Engine Oil Pressure Drops With Mech Gauge

Hey guys! I got my GT40p heads on and got the car started and everything. Everything seemed good till the test drive. That's when the oil pressure dropped from the usual 40-45 to 20-25. The car went from having power to none at all. Today I went out to look around it to start the car I have to pump the gas and hold the key for about 5-10 seconds before it catchs. Oil pressure is still at 20-25. I checked the oil and it does have oil. I added some just to the middle of min and max and the oil pressure went up to around 30 than dropped in a matter of minutes. The CEL did come on and I tested it and it gave me code 111 which is system okay.

I've been reading oil pump, pick up lines for the oil. But I have no idea and I don't wanna drop cash on stuff that won't fix it lol.

Any help would be greatly appreciated on were to go next with this dam car lol!
 
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At what rpm are you getting 20-25psi oil pressure? That's aok at idle, and I doubt it has anything to do with your power situation. It's normal for it to drop with RPM and as the engine gets warm. If the CEL came on, then you should have a stored code. You'll want to run the KOER code pull (key on engine running) not just KOEO which will give you different results.
 
I get it at idle and when moving. The reason I thought it would have to do with power because it runs fine with normal psi but once it drops the car turns into mush lol. I changed the TPS yesterday because I figured that might be why its slugging but the CEL turned off and it still slugs :( So now I don't have a CEL. For the power I'm thinking the next thing is the pickup coil in the dizzy but I'm not sure.
 
Power turns to mush? Is it misfiring?

Yeah it just loses power. Saturday I got everything back together. Fired the car and it ran really good. High oil PSI, had power, no misfiring, timing was good. So I took it for a test drive and it ran really good. Had power, oil PSI was were it always is. So my dad took it out afterwards. Car stalled when put into reverse. Than into drive. Than CEL came on. Oil PSI dropped. Car lost all power. Like it was struggling to even gain speed. Now the car has a rough start and even as it warms up the oil PSI is low.

And nope. All spark plug wires are in correct spot. I've had my dad double check everything for timing and misfiring. I'm following the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order.

I'm not sure if my mech temp gauge is broke but it goes from 160ish to 270 in matter of minutes. So i'm not sure if maybe the car is getting so hot its burning the oil out? I'm not to sure if that's possible
 
BUMP:

Did a Cylinder Balance Test today and it came back with number 7. So I checked number 7 and noticed the spark plug boot was sitting on the header so I switched it around with the dizzy and did it again and it came back good. So I'm gonna get new spark plug wires soon. Than I did a water change to see if that would help burp the system and help it keep cool. After about 5 mins it started dumping rainbow water. I dipped my finger in and it doesn't feel weird or smell weird. But there is white smoking coming from the engine when its been idling for a little bit.

I'm really confused on what's wrong with this dam car lol :bang:
 
You're going to want to stop driving it altogether before you need bearings and a cam too. As mentioned, if the oil is milky, you're leaking coolant into it. Which could be head gasket or lower intake. Mismatched / mis-torqued gasket, warped or cracked heads are worst case scenarios. Leakdown test time.
 
By driven I mean I think I fixed something and take it for a test drive to replicate problem and within a minute of driving the original problem happens again lol. I'll start a leak down test this weekend to try and pin point the problem. Warped/cracked heads shouldn't be a problem as I just bought them a 2 weeks ago and car hasn't really moved since put on. I'll write back with what the leak down test shows!

Edit: This is coffee color right?
 

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A little tough to tell from the picture but it looks milky. Be especially suspicious if the oil level is higher than when you last checked. Open the drain plug and you'll know right away, the coolant settles beneath the oil. Which is why I suggest not driving it (even a test drive -- or even starting it) -- you'll be pumping pure coolant as lubrication since the pickup is at the bottom of the pan, and you can wipe the bearings in seconds.
 
An easy way is to pull dipstick, put a little oil on exhaust manifold when warm, it will steam if theirs water content in oil. You said you installed new/ used heads. Pull the heads, send them to a machine shop that can pressure test for cracks on aluminum heads. It sounds like you have a cracked head, or installed a head gasket improper. When you pull apart motor, inspect cylinder walls for cracks, inspect each combustion chamber on each head. One of the combustion chambers could have a small hole or crack in it. Sorry pal, but it's tear down time.


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I'm not running coolant right now. Its straight water since I was gonna get an oil change after I got the heads on but that ain't happening lol.

I'll start the tear down soon. I need to get a new compression test set since mine doesn't fit in my gt40p heads :(. I wanna know which I'm replacing so I know if it was my mess up or was something wrong with the heads. It's just so weird that I bought these heads because on my old ones after I replaced the gaskets I was having the same issues I'm having now. The engine was good for straight test. These heads I just got from windycity they came machined and everything for me. So if I blew another gasket I'd have no idea why it blew :/