oil pump driveshaft

Ranchero5.0 said:
302 shaft is 1/4" socket to prime, 351 shafts are 5/16".

One stupid point... Is it by any chance a FMS oil pump shaft with the hex sections in a round body (sorry 'bout the description it sucks), not hex allthe way like the stocker? If so then you need to cut about 3/8" off the end of the distributor shaft. The TFI style distributor shaft is longer than the early style distributors and when FMS designed the headvy duty part they made it to he old spec. Big thread on here a couple years ago about it. Ford told the guy to cut thre tip off. If you have an old carb dist laying around slide it in and check it out.

Jamie


hmmmm interesting, it is rounded though for sure and it is 1/4 on the side i was priming so i know it is the right shaft just up side down. i don't know about cutting the dizzy though. any links to this?
 
also looking at the summit catalog i see that there is the silver one and the black one, the black one says its for the 68-86 302 and the silver one is for 87-95 302


i definetly have the black one, cause i can pull it up alot, so i can see that it is rounded in the middle and not silver
 
May be the problem afterall. Also if you can manage it, stick a screwdriver or vernier caliper down the hole and try to measure the hex section of the pump drive shaft and compare it to the distributor hole.

The guy with the problem way back didn't want to cut his off either, ended up asking everyone and anyone. I was a nay sayer about cutting it and got proved wrong. Once cut off it slid right in.

Jamie
 
theres a local shop (that i trust now more than this other one that did my motor, i kionda found them after the fact) they deal with ford racing stuff, i think maybe i will head down there tommorow and see what they have to say........ i really don't wanna pull the motor again.


thanks for that info it may have saved my day
 
With regards to cutting the end of the dist, no problem. After spending about 40min with the patient folks at Napa I realized this was my only option. Just make a mark and cut. I will look for the pics tonight if you want them.
 
ok i will resolve this thread.

The drive shaft is an ARP drive shaft, and it has an arrow on it that says "UP" and it was upside down the retainer was on the pump side allowing me to pull the driveshaft almost all the way up.

so i'll do a little write up here about changing an oil pump with a canton pan and main girdle. bassically you need a cherry picker. remove the fan but the shroud can stay put, just kinda leave it resting in there. Lift the motor a bit and unblot the motor mount to block bolts. then unblot the tranny mount from the crossmember, and remove the two bolts that hold the trans crossmember to the frame, and place a jack at the very back end of the tranny and lower it down a bit and continue to lift the motor till you feel you have enough room to drop the pan abit. then drain the oil (we didn't drain it all just enough so it wouldn't splash around on us) undo all the bolts on the pan and slowy lower the pan and kinda wiggle it backwards. you should be able to get at the two bolts that hold the pump on to the block with a 9/16 wrench and get a socket onto the pickup to pump bolts then lower the pump and there is enough room to squeeze it out we just took the pump out and installed new gaskets. and fliped the driveshaft around (dammit)
then just reverse the above steps and it should be good