oil pump

65notch · Oct 3, 2006

what oil pump do you guys run? and on what setup? im need to get a new oil pump(cam went flat) but im not sure if i should get a high vol., high pres., or just a standard pump. i have a late 60s 289 block with the edelbrock rpm package. its a daily driver, manual trans. thanks

or is it even necessary to change the pump? i know i should but how necessary?

-jeff

67Dylan · Oct 3, 2006

If the pump isn't broken, meaning it mantains good pressure, and no metal shavings went thru it, then don't replace it. If you need to replace it, then a standard pump will work. You don't need a high volume or high pressure pump.

65notch · Oct 3, 2006

67Dylan said:
If the pump isn't broken, meaning it mantains good pressure, and no metal shavings went thru it, then don't replace it. If you need to replace it, then a standard pump will work. You don't need a high volume or high pressure pump.

i dont know if anything went through it...i really dont feel liking pulling the pan and pump just to check it...the engine is in the car still.

Rusty67 · Oct 4, 2006

I would recomend a high volume pump that pushes regular pressure.

brin0357 · Oct 4, 2006

Defintely go high volume whenever you can. You dont want high pressure, bead blast the bearings hehe.

SoCalCruising · Oct 4, 2006

There is a potential problem with hi-vol pumps. They are harder to rotate and place a bigger burden on the oil pump drive shaft and distributor. This has been known to take out the distributor shaft (which drives the oil pump drive shaft). This is the case if you have normal bearing clearances. If you run loose clearances, the pressure won't be as high and the drive will be more like normal. Probably you run normal clearances, though. I run a standard volume pump and synthetic oil, which I think is the right combo on a SBF.

D.Hearne · Oct 4, 2006

SoCalCruising said:
There is a potential problem with hi-vol pumps. They are harder to rotate and place a bigger burden on the oil pump drive shaft and distributor. This has been known to take out the distributor shaft (which drives the oil pump drive shaft). This is the case if you have normal bearing clearances. If you run loose clearances, the pressure won't be as high and the drive will be more like normal. Probably you run normal clearances, though. I run a standard volume pump and synthetic oil, which I think is the right combo on a SBF.

Ditto If you've got a high mileage motor with loose tolerances, run a high volume. Std volume with tight clearances. High pressure std volume also works, that's what I've got in the 390 in my 68 Merc. It's got 30 lbs at idle hot and 60-70 lbs at speed. The 5.0 in my Ranger's got a std volume and it runs about the same pressures with tighter clearances. Which ever you decide, invest in a heavy duty pump drive. Especially with a small block.

zookeeper · Oct 5, 2006

I've also been down the high-pressure pump road in the past with very bad results. I ran one in my '65 fastback only to learn the hard way that the extra strain it places on the oil pump drive shaft. The bad thing is, the motor still runs after the killer pump stops! High volume and high pressure pumps are not necessary on the street and actually cause the motor to make less horsepower, since they cause more parasitic power losses.

66Runt · Oct 5, 2006

How do you plan on changing the pump without pulling the pan?

When a cam goes flat, all that metal circulates through the system, especially with poor filters that leak past the filter media (like Fram).
You can pull your cross member and drop the pan that way. At least you can pull the rod and main caps to check your bearings.
If it was my engine, I wouldn't even consider running it without a complete dissassembly, inspection and thorough cleaning.

Or just run a high volume pump, with all that swarf in there the tolerances should get loose pretty quick

truck90278 · Oct 6, 2006

Over a lot of years, I have used the high volume oil pump without any problems. I would suggest upgrading the oil pump drive shaft with a heavy duty item.

Rusty67 · Oct 6, 2006

truck90278 said:
Over a lot of years, I have used the high volume oil pump without any problems. I would suggest upgrading the oil pump drive shaft with a heavy duty item.

A heavy duty drive shaft for the oil pump should be put in regaurdless of what you are using. SBF motors eat those stock ones. Most people call it barber shoping I think. The drive shaft looks like a barber shop pole that hasn't been painted. Considering a beefy oil pump drive shaft is like 20 bux its a shame not to put one in.

blue65coupe · Oct 6, 2006

65notch, I just completed the 289 rebuild in my '65. Performer package, beefed up heads, etc. You don't need high volume. Standard Melling pump from Autozone...$8.00. If you go high volume there is also a chance you'll have to get a different oil pan to fit. With that said, these engines are so easy to pull I would pull it and tear it down for inspection. At least on the bottom end. Get someone that knows what they're doing and it is a weekend job.

Max Power · Oct 6, 2006

The melling website discusses high volume pumps pretty effectively in their FAQ section. I went high volume on my 393, but if I had to do it over again, I am not sure I would again. No ill effects, just not very necessary for my driving.

tos · Oct 6, 2006

I got my high volume from Ford racing (I think) and it came with a hardened shaft. It looks Identicle to the OEM so there wasnt any fitment problems however I have not ran the motor yet so I cant say it was a good or bad choice. I'll know in the spring when its all done.

BullittStangV8 · Oct 6, 2006

I've heard that high volume standard pressure pumps are a good idea for stroker motors, along with a high capacity pan. Truth? Wives tale?

1320stang · Oct 6, 2006

If you want to run a blueprinted pump, try Precision Oil Pumps. Tell Doug what you have and he'll tell you what you need and won't sell you what you don't. He may even just tell you to get a Melling from your local parts store and that you don't need a blueprinted pump. He also carries billet drives. His pumps are safety wired, he also carries ARP studs for you pump if you're anal.

http://precisionoilpumps.com/

C0V3R · Oct 6, 2006

I agree about the oil pump drive shafts. Put in a stronger one - I just broke mine on a new motor.

zookeeper · Oct 6, 2006

That brings up a good point, which is wht do you really need? I believe in the 10lbs of pressure per every 1000rpms and have yet to have an oil-related failure. I'd bet street-only cars could even get away with less. I also think keeping the sump covered with oil at all times is very important, regardless of pressure. What do you guys think is enough oil pressure on a street car?

LUCAFU1 · Oct 7, 2006

stocker

Max Power · Oct 7, 2006

Speaking of hardened shafts, I have a piece of old valve seal get into my pump, which locked it up. Instead of my hardened shaft breaking, the dizzy kept spinning and I stripped the teath off the dizzy gear AND the cam. Not fun.

And no, those roll pins in the dizzy gear do not always shear.

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