Am I supposed to use a newer gasket that is thicker in that area?

Yeah, I too believe silicone is just going to be either blown out or sucked in...
 
Mine from 85 has a mech fuel pump hole but I have it blocked off. It doesn't have a dipstick hole... I wonder if I need to get a newer style cover..

Anyone know if there is a difference between the two and what year gasket I should buy? the local shop has a rubber one-piece for $30 and he told me it was for 1988 and up... I just wanna run the GD car. :)
 
I did a visual and it is def about 1/16th of an inch lower (engine upside down on stand).

My old cover on my old engine matches perfectly. I don't understand why. The timeing cover is a replacement from Frod Racing and the longblock is brand new... Would pictures help?
 
I talked to my buddy that owns a local garage and 3 Mustangs (2 of them are supercharged). He said not to rely on RTV sealant for that big of a gap. Sure as *****, when the crankcase sees pressure from the boost, it'll blow it out.

So, I'm thinking about taking off the timing cover, sending it back to summit, and ordering a new one with the actual Ford Racing brand instead of Summit brand. I'm not sure why I bought the summit brand in the first place.
 
Wait a second is it a stock oilpan or a moroso canton aftermarket type? If its aftermarket they say that it may not fit flush because of the welding on the pan you have to follow the torque sequence to pull it flush My moroso 351W swap pan was the same way even if it is stock it may have warped slightly you may wanna torque it down 1st then check the gap...Hope this helps
 
83Mustang427TT said:
Wait a second is it a stock oilpan or a moroso canton aftermarket type? If its aftermarket they say that it may not fit flush because of the welding on the pan you have to follow the torque sequence to pull it flush My moroso 351W swap pan was the same way even if it is stock it may have warped slightly you may wanna torque it down 1st then check the gap...Hope this helps

No, it's a Stef's oil pan and it doesn't seem to be the problem. The timing cover is not flush with the block on the bottom of the engine...

Good idea though.
 
Ok, so here I am now looking at the problem in the face and feel like a dumbazz. You know the dowells that position the timing cover, well after looking at the old engine, the new timing covers do not come with the dowells. That explains the problem. Question: Do I need them or what?

If so, where do I get them? I tried to get the dowells out of the stock cover and they are not coming out...

I just wanna run my freakin' car! :)
 
ok try some pb blast on them. i just did a swap from fuel injected to carb and am running a mech fuel pump the covers sit in the same place. but you should be able to soak the dowels down with some pb blast and use a pair of channel locks or something and twist them out.
 
So you would not recommend installing the timing cover without the dowells?

Damn. I'll have to take it off now and get a new gasket... Oh, instead of buying a gasket, is it ok just to use black rv sealant?

Thanks!
 
EMW150 said:
Yes, you need the dowels. That's why it isn't sitting flush. Without the dowels,when you tighten it down it will move. Plug and dowel kit (ford dealer if you're in a hurry) Part # FMS-M6026A302

GD It. This will be my 3rd time taking a timing cover off.. Thank you and get your azz over here to put that summa-beetch on... :)

My stomach hurts! :)